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Discussion Starter #1
My T5 cam with after market electric windows, i have just changed the door cards which came with factory fitted switches, can you wire after market to factory switches.

Thanks

Jamie
 

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Probably not, it depends how the aftermarket ones work, the OE switches work by presenting different resistances to the controller so it knows what to do, they're not just make & break.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Probably not, it depends how the aftermarket ones work, the OE switches work by presenting different resistances to the controller so it knows what to do, they're not just make & break.
Any ideas how to get round this. Currently stuck with door cards with factory fitting holes.
 

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You would need to investigate how the current aftermarket switches work (it will depend on what make it is) and then modify the original switches so that they work in the same way.
 

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You would need to investigate how the current aftermarket switches work (it will depend on what make it is) and then modify the original switches so that they work in the same way.
ok thanks for the advice I will have a look at the specificatons
 

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How many wires go to your aftermarket switches? The OE switch has earth, illumination, plus one wire that goes to the controller which does all the switching via the one wire so there's only one pin out on the switch for that and the earth pin which forms the other leg of the circuit and the earth for the illumination LED.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
How many wires go to your aftermarket switches? The OE switch has earth, illumination, plus one wire that goes to the controller which does all the switching via the one wire so there's only one pin out on the switch for that and the earth pin which forms the other leg of the circuit and the earth for the illumination LED.
passenger side has 4 wires, and drivers side has 8.



179136
 

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140 DSG Shuttle SE full Camper
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You'd have to take the OE switches apart & solder connections direct to the fixed contacts & break the printed circuit board tracks that go from them to earth via the surface mount resistors & somehow get the cables out of the switches & then figure out which ones go where on your aftermarket loom via relays as those aftermarket switches are full load (25 amp) unlike the OE switches which are only designed to carry signal current, so good luck with that!
 

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Flipping this around can you make the OEM switches work to a make and brake operation bypassing the circuit boards.
My motor housing multi plugs 25amp feed is live with the ignition off, ie live all the time, is this correct?
 

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Flipping this around can you make the OEM switches work to a make and brake operation bypassing the circuit boards.
Yes, by doing what I said, on OE switches there's only one pin out and earth for all the switch functions as they stand, up, down, single touch up, single touch down all go via the same one wire.
I imagine it will be far easier to graft the retro fit switches into the new door cards.
 

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Yes, by doing what I said, on OE switches there's only one pin out and earth for all the switch functions as they stand, up, down, single touch up, single touch down all go via the same one wire.
I imagine it will be far easier to graft the retro fit switches into the new door cards.
Still getting my head round this🙄
OEM switch drivers side has four pins.
pin 1= brown with black trace
pin 2= white with green trace
pin 3= grey with blue trace
pin 4= white with red trace
as far as I can make out pins 1 and 2 connect when the drivers window switch is operated
pins 1 and 4 connect when the drivers side passenger door window switch is operated.

The OEM passengers window switch also has 4 pins
pin 1= brown
pin 2= grey with blue trace
pin 3= white with green trace
pin 4= no wire connected
as far as I can make out pins 1 and 3 connect when the passenger switch is operated.

Question is then what do I need to do to make the switches operate the windows without incorporating the circuit boards ie take away the circuit board, I just want them to go up and bloody down ain’t bothered about one touch function.
 

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I don't think it's worth trying to do. The problem that was stated several posts ago is that the high-current switching is done in the circuit board, not the switches. If you try to bypass the circuit board you are probably going to be operating the switches way beyond their designed power rating - so they probably won't last long.
 

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Think we might be getting some crossed wires😭
The problem is not with the switches, I’ve fitted new to both sides, the problem is that all windows operate only once I disconnect the multi plugs feeding the window motors then reconnect them. Bingo everything works as it should, leave for a period of time and bugger the windows stop working😳disconnect and reconnect working😘leave alone not working🙄
Im thinking put in a rocker switch on the constant live feed, turn it off when not needed and turn on when I want to drop my windows, not ideal but at least it gets me operational and I can put me doors and dash back together.
 

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Think we might be getting some crossed wires😭
The problem is not with the switches, I’ve fitted new to both sides, the problem is that all windows operate only once I disconnect the multi plugs feeding the window motors then reconnect them. Bingo everything works as it should, leave for a period of time and bugger the windows stop working😳disconnect and reconnect working😘leave alone not working🙄
Im thinking put in a rocker switch on the constant live feed, turn it off when not needed and turn on when I want to drop my windows, not ideal but at least it gets me operational and I can put me doors and dash back together.
Well that's what you get for hijacking a thread half way through without explaining your problem is different to the OP.
So looking at the Travelinlite circuit diagram, what part of '12 volt positive 25 amp when ignition on' are you struggling with?
 

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Well that's what you get for hijacking a thread half way through without explaining your problem is different to the OP.
So looking at the Travelinlite circuit diagram, what part of '12 volt positive 25 amp when ignition on' are you struggling with?
Simples !!:rolleyes:😃😃😃
 

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Well that's what you get for hijacking a thread half way through without explaining your problem is different to the OP.
So looking at the Travelinlite circuit diagram, what part of '12 volt positive 25 amp when ignition on' are you struggling with?
Think you’ll find the question was should OEM set up have a constant live??
🙄SIMPLES
Thought forums were for helping out fellow owners, clearly not in your case, A
 

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Think you’ll find the question was should OEM set up have a constant live??
Think you'll find it wasn't, but as you ask, the only live wire at any time at the switches is the grey with a blue trace which drives the red led switch illumination, switching is done via the negative, as for at the motor, I'll look at the circuit diagram in my Haynes manual.
 
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