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Discussion Starter #1
I am hoping that someone can give me a bit of guidance on what I should do next.

I have a Waeco CR50 fridge, and I have been having a few problems with it running on the leisure battery. The red light kept flashing which I believe means that there is not enough power supply to the fridge to make it run, but the fidge light is on (don't have the manual).

When I hook up to the mains the fridge runs fine. My initial thoughts from investigating the issue was it needed a new leisure battery (was about 3 years old). I purchased one from upspex (good service), 110amp and I installed it on Saturday morning having had it on charge since I received it. I had hooked up the van the nigfht before to ensure that the fridge was already at the temperature so as not to drain the battery doing this.

Went out in the van on Saturday, stopped about 10.30 and swithced it to the leisure battery. I had also switched the fridge down from setting max to 5, again to reduce battery consumption. By about 2 pm, when i went to the fridge the red light was flashing again, showing not enough power to the fridge.

Surely the battery shold last longer than this? The battery indicator light on the PMS shows that there is plenty of charge in the battery. When I took the battery out today to put it back on charge, I check the voltage and it was reading just over 12v.

I believe that the fridge needs 12v to run properly, and the battery said it still had 12v output so it should not have been a problem.

What else can I check?
Could the fridge be broken (but does not make sense as it runs on hook-up)? Can I get spares for the fridge?

I know that there is something about the amps on a battery and only being able to use about 50% of them, but with a new 110amp battery, and from what I have read there is a draw of about 5amps per hour for the fridge, this should still leave me about 10 hours of running time. Or are my calc's rubbish:*

Any help with this would be great. IF I am not able to reslove this myself, can anyone recommend someone in Hampshire to help me?

Thanks in advanceT:

Paul
 

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Have you checked there is no dodgy connection on the 12V supply and also is the 12v supply thick enough wire - if its a long run then you will get a voltage drop which might cause the problem... but of a guess though!

You could run a thicker wire direct from the battery to the fridge to test if this make a difference
 

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sounds about right to me.
you havent done anything wrong your just flattening your leisure battery
4 hours of running time is enough to flatten it - you will bugger up your battery if you keep running it flat tho.
just run it off split charge and plug in, after this keep the door closed and all will be ok.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
sounds about right to me.
you havent done anything wrong your just flattening your leisure battery
4 hours of running time is enough to flatten it - you will bugger up your battery if you keep running it flat tho.
just run it off split charge and plug in, after this keep the door closed and all will be ok.
Only 4 hours??? Really?

Sorry but not sure what you mean by 'run it off split charge and plug in' - if we go to a campsite we normally have electric hookup so not a problem, is this what you mean by running it off the split charger? But when we are just going out for the day, there is no hookup so it has to fun from the leisure.

I ubderstand that running the battery flat will knacker it, but there is no inication that the battery is flat, or even low.

Once I had taken some stuff out of the fridge, it was left with the door closed and not opened again for a few hours. I am guessing that once it reaches it's temp it stops drawing power, and just cuts in when needed.

Would it be worth pulling the fridge out and seeing what the voltage is to the fridge? Am I correct in that it needs 12v to run the fridge, and if it drops belown this the fridge won't work?
 

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The waeco fridges are particularly sensitive to voltage drop. I think they cut out at 12.2v, which isnt that much of a drop on a poor battery with wire on the thin side.
I may have this slightly wrong, but I seem to recall a waeco engineer saying that for each meter of cable run, use 1mm sq cable then add 2mm, so a 4m run will need to be in 6mm cable.
If your getting a normal reading at the pms, I would suspect the wire thickness or a dodgy connection are at fault.
 

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Split Charge: Off vehicle alternator via relay
Plug In: Off 240v campsite via 12v battery charger

To be honest and please dont take this the wrong way, but i cant think of a single reason why you would run a CR50 off a leisure battery alone. If you wish to do this you could do with the gas alternatives, the battery just wont keep up.

I run a CR50 and this is how i do it;

I freeze a couple of plastic water bottles before i do my journey. I keep them in the cr50 freezer when running off split charge or plug in. When the fridge is off i just take the bottle out the freezer and put them in the fridge. Cold Beer every time.

Hope this helps.
Ian
 

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The Waeco CR50 consumes around 1.4 amps per hour on average, so using the correctly rated cable with a 110 ah battery it should in theory run for approx.78hrs. But they are designed to cut out at 10.2volts, so in reality you would probably get around 8-9 hrs constant running from a fully charged 110ah battery. Would definitely check your cable rating/thickness.
 

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The Waeco CR50 consumes around 1.4 amps per hour on average, so using the correctly rated cable with a 110 ah battery it should in theory run for approx.78hrs. But they are designed to cut out at 10.2volts, so in reality you would probably get around 8-9 hrs constant running from a fully charged 110ah battery. Would definitely check your cable rating/thickness.
Assuming you are getting 2v drop due to your cable diameter then at 60% capacity your fridge would cut out. The 2v drop would take th batter below the 10.3 minimum. 2v is quite possible when the fridge starts up due to the current surge. ( I'm guessing upwards of 10A on start-up) A leisure battery should only be used down to 50% of its capacity
 

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ok firstly make sure batteries are fully charged it can take a couple of days if you have a small charger to fully charge, a full battery voltage should be 12.8+v when left 30 mins to settle.

now possibly the cables a little on the small side but it pull on average 4amps lets say it 5amps (60watts) for a little bit of play and dont need massive cables for example you headlight pull 60w and cables are small compare them to fridge in size.

I would expect that fridge to run at least 10-15hrs because batteries dont give out full capacity, either the battery is not fully charged or there is a problem with the battery i would guess
 

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I normally get well over 2 days and as much as 3 days from mine on setting 4. This is on an 85AH battery and with everything that I put in it is either frozen or chilled right down before it goes in. I usually whack it right up to setting 7 if we are on a long drive and drop it down as soon as we arrive.
 

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but if the surge takes it down to below 10.4 volts the red light will come on.

I left a fairly detailed email on the Waeco support site & they replied by leaving me a voicemail that went along the lines: "The fridge can draw up to 20a at startup, so the cable needs to be sufficient to protect against volt drop. There should be no risk of damage to the compressor as it is protected, but it will need the correct voltage to function properly. We recommend measuring the total distance from battery to fridge in metres, double the figure and use that number as your cable cross section", I.E, 2M x 2 = 4mm cable.
page 9 of the manual....here
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ian T5 - no offense taken. I want to run it off the leisure battery so that when i go out for the day, when I get back to the van the food we have left is still chilled. If I was going to use it with ice blocks then I would just have a cool box.

Looks like I need to check the wiring then. It was already installed when I got the van so I hope they have left enough cable to pull the thing out!!

Thanks to all those that have posted, but I have one final question (which I think I already know tghe answer to I: but will ask just to be sure), and one I don't.

The battery is stored in the rear on the van. Am I correct in assuming that the length of the wire i measure is the total lenght ie fridge to PMS unit, and then PMS unit to battery? Not just the longest lenght to/from the PMS unit.

I doubt it will be 100% accurate so are there any problems with having the wire too thick?
 

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I going to be honest with you Dunners, but thats all the CR50 is, a glorified cool box.
The boys would probably give me a right good kicking for this, but its ok saying a 95Ah battery will run it for X amount of hours, but you surely have other stuff so run like lights, tv ect.
Nothing more annoying than having cold beer and no lights - or replacing your leisure battery every year because your fridge has been flattening it.
Ask any caravaner what they run their fridge off whilst not on hook up.... believe me mate its not 12v, its gas.
Ive got the CR50 and it has 2m 30A switched fused direct to 95Ah, I would get no more than 5 hours out of it if I wanted to run lights tv or expected my compressor/ battery to survive a sustained life span.
Sorry if I sound argumentative, that isn’t my intention, im just trying to share my experience.
Hope this helps.
Ian
 

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Hi

I had the flashing red light (1 flash) problem in my Waeco. This indicated voltage outside the parameters.

The flash started about 3 hours after it came off mains hook up or after I stopped the engine. Messed about for ages trying to identify the problem, checking voltages, renewing leisure battery, remaking connections etc. I have a Nasa BM1 battery monitor (which is a cracking piece of kit) which always told me that the voltage was in the correct range to power the fridge.

In the end the only thing that I didn't know how to check was what the voltage drop might be in the cable that I had originally used to power the fridge. So, I ran new 6mm square cable (yes, that is the proper thick 240V 30amp cooker / shower cable) and ran just short of 2 metres direct from the leisure battery, via a 15 amp fuse, straight to the back of the fridge. Didn't bother running it through my Sargent panel. The problem has now been solved and my 110ah battery will run the fridge for at least 3 days, on setting number 3. The battery is also running a LED strip light, smev tap and phone charger.

I picked this advice up from off the forum, so thanks to whoever posted it. Only cost a few quid in the end so worth doing if you're about to wire up your fridge or have got problems.

cheers
Matt
 

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Hi

I had the flashing red light (1 flash) problem in my Waeco. This indicated voltage outside the parameters.

The flash started about 3 hours after it came off mains hook up or after I stopped the engine. Messed about for ages trying to identify the problem, checking voltages, renewing leisure battery, remaking connections etc. I have a Nasa BM1 battery monitor (which is a cracking piece of kit) which always told me that the voltage was in the correct range to power the fridge.

In the end the only thing that I didn't know how to check was what the voltage drop might be in the cable that I had originally used to power the fridge. So, I ran new 6mm square cable (yes, that is the proper thick 240V 30amp cooker / shower cable) and ran just short of 2 metres direct from the leisure battery, via a 15 amp fuse, straight to the back of the fridge. Didn't bother running it through my Sargent panel. The problem has now been solved and my 110ah battery will run the fridge for at least 3 days, on setting number 3. The battery is also running a LED strip light, smev tap and phone charger.

I picked this advice up from off the forum, so thanks to whoever posted it. Only cost a few quid in the end so worth doing if you're about to wire up your fridge or have got problems.

cheers
Matt
Be careful when using standard mains cable as the strands tend to be quite thick and may fracture with constant vibration in a vehicle. Better to use multi core cable.
 

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I am hoping that someone can give me a bit of guidance on what I should do next.

I have a Waeco CR50 fridge, and I have been having a few problems with it running on the leisure battery. The red light kept flashing which I believe means that there is not enough power supply to the fridge to make it run, but the fidge light is on (don't have the manual).

When I hook up to the mains the fridge runs fine. My initial thoughts from investigating the issue was it needed a new leisure battery (was about 3 years old). I purchased one from upspex (good service), 110amp and I installed it on Saturday morning having had it on charge since I received it. I had hooked up the van the nigfht before to ensure that the fridge was already at the temperature so as not to drain the battery doing this.

Went out in the van on Saturday, stopped about 10.30 and swithced it to the leisure battery. I had also switched the fridge down from setting max to 5, again to reduce battery consumption. By about 2 pm, when i went to the fridge the red light was flashing again, showing not enough power to the fridge.

Surely the battery shold last longer than this? The battery indicator light on the PMS shows that there is plenty of charge in the battery. When I took the battery out today to put it back on charge, I check the voltage and it was reading just over 12v.

I believe that the fridge needs 12v to run properly, and the battery said it still had 12v output so it should not have been a problem.

What else can I check?
Could the fridge be broken (but does not make sense as it runs on hook-up)? Can I get spares for the fridge?

I know that there is something about the amps on a battery and only being able to use about 50% of them, but with a new 110amp battery, and from what I have read there is a draw of about 5amps per hour for the fridge, this should still leave me about 10 hours of running time. Or are my calc's rubbish:*

Any help with this would be great. IF I am not able to reslove this myself, can anyone recommend someone in Hampshire to help me?

Thanks in advanceT:

Paul
Hi Paul I had the exact same problem was going to change fridge for a gas one, then I spoke to someone about problem and was told to buy a 10amp, 12v to 24v DC to DC converter from Ebay very little money £16. Fitted it to the 12v from battery to wire into fridge works a treat now on 24/7 without plugging in van to 240v
179424
 
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