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Also check the wires that run through the bellows in the doors. They are prone to breaking within the rubber bellows.
 

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I know this is an old thread but I have just developed the same issue - no electric mirrors.
Also my owners manual refers to 2 rows of fuses. I have a complete row missing!! By coincidence every T4 I have seen, and that's about 50 have the same issue - only 1 row of fuses.
Perhaps I am mad. All internet searches refer to 2 rows.
 

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Checked the fuse yet? If it's OK, think about this.
It's winter, so your battery might be a bit 'tired' - which made me think that your problem just might be here (see below). I found this (I think) on an American website some time ago (hence Vanagon in the title). Note that it's for a USA/Canada van, so references to driver's side and passenger side will relate to a LHD vehicle. Hope it helps - it did for my '92 Westy. Everything works perfectly… as long as the battery's well charged up A:.
The relevant bit is at the bottom of the article in blue, but it's worth reading it all.
I can't guarantee the accuracy of the article, but as I said - it worked for me.

Mirror Electrical System Explained -
Vanagon (T4) Power Mirror System.

Driver’s side:

There are only two wires that run from the fuse box/chassis through the rubber boot into the driver’s side door for mirror MOVEMENT. The power wire (black/yellow) from pin G1 of the fuse box (12V with ignition switch "ON") goes straight to the mirror control switch in the driver’s door. A ground wire (brown) plugs into the pin on the grounding ring above the fuse box, and goes straight to the driver’s side mirror. At the mirror, the ground wire splits in two and also provides ground for the defroster in the glass. Power for the defroster (white/green) does not go through the switch but straight to the mirror glass for defrost. That circuit is powered by the rear window defroster switch (or mirror defroster switch on European vans, which also power the heaters for screenwash jets if fitted). Mirror defrost comes on whenever the defrost is switched "ON". Three power wires run from the mirror switch to the mirror: black, blue, and white. The power for up/down and left/right are the same two wires, i.e. the black and blue ones. The mirror switch just reverses polarity for reverse direction. There is only ONE motor in the mirror. The additional white positive wire from the switch operates a clutch in the mirror that makes it change axis from left/right to up/down. Whenever you move the switch for up/down motion the white wire goes hot or "ON." It stays cold or "OFF" when operating the mirror left/right. All these wires are part of the drivers side mirror harness, harness #1.

Passenger side:
Three power wires that are part of harness #1 run to the passenger mirror from the mirror switch in the driver’s door. They are blue/black, black, and white. They run through the rubber boot on the driver’s side door pillar and out under the dash near the fuse box. There they plug into the under-dash harness (#2) in which there is an additional brown ground wire for the passenger side mirror. That wire also grounds on the same ground ring above the fuse box. Harness #2 runs all the way across the vehicle under the dash and plugs into harness #3 behind the glove box. That harness runs through the black boot on the passenger door jamb and into the passenger door. The power for up/down and left/right are the same two wires, the blue/black and black ones. The switch just reverses polarity for reverse direction. There is only ONE motor in the mirror. The additional white positive wire from the switch operates a clutch in the mirror that makes it change axis from left/right to up/down. Whenever you move the switch for up/down motion the white wire goes hot or "ON." It stays cold or "OFF" when operating the mirror left/right. Again, the white/green wire is for mirror glass defrosting and has nothing to do with power mirror MOVEMENT.

The whole system:
What is unusual about this system and throws people for a loop is that the black and white wires are COMMON to both mirrors. The black wire may be positive 12V or ground at any given time depending on switch position, up/down, left/right. This will be so at BOTH mirrors simultaneously. Only ONE mirror, the one selected by rotating the switch to “L” or “R,” will get positive 12V or ground on the BLUE or BLUE/BLACK wire, left and right mirror, respectively.
That is not the most confusing part. Anytime EITHER mirror is moved up/down, BOTH mirrors get power to the clutch via the white wire - so both clutches 'click'. That is the crummy thing about this system. I think both clutches being powered creates something of a power drain in the system, and it is one reason these systems commonly need higher-than-usual power to operate. Even when all is perfect with the mirrors, it is not unusual for the system to require more than 12V to operate (with engine running and revved up). That is why on some vehicles the mirrors work fine when driving down the road, but not when sitting still with the engine not running.
 

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Thanks for the reply and it makes useful reading. Further investigations show its possibly the wire going through the rubber bellows in the door hinge. Ive found the insulation cracked and damaged so will repair asap.

I am still annoyed about information regarding the fusebox.
I have checked with other owners and they all have the single row of fuses just like mine.
All info in handbooks and on the net still refers to two rows of fuses!!!
Spoke to VW van centre and a technician said hes only ever seen single row fuse boxes.

Where are these elusive 2 row fuse boxes?
 

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Have you removed the lower panel (that slides forwards from beneath the main unit?)

Just dropping the "cubby hole" down doesn't let you see the bottom row.

BTW, if you have ONE broken wire in the bellows, you'll probably find another 15 or more when you peel the insulation back!

I had to repair 22 when my window switch stopped controlling the passenger side from the drivers!
 

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Sorry to revive a very old thread - but I was hoping somebody may have some more ideas on the above, Basscamp67 thanks for the great info!

I recently fixed my failed O/S mirror - cracked cables in the bellows, usual thing. N/S mirror working fine. I made the repair and hooked it back up - O/S mirror came back to life but moved a little reluctantly, I assume it was because the motor had not been used for many years prior to my ownership. Then, while I worked it around to hopefully free it, it stopped working. The N/S mirror also then stopped responding, so I'm now two mirrors down! I assumed a blown fuse, given the O/S motor seemed to be struggling a bit - but fuse is fine.

I've since checked for power at the fuse box - confirmed. I also have power between blue/black and ground at the switch plug on the O/S harness. I've also tried using them while travelling (re the power note above), still nothing.

I'm sure it's something simple I'm missing due to my fairly basic grasp of the circuit - would be very grateful if someone could point me in the right direction?
 
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