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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi guys

ive done a search but cant find if any one has notched the front chassis legs/front shock mounting yet to gain more lows on the front?

me and my friend adam(complete aircooled nutter) were looking at it the other day on the ramp and believe we have the way were gonna do it but just wondered if any1 has any advice/ pointers etc

im a slave to the slammed god and the 6' roof line isnt doin anything for me ;)
 

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Same as mate, needs to be slammed. I've asked in another post to for some pics or more details.
If it's dry I'm going to get under the van tomorrow and have a good look. :gl
 

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I'm with you on this guys, think theres a fair bit to it on these, its a bit like the post a while back about fitting air ride. The biggest problem would be in the torsion bars and adapting them enough to support the vans weight. If I can remember correctly I dont think the chassis legs woud need to be notched as its up quite high and would probably never foul the drive shafts etc. These are only my thoughts and I could be wrong, I'd like to hear ya views.

My thoughts on lowering the van more on the front more could be solved by making some kind of plates that fit in your torsion bar, so to adjust the angle of upper suspension arm = lowering the front, this means you would not have to slacken your torsion bar bolts and still have ok suspension. Probably not very clear this, might have to do a drawing !, If people give a cr*p!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
well from what i can see when im in the arch is

the front shock and bumpstop mounting plate can be removed, then the piece of chassis leg that this is bolted to cut out carefully to retain it,

then a 30mm slither taken from above it then weld the mounting piece you have taken out back in

then you would have to make a spacer block to take up the 30mm difference where the engine cradle bolts to the chassis leg, not a major problem i dont think

but then you will have to weld a notch in the chassis leg for the steering arm! easy peasy just a piece of 3" zorst tube would be ample



BUT!!

this is where i become stuck is the torsion bar able to be twisted/re-aligned to gain some tension back in it and thus bringing down say -30mm extra?

its doin my nut in haha :ILU:

and im sorry to the sensible police lurking on the forum but i like it rough and hard and a bit of scrapeage I:
 

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Who doesn't??????????

seen it done on a mk1 golf and the results are awesome, good luck dude!

T:T:T:
 

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i'm with isaact4 and thinking you must be able to mod the toursion bar some how rather than moving it.

not very clear to me as i've only been glancing under when looking at them to buy but no doubt once i found one a good few hours will be spent weighing it all up

dave
 

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Could you not use coilovers and lose the torsion bars? If this is a stupid idea then I'll get my coat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Could you not use coilovers and lose the torsion bars? If this is a stupid idea then I'll get my coat.


i did think of this maybe strengthen the wheel arch to take a custom set of coilies as GAZ can do what ever length coilover you want

but would the lower shock bolt take the full load? cant see y it wouldnt be possible?
 

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The torsion bars and subframe can stay put,you need to remove the upper shock/bumpstop mount and shave the top arm where the bumpstop would clash to make it thinner.The shocks need changing from needle/eye type to eye/eye type and the chassis rail strengthening to hold the new shocker upper eye mount/bolt.

Problem is the wheetubbs are so shallow that its not really worth going to the trouble of megga low because the tyre will soon foul the tubb and you wont be able to turn as the tyre will not clear the arch on any amount of steering turned.

So ideally you need airide or hydride so you can raise the front to roll and turn.

Still faced with the problem of the upper/lower ball joints reaching thier maximum articulation.

I have been thinking about how to do this for a few months now and the top paragraph is my best solution so far.... and the sill will still be knowhere near the floor:(

Finding a coilover setup for the front that can take the weight wont be easy.

Good luck with your ideas and coming up with a feasable solution without too much modification.
 

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the tyre will soon foul the tubb and you wont be able to turn as the tyre will not clear the arch on any amount of steering turned.

So ideally you need airide or hydride so you can raise the front to roll and turn.

Still faced with the problem of the upper/lower ball joints reaching thier maximum articulation.

I have been thinking about how to do this for a few months now and the top paragraph is my best solution so far.... and the sill will still be knowhere near the floor:(

Finding a coilover setup for the front that can take the weight wont be easy.
That man is a genius. Just what I was thinking. :D
 

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are t5 coilovers man enough?

dont know if they would even be usable or not?

just an idea based on someone else suggesting coilovers
T5's run a full mcphearson strut on the front and are far too tall to go on a T4.
Coilovers would have to be short to run on a T4 and i dont think a strong enough spring would be available to take the weight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The torsion bars and subframe can stay put,you need to remove the upper shock/bumpstop mount and shave the top arm where the bumpstop would clash to make it thinner.The shocks need changing from needle/eye type to eye/eye type and the chassis rail strengthening to hold the new shocker upper eye mount/bolt.

Problem is the wheetubbs are so shallow that its not really worth going to the trouble of megga low because the tyre will soon foul the tubb and you wont be able to turn as the tyre will not clear the arch on any amount of steering turned.

So ideally you need airide or hydride so you can raise the front to roll and turn.

Still faced with the problem of the upper/lower ball joints reaching thier maximum articulation.

I have been thinking about how to do this for a few months now and the top paragraph is my best solution so far.... and the sill will still be knowhere near the floor:(

Finding a coilover setup for the front that can take the weight wont be easy.

Good luck with your ideas and coming up with a feasable solution without too much modification.


cool cheers

im not to worried about tub clearance as im runnin the standard steels with 185/60 tyres

do you have any pics of the eye/eye shock set up you have?


im getting a set of t4 rus shortened shocks soon so is it worth me holding out and getting different front ones?


im gratefull for the help guys


ian
 

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ian,
not sure of the fiesabilities of doing this but if ya get it on the floor hats of to ya!

if it wasnt for mine bieng a semi sensible camper i would be asking the same question!

even thou i cant manage to keep a splitter on very long atm!


good luck with the quest! if ya do it i llok forward to seeing it in the flesh!
 
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