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My 1995 2.5 tdi 102 often does a fair impression of a Massey Ferguson,accompanied by a whaft of grey smoke. I want to try the old EGR delete trick, but it appears as though all I really need do is blank it off?
From what I can see, the shiny and expensive EGR delete kits are just a dummy egr pipe and a pair of blanking plates, so why not just make a pair of blanking plates and plug up the hose?
:*
 

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My 1995 2.5 tdi 102 often does a fair impression of a Massey Ferguson,accompanied by a whaft of grey smoke. I want to try the old EGR delete trick, but it appears as though all I really need do is blank it off?
From what I can see, the shiny and expensive EGR delete kits are just a dummy egr pipe and a pair of blanking plates, so why not just make a pair of blanking plates and plug up the hose?
:*
Wow a '95 ACV!

Easiest to just fit two thick (pref stainless steel) plates, one top one bottom. Also remove and clean out the EGR valve itself (new gasket for the base of that too) ................. job done T:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
But why bother cleaning the egr? Why not just leave it out? with both ends blanked off, its only function would then be as somewhere for the vacuum hose to connect to. Surely all I'd really need do is plug the hose?
 

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But why bother cleaning the egr? Why not just leave it out? with both ends blanked off, its only function would then be as somewhere for the vacuum hose to connect to. Surely all I'd really need do is plug the hose?
No you are only blanking off the recirculation pipe you still need the EGR valve. It's the exhaust gas recirculation you are trying to get rid of, so it does not cause a build up in the valve itself.

Personally I would not go down the valve delete kit route either :(
 

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Discussion Starter #5
But then flow through the egr valve will be blocked off, so the egr valve will function, but no flow will pass? I still don't see the need for the egr valve actuator, unless it is there to fool the ECU?
 

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But then flow through the egr valve will be blocked off, so the egr valve will function, but no flow will pass? I still don't see the need for the egr valve actuator, unless it is there to fool the ECU?
You need to take a look to try and understand what you need to do.

You block both ends of the recirculation pipe (really just the EGR valve end would be fine), to stop the spent exhaust gas recirculating into the engine intake ................ you are NOT blocking the valve itself. The EGR valve delete kit effectively just replaces the valve with a polished alloy pipe, and you are spending money you don't need to.

Exhaust Gas Recirculation reroutes a prescribed amount of exhaust gas back into the intake to be drawn into the cylinders to help reduce NOx emissions. Exhaust gas is fairly inert meaning it's already spent and does not help to create more power or combustion but it does help cool the combustion chamber which helps reduce NOx emissions. Whilst the theory of the cooling sounds great, it does introduce a good deal of 'gunk' into the valve itself, and ultimately into the engine; this is what you are trying to avoid T:
 

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Your EGR valve is only opened at slow or engine idling. Blanking or deleting the EGR system does give any usable improvement in engine power output, or efficiency. What it will do is give you one less thing to go wrong however your van will smoke more on idle. If you really feel is the way to go just yank the EGR solinoid job done as its always closed unless actuated by the solinoid.
 

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Your EGR valve is only opened at slow or engine idling. Blanking or deleting the EGR system does give any usable improvement in engine power output, or efficiency. What it will do is give you one less thing to go wrong however your van will smoke more on idle. If you really feel is the way to go just yank the EGR solinoid job done as its always closed unless actuated by the solinoid.

You may be correct in the no MORE power or efficiency, however if you have done it (and cleaned out the gunk that it caused in the 'inlet elbow') then what you will achieve is the improved flow of air into the inlet manifold, back to being comparble with when it was new and clean, and if you blank the EGR inlet then you will prevent it gunking up again.

When I cleaned mine it was that gunked up I estimate it was a reduction in area of 40% on the cross section, in some places 7mm thick :eek: (now my van WAS a city delivery van so probably spent longer than normal at idle or low revs, but it was shocking the amount of gunk in there)

After cleaning I thought the engine pick up was slightly more responsive, but this could be my imagination.

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #12
How about if I clean up the EGR and then re-instate it? I'm after reducing the smoke and the tractor like noises the van makes at lower engine speeds...
 

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Wow a '95 ACV!

Easiest to just fit two thick (pref stainless steel) plates, one top one bottom. Also remove and clean out the EGR valve itself (new gasket for the base of that too) ................. job done T:
That is what I did with my T4 (also cleaned the EGR but didn't really need to as it never got refitted as no point if blanking it off) :)

One word of warning from my own experience doing this ... I bought a kit from eBay from a seller with top feedback - plates and gaskets - and after my first extended journey (>300 miles in a oner) one of the gaskets burnt away. Sounded like the exhaust manifold had blown until a VW tech had a look and spotted the slightly wobbly blanking plate immediately ;)
 

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That is what I did with my T4 (also cleaned the EGR but didn't really need to as it never got refitted as no point if blanking it off) :)

One word of warning from my own experience doing this ... I bought a kit from eBay from a seller with top feedback - plates and gaskets - and after my first extended journey (>300 miles in a oner) one of the gaskets burnt away. Sounded like the exhaust manifold had blown until a VW tech had a look and spotted the slightly wobbly blanking plate immediately ;)
Yeh buy cheap you get cheap, had my plates made locally from stainless a million years ago. I opted to keep the EGR valve as I wanted to retain the anti shudder valve ................ for obvious reasons; and there is no downside T:
 

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How much extra idle smoke does blanking the egr valve add
None. Furthermore, I deactivated the EGR-valve just by cutting the vacuum hose and plug it with a 6 mm rod, after cleaning the the EGR-valve. The spring of the EGR-valve was pretty firm, so I didn't think blanking plates were necessary. I had a look at the EGR-valve a year after I deactivated it and it was still very clean.
 

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How about if I clean up the EGR and then re-instate it? I'm after reducing the smoke and the tractor like noises the van makes at lower engine speeds...
Regardless if the EGR is working correctly, choked or blanked off it should not smoke at idle, there’s something else wrong and as for sounding like a tractor, the 2.5 Tdi sounds like a tractor it’s 1st gen Tdi like a Transit Di if it doesn’t why? On the other hand has someone been messing with it as worn belt rollers etc will retard the timing, First stop check the timing too far advanced it will make a hell of a din, worn injectors will give you smoke & less noise.

Of course I have no idea what I’m talking about as I’m running around France looking for a pump belt tensioner, I have bodged with a washer to stop the belt coming off.

note; forget about VW dealers having any parts in stock for T4’s
 
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