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790 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Been meaning to fit them for some time now as the seats have been in for nearly 6 months (and me a copper tooI:)

Anyway, this isnt meant to be a definitive "HOW TO", Just how I did mine. And to reiterate, my belts are Mazda Bongo, not VW.

Right first thing is to asses whats there already. Two cavernous holes, where the belts mechanisms are housed and a hole on each C post where the tops of the belts loops should bolt to.

With it being a van, there are no captive nuts in place apart from the lower cavern on the driver side. This had a standard 7/16 unf nut already welded on by VW.

The solution I used was to make some plates up, with m12 nuts welded on them. Like this -

Seat belt bolts are all 7/16 UNF but I decided as it was custom, it wouldnt hurt to use M12. The plates are just 4mm steel cut to 130mm long.

Now the fun(?) part. These plates now have to be put inside the C post where the top holes are.
The only real way of doing it is to thread a string/cable/wire down the C post and pull the plate up into place.

I have read that a lot of people thread the cable down and then through the captive nut with a nut tied on the back.
Thats ok til you get it in place, but then how do put the bolt through, with the string in the hole.

Heres what I did.

First I drilled a small (8mm?) hole in the C post above the mouting hole. I then threaded down a length of speaker cable.
You need something a bit stiff so you can push it down. -

Then when it came out of the bottom, I taped the plate to it with a little bit of gaffa tape. You dont need to go mad with the tape, just enough to hold it on firmly.

Then carefully pull the plate up throught the C post -

Once the plate is near the top, look through the mounting hole until you see the threaded nut on the plate. Then put the M12 bolt through and tighten up.

You will only be able to get a 20mm bolt into the drivers side C post as there is some sort of strengthening bar inside but you can get a 30mm into the passenger side.

Now, if you yank the cable hard enough, it will come loose and the plate will stay put.

This ok now, until you remove the bolts, then the plates will drop out.
To prevent this, I drilled a small hole either side of the bolt (through the c post and the plate) and fitted two small self tappers.
Now the plates wont drop out and the self tappers will be carpeted over and hidden.

Lastly, on the passenger side lower mount, I simply made another plate with a nut welded on (7/16th nut on a 4mm plate 30x30mm). This was simply held in place with araldite to prevent it dropping when bolt removed.

I hope the above helps somebody.

Incidentally, if anybody is doing the Bongo seat conversion, try and get the belts aswell. Mine came with the seat and are plenty long enough with the seat fully forwards and back.

Will get some better pics tomorrow.

335 Posts
great idea mate im now in the process of thinking about how to get my seat belts fitted so you didnt weld at all then? how did you get the self tappers into the plate? have you got any photo of the bottom fitment?do you get any rattling from the top mount?

986 Posts
Me again,

take a look at your seat belt thread, posted a link up that might help. Done in the same way but used plates you can buy from just campers or on ebay.

Should sort you out T:
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