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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, Its a 1991 1.9d 1x, It started playing up about a week ago and got really lumpy and poor power when setting off and took a while to start running correctly etc. then yesterday it would not start at all. Anyway I checked the cambelt which was in relatively good condition apart from it being loose. i then checked the timing and it was way out, removed belt to adjust cam and fuel pump. connected it back up and went to turn crank pulley by hand and just before the first revolution it just locked up, same if i turn it backwards? Any ideas?
 

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Two things if your sure you have lined everything up correctly,either your crank drive pulley has sheared and slipped on the crankshaft or a valve is already bent and staying in the down position and touching the piston as you turn the engine,remove your cam cover and make sure the cam followers are against the cam lobes,if theres a big gap between the follower and cam on one or two of them you probably have a bent valve,if all looks ok in there,take the crank cam belt drive pulley off and look at the square locating slot to see if its sheared and spun on the crankshaft
 

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Static valve timing is out belt on wrong check all the timing marks can you check tdc on number 1 piston then check cam position
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for ideas, its not sounding too good though! I will have a look tomorrow with fresh eyes. cheers!
 

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Forget timing marks try n locate tdc on number 1 cyl look at cam when firing on 1 the cam lobes will be at 10 to 2 ( thinking on a clock face ) on num4 the lobes will be pointing Down touching followers equally .you might have to remove injector or glow plug to get tdc
 

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Forget timing marks try n locate tdc on number 1 cyl look at cam when firing on 1 the cam lobes will be at 10 to 2 ( thinking on a clock face ) on num4 the lobes will be pointing Down touching followers equally .you might have to remove injector or glow plug to get tdc
For tdc there's a plastic plug or might just be a hole by now if its missing,there's a small machined point in there and on the flywheel is a machined V type mark,aligned they indicate TDC,cam cover off there is a flat grove machined in the back of the cam,slot a piece of flat bar or a small spanner across it so it touches the top of the head where the cam cover sits,that is the proper method,don't do it by eye as guessing will trash your valves
 

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For tdc there's a plastic plug or might just be a hole by now if its missing,there's a small machined point in there and on the flywheel is a machined V type mark,aligned they indicate TDC,cam cover off there is a flat grove machined in the back of the cam,slot a piece of flat bar or a small spanner across it so it touches the top of the head where the cam cover sits,that is the proper method,don't do it by eye as guessing will trash your valves
Forgot to say the plug or hole is in the top of the bell housing just by where the heater pipe comes out of the head T:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yes that's what I did, found TDC on flywheel then locked cam off on groove firing at no1 10 to 2. I Took cam pulley off and it appears to be ok, ie not sheared. just need to now check that the cam followers are all touching the cam. thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Just checked for any gaps in between the cam and followers with feeler gauges for possible bent valves and they all seem ok, no gaps? So just to summarise, flywheel lined up TDC, cam locked in position with flat bar at end, pump fixed in hole with a bolt, Removed crank pulley and square notch on the end is ok and not sheered. Cam belt re fitted and tensioner applied. before putting belt back on flywheel turned no problem. Once put back together could not turn a full revolution before lock up. I did think when it locked that it felt and sounded like whatever was locking was near the gear box/flywheel but that was not definitive it was just the impression I got. As gears change ok and it was in neutral! :confused:
 

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Are you sure you have the right mark on the flywheel ?,perhaps your going to have to remove an injector and with a thin brazing rod or similar push that down the hole to "feel" the piston rising and falling as you turn the engine,you might then see another mark line up on the flywheel T:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ive still not managed to get to the bottom of it although I have come to the conclusion that the flywheel timing mark that were fundamental to the whole endeavour is the wrong one! The one I found was in between the flywheel teeth, looking at most of the posts on flywheel marks it looks like I choose the wrong position. It also looks like it is a common issue the inability to locate the TDC mark... So it now looks like starting again and finding someway to clean the flywheel while turning it, see if that highlights any new marks! Anyway, thank you for all your help, although I have got nowhere I feel like some progress has been made!
 
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