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EGR Pipe Leak

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11K views 23 replies 9 participants last post by  triffic  
#1 ·
Hi there,

My van is slowly poisoning me (T5 2.5TDi) and it looks like the joint where the EGR pipe connects to the manifold is leaking. I'm looking at replacing the pipe, gasket, and pipe clamp but would rather avoid the extortionate VW dealer prices. I've tried everywhere but cant source them anywhere. I know the pipe part number is 070 131 521 AF but it seems almost impossible to find the correct pipe required. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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#3 ·
You can buy just the pipe for about 40 quid. Only problem is that is in Turkey! Transporter Transporter T5 2.5 Tdı Axd - Axe Motor Egzoz Geri Dönüş Bağlantı Borusu 070 131 521 H 070 131 521 AF

You can blank it off (assuming yours is an AXE or AXD engine code) without causing any engine lights but I have left mine because I tow a lot and I don't want to risk the higher exhaust gas temperatures. You can buy or make a simple blanking plate which fits on the two bolt flange between the EGR/changeover valve unit and the end of your pipe.
 
#4 ·
Thanks for the reply's. I didn't want to blank it off as I'd probably only get another problem with the van being a bit old and high mileage. T5 TDI - I don't know how you found that but top marks! I ended up going to Halfords on Saturday and getting some exhaust putty. I put some lightly on the joint and it seems to have stopped it leaking... for now. Failing that I might have to consider blanking the damn thing off. Thanks again.
 
#7 ·
Unfortunately it will come back since exhaust putty is a temporary solution. Still it's bought you some time and stopped you being gassed! You could set up an ebay search (go to advanced from the normal search) using the exact part number. That way if any mention of it comes up in the future they will email you the listing.
 
#9 ·
Hi there,

2.5 TDI AJT.
I appreciate you might not want to do it, but...
I just replaced the bulky VW EGR unit (c/w shut-off valve), with a lovely EGR delete unit off ebay.
Included in the kit is the blanking off cap and gasket for the manifold.
If you delete only the recirculation pipe and not the EGR unit, you (obvs) only need one blanking cap as the new EGR delete unit that bolts onto the inlet manifold doesn't have the recirculation pipe connection.
Not had it MoTd yet but I know plenty of folk who've got an EGR deleted T4 through without question.
There is no difference in power and it seems to run a bit less smoky. EGRs cool the combustion chamber by starving the chamber of oxygen - by adding a little spent exhaust gas instead!. I hate the idea of running a diesel engine cooler than it was originally designed to run - and introducing soot into the inlet!
Temp gauge needle is in the same place as it was before deleting. Never runs 'hot'.
As the old EGR equipment was still like new after cleaning it all up (was very very very dirty), I put the old EGR unit and recirculation pipe on ebay for 6 weeks, but that was a complete waste of time, so it all went in the bin.
It's all very straightforward for the DIY mechanic as it's easy to access without moving the front panel.
 
#10 ·
Hi there,

2.5 TDI AJT.
I appreciate you might not want to do it, but...
I just replaced the bulky VW EGR unit (c/w shut-off valve), with a lovely EGR delete unit off ebay.
Included in the kit is the blanking off cap and gasket for the manifold.
If you delete only the recirculation pipe and not the EGR unit, you (obvs) only need one blanking cap as the new EGR delete unit that bolts onto the inlet manifold doesn't have the recirculation pipe connection.
Not had it MoTd yet but I know plenty of folk who've got an EGR deleted T4 through without question.
There is no difference in power and it seems to run a bit less smoky. EGRs cool the combustion chamber by starving the chamber of oxygen - by adding a little spent exhaust gas instead!. I hate the idea of running a diesel engine cooler than it was originally designed to run - and introducing soot into the inlet!
Temp gauge needle is in the same place as it was before deleting. Never runs 'hot'.
As the old EGR equipment was still like new after cleaning it all up (was very very very dirty), I put the old EGR unit and recirculation pipe on ebay for 6 weeks, but that was a complete waste of time, so it all went in the bin.
It's all very straightforward for the DIY mechanic as it's easy to access without moving the front panel.
Thanks for the advice, the problem was that it was leaking where the EGR pipe meets the exhaust manifold and as far as I know the blank is at the other end between the EGR pipe and the EGR valve, so it would have still been leaking into the cabin. Not sure if you can actually blank off the exhaust manifold pipe that the EGR pipe connects to with the clip? That would do the job.
 
#13 ·
The 2.5 AJT engine is only on a T4... You can buy more elegant EGR deletes for T5's from the likes of Darkside. The OP's van has no DPF.

Generally EGR deletes aren't recommended with DPF unless you delete that as well and it will need to be deleted in the ECU as well.
DPFs - where fitted - are only there to reduce the increased output of soot that is now caused as a result of running a diesel engine cooler than it was originally designed - caused by the f***ing EGR system!

EGR and DPF systems are an abomination of afterthought engineering all in the interest of 'saving' humans.
Diesels should be run as practicably hot as possible - not like a petrol engine.

That's why some 2.5TDIs - like my T4 - now have the intercooler removed as well.
 
#14 ·
Now there's the thing, if when blanking where the EGR pipe meets the manifold you use a gasket, why is there no gasket normally at this joint? This totally confused me when I initially took it apart. Surely without a gasket it would leak gases. The pipes just join together and are held by a clamp???
 
#17 ·
I think I must have missed something. The manifold end is the flared end. Unless you can see an obvious split in the pipe, it must be just the clamp loose or not gripping for some reason. Actually that same joint on my van is leaking slightly. The clamp is loose but the camp bolt is seized so I can't tighten it. I need to replace the clamp and bolt. I hardly use the van these days so I haven't got round to it. 🙂.
 
#21 ·
Hi

sorry I dont check on here very often. I got the blanking kit literally off ebay and the small disc for the manifold the same. I measured the hole and just bought penny washers. I put a bolt through the hole in the washer to block that then use exhaust sealing paste to bond it to your manifold along with the clamp - works great!
 
#23 · (Edited)
EGR valves didnt exist in the good old day and frankly dont do our engines any good! Thye are just to attempt to lower pollution levels. I remove mine as i have see the crud they cause inside many engines - 're burning' exhaust gasses!!!
We may as well add a bag of soot and a few spoons of TAR to our fuel tanks! NASTY things. I would go with the T5 EGR delete kit. They arent a legal requirement and if you need to - put in on for MOT day then take it off again.


My van flies through the MOT without even a MENTION of me having removed the EGR! The emissions are also fine without it. My MPG has vastly increased now with the recirc gone.

This clearly illustrates the damage EGR valves do to a turbo and engine. The VNT ring was LOCKED SOLID with carbon and tar and was only fit for scrap. It cost me a turbo rebuild. EGR's........... SCRAP THEM.🤬:mad:


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#24 ·
They arent a legal requirement
I don't disagree with much of what you say about the evils of EGR valves, but this is factually wrong.

If an EGR valve was fitted from the factory then it is a legal requirement. Perhaps the law is widely flouted, but the fact is that you cannot remove or modify any emissions control devices and then drive the vehicle on the road in the UK legally.

To a certain extent they have made EGR valves a little better than they used to be. Certainly the ones on the 2010-onward CR engines don't seem to be anywhere near as bad at filling the inlet side of the engine with soot and tar. This might be due to the design of the EGR cooler, which seems to block up over the years - but at least that keeps the valve itself from filling with crud and jamming up (always a major problem if it sticks partway open - not so much of an issue in terms of engine power if it blocks shut).