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Pete .I'm slightly concerned here, to some eye's the above image might render nob confusion( said as politely as poss) :ROFLMAO:.:eek:... one see's what one see's I guess.

Being slightly more serious bro ( am I ever:D:p) how does one qualify a unique hand made design against money ...........see whist we can't beat the craft and expertise of the nob maker in question, in pound notes...................one will always know someone else made it and there fore someone else has one the same.... how does one stick a price on that ?

Not in anyway do I think I am on the right path mate, frankly what i'm doing is insanity but maybe life is more about the journey than the result? Me I took the cheep £2.50 upgrade
for the mo....that's not to say more hasn't been pondered, tis just there's other stuff I need to do right now:)

Soooooo,
unless one has a lathe and a skillset one isn't going to match Basil's work, in a viable monetary sense.mind that don't mean ya shouldn't try !!

Oh kiddo as an aside.......I've taken to leaving random silly slaying messages for you around the place in the hope you'll find 'em and giggle I don't really do stuff behind folks backs in the real world mate............... so thought it appropriate to make ya aware an all

go make one Pete sod the 90 notes:D
Yeah I know what you're saying Stu, the rest of the van is very much custom as like your and many other on here so in the words of Magnus Magnusson "I've started so I'll finish" (y)

😂 I'll have to go find said posts, interested to see what you've said, I'm sure it's a jesting mocking at worse.
Now I can honestly say I've never paid much attention to another mans knob, but I'd say you'd need a hole through the middle of yours Pete so that you can screw it on 😳. I'm assuming that what the other guy does is fix a screw thread into the underside instead - ie. top half is reverse thread so screw into the underside of your knob so that it doesn't come off when you screw your knob on to your gear lever. Should be pretty easy to do that - especially for a man of your carpentry skills!

Watching with interest as Pete goes trawling through all the latest threads to discover how much he's been trolled! 😂😉
I'm really quite proud of everyone in this thread, all this way and no real lowering of the tone, well done all 👏😂

I've been sketching methods of how to machine mine to get it to work, but yeah would involve cutting a 30mm dia hole in the end to allow for the lift up reverse. All the machining does remove a lot of material, I'm concerned the layers of ply would just crumble. Will need to add in a pipe to work around the existing shaft and to locate the spring, M6 threaded insert fitted into the end of the gearknob (inside the 30mm rebate) and use some m6 threaded bar to fix it back to the shaft. Would only be hand tight as currently no way of mechanically fixing it, and trying to get an adapter made...just 1 off would be expensive. This is just one route I'm looking at.

The tricky bit that's got me scratching my head is catering for the lift up reverse...although if I always park so I can drive forward I'll never need to reverse again...genius!

Thanks Split, but my carpentry skills aren't that great, a lot of the van furniture was cnc'd, I'm very much learning as I go, Stu ( @Soundz ) is the man with the skills, but then taking a millennium on one piece of oak it's bound to look good 😂 😋
The basil knobs come with a machined adapter that bolts to the gear stick this has grub screws to prevent it spinning.
the top of the adapter is threaded and the knob screws onto that. Very neat
Yeah they are a cracking piece of kit. It's the adapter that's tripping me up, but there is always a work around. (y)
 

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Pete .I'm slightly concerned here, to some eye's the above image might render nob confusion( said as politely as poss) :ROFLMAO:.:eek:... one see's what one see's I guess.

Being slightly more serious bro ( am I ever:D:p) how does one qualify a unique hand made design against money ...........see whist we can't beat the craft and expertise of the nob maker in question, in pound notes...................one will always know someone else made it and there fore someone else has one the same.... how does one stick a price on that ?

Not in anyway do I think I am on the right path mate, frankly what i'm doing is insanity but maybe life is more about the journey than the result? Me I took the cheep £2.50 upgrade
for the mo....that's not to say more hasn't been pondered, tis just there's other stuff I need to do right now:)

Soooooo,
unless one has a lathe and a skillset one isn't going to match Basil's work, in a viable monetary sense.mind that don't mean ya shouldn't try !!

Oh kiddo as an aside.......I've taken to leaving random silly slaying messages for you around the place in the hope you'll find 'em and giggle I don't really do stuff behind folks backs in the real world mate............... so thought it appropriate to make ya aware an all

go make one Pete sod the 90 notes:D
I've seen a couple of the comments so far and all seem to compliment Petes attention to detail 😝
 

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I've seen a couple of the comments so far and all seem to compliment Petes attention to detail 😝

don't get me wrong Will I love pete to bit's he's always helping someone bro........... inspiring others with their efforts bla de bla I love that man I really love that ( don't tell him that;)) but mate we gotta have a laugh with and at each other ........there is no debate We are all bloody bonkers.just look what we do to these vans, the time the money we spend(y)
Yeah I know what you're saying Stu, the rest of the van is very much custom as like your and many other on here so in the words of Magnus Magnusson "I've started so I'll finish" (y)

😂 I'll have to go find said posts, interested to see what you've said, I'm sure it's a jesting mocking at worse.

I'm really quite proud of everyone in this thread, all this way and no real lowering of the tone, well done all 👏😂

I've been sketching methods of how to machine mine to get it to work, but yeah would involve cutting a 30mm dia hole in the end to allow for the lift up reverse. All the machining does remove a lot of material, I'm concerned the layers of ply would just crumble. Will need to add in a pipe to work around the existing shaft and to locate the spring, M6 threaded insert fitted into the end of the gearknob (inside the 30mm rebate) and use some m6 threaded bar to fix it back to the shaft. Would only be hand tight as currently no way of mechanically fixing it, and trying to get an adapter made...just 1 off would be expensive. This is just one route I'm looking at.

The tricky bit that's got me scratching my head is catering for the lift up reverse...although if I always park so I can drive forward I'll never need to reverse again...genius!

Thanks Split, but my carpentry skills aren't that great, a lot of the van furniture was cnc'd, I'm very much learning as I go, Stu ( @Soundz ) is the man with the skills, but then taking a millennium on one piece of oak it's bound to look good 😂 😋

Yeah they are a cracking piece of kit. It's the adapter that's tripping me up, but there is always a work around. (y)

Yes Pete all in jest,purely designed to make ya smile. No malice or any of that tosh just two lads having a crack and taking the mick:p Life's a biatch as important as learning is smiling bro, it's good for those of us that struggle at times:)

Buddy are you aware of these thingies...............https://www.screwfix.com/p/insert-nuts-type-d-m6-x-20mm-50-pack/61859?kpid=61859&ds_kid=92700048793290424&ds_rl=1249413&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-pCjhKz68wIVDJNmAh32vgIlEAQYCCABEgIrsvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

i've no great experience of them( YET) bro ,but suspect they are your answer..............I'm going to use these to attach my cupboards to the floor Pete I know enough now to be confident in them, but i'd like to be able to back that comment with more experience really mate. I can't pull them out of wood ( my 15mm birch ply ). So for the upwards forces you might apply on a gear nob shifting to reverse I honestly think you are good. I'll qualify that with using a micrometer to drill the right size hole to the barrel and let the threads cut into the wood, no ambiguity on the size hold drilled. Second i'm pondering adding in a metal to wood glue, just a trace around the threads so the whole thing sort of bonds.


Pete if there is a weakness in baltic birch ply it's in the glue used to bond the sheets of birch together...........if you are bonding layers of say 15mm ply together to make a nob like the custom one's in this thread,say with tight bond iii, and proper clamping those joints won't be a weak point, the wood will tare first. I've sort of messed up enough along the way made enough mistakes to be fairly confident i'm not talking BS. Not completely confident buddy .I ain't that guy, but preddy much so

Drill hole for above gizmo just a gnat's "B " deep Pete, you might need a tiny bit of wiggle room at the top to center the nob exactly where ya want but ya want to utilize all those threads for strength.

Does that make sense bro? can we go back to being silly now?.....................


I feel bad now I lowered the tone :(. but he's proud of everyone else..( how the hell does that work? I didn't post the weird stuff)............. my world's collapsed i'm off to shed real tears........... all the gear nob's were cool but that last one was just plain wrong,surely everyone else sees that........?????
 

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don't get me wrong Will I love pete to bit's he's always helping someone bro........... inspiring others with their efforts bla de bla I love that man I really love that ( don't tell him that;)) but mate we gotta have a laugh with and at each other ........there is no debate We are all bloody bonkers.just look what we do to these vans, the time the money we spend(y)



Yes Pete all in jest,purely designed to make ya smile. No malice or any of that tosh just two lads having a crack and taking the mick:p Life's a biatch as important as learning is smiling bro, it's good for those of us that struggle at times:)

Buddy are you aware of these thingies...............https://www.screwfix.com/p/insert-nuts-type-d-m6-x-20mm-50-pack/61859?kpid=61859&ds_kid=92700048793290424&ds_rl=1249413&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-pCjhKz68wIVDJNmAh32vgIlEAQYCCABEgIrsvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

i've no great experience of them( YET) bro ,but suspect they are your answer..............I'm going to use these to attach my cupboards to the floor Pete I know enough now to be confident in them, but i'd like to be able to back that comment with more experience really mate. I can't pull them out of wood ( my 15mm birch ply ). So for the upwards forces you might apply on a gear nob shifting to reverse I honestly think you are good. I'll qualify that with using a micrometer to drill the right size hole to the barrel and let the threads cut into the wood, no ambiguity on the size hold drilled. Second i'm pondering adding in a metal to wood glue, just a trace around the threads so the whole thing sort of bonds.


Pete if there is a weakness in baltic birch ply it's in the glue used to bond the sheets of birch together...........if you are bonding layers of say 15mm ply together to make a nob like the custom one's in this thread,say with tight bond iii, and proper clamping those joints won't be a weak point, the wood will tare first. I've sort of messed up enough along the way made enough mistakes to be fairly confident i'm not talking BS. Not completely confident buddy .I ain't that guy, but preddy much so

Drill hole for above gizmo just a gnat's "B " deep Pete, you might need a tiny bit of wiggle room at the top to center the nob exactly where ya want but ya want to utilize all those threads for strength.

Does that make sense bro? can we go back to being silly now?.....................


I feel bad now I lowered the tone :(. but he's proud of everyone else..( how the hell does that work? I didn't post the weird stuff)............. my world's collapsed i'm off to shed real tears........... all the gear nob's were cool but that last one was just plain wrong,surely everyone else sees that........?????
People would probably think we are crazy sheeling the amounts we do but all the blood, sweat and tears shed making them are own are definitely worth it!

Now, let's get back on track and help Pete with his knob problems😂

Would those nut inserts be a little too serrated and possibly split the layers up when screwed in?
Maybe not if hand tightened but could seem to be a good alternative👍
With the upwards pressure when the reverse selection is engaged, there will be downward pressure with your hand on top so won't be any force pulling the gear knob off.

The question is now, creating a fixing, possibly using a universal one to be in place on the gear stick for the knob to be screwed into place, also getting it in the right orientation for the ball to be placed in a desirable point.
 

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Will in order of paragraphs


Oh hell yeah


Why? I did just that.threw the best I had at him

No you haven't grasped how they work they are meant to cut plus the threads are going to pull the layers together not tare apart

, I can put them into solid oak so birch being softer will be much easier ............. ya must get the drill size spot on and you must use the right glue, to bind the layers ( ie pieces of ply) you must clamp for enough time at the right temps specified by the glue maker!!

Adding a little extra glue to bind metal and wood, together seems no bad thing....... the "teeth" the threads are actually going to bind the whole thing together so sort of binding wood and metal seems a fair punt

Why does one need to do more than hand tighten?



No, because you already have said "universal fixing" it IS the gear stick.............. you tailor what you make to what you already have buddy, otherwise you are adding steps one doesn't need and more points of weakness.............IE over complication.

think slow think thorough measure five times make sure ya know where ya face is.....always know where ya face is( by face I mean the bit of wood one is going to look at. it is sos os easy to turn something round...measure again cut once


:)
 

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if it helps I can get some pics next time I’m at the van?
That could be quite handy, thanks (y) In my head it needs to be a metal collar, smooth to the inside but threaded externally with a couple of grub screws to locate into the slots in the gearknob shaft. Trying to replicate that idea with kit I have available.
I've seen a couple of the comments so far and all seem to compliment Petes attention to detail 😝
I need to go and find the posts (y)
Thanks Stu, that put a smile on my face 😁 I'm no smartie, there's certainly lots of things I don't know or actually get, but working in the technical design field for over 20 years I've learnt some stuff so more than happy to offer up some ideas and suggestions, may not always be the best idea but may help. Failing that, I've always got a sarcastic comment ready in the background, as you say, got to have a laugh hey!

We use those type on inserts at work mate, for an m6 you'd ideally want an 8.5mm dia hole x 20mm deep to accept the insert alone (based on the one you linked to), but will maybe need to drill deeper depending on the length of bolt / machine screw you're using. One neat handy trick I've learnt to add extra strength is to fit the inset from the opposite face, so where you're looking to mount the insert to your floor boards, potentially from the top face, if you can, mount them from the bottom face pointing up, this way you're adding so much more resistance to stop them pulling out as they would have to travel through the floor board.

We sometimes use these inserts to mount adjustable feet into a counter and they've been known to rip out when someone on site drags the unit rather than lifting, not often but it can happen hence where possible I always fit the inserts from the opposite face. And always best to opt for the one with the lip as per your link instead of the simply threaded ones.
People would probably think we are crazy sheeling the amounts we do but all the blood, sweat and tears shed making them are own are definitely worth it!

Now, let's get back on track and help Pete with his knob problems😂

Would those nut inserts be a little too serrated and possibly split the layers up when screwed in?
Maybe not if hand tightened but could seem to be a good alternative👍
With the upwards pressure when the reverse selection is engaged, there will be downward pressure with your hand on top so won't be any force pulling the gear knob off.

The question is now, creating a fixing, possibly using a universal one to be in place on the gear stick for the knob to be screwed into place, also getting it in the right orientation for the ball to be placed in a desirable point.
I can't help cut feel this thread has taken on a personal theme, namely Pete and knob, can't say I'm over joyed with that 🤣

Pre-drilled hole and hand tightened should be fine, once the insert in is it's going to take some serious pressure to rip it out, and as I don't eat spinach or turn green I should be ok (y) Couple of references there that some younger folk may only get the one of.
Will in order of paragraphs


Oh hell yeah


Why? I did just that.threw the best I had at him

No you haven't grasped how they work they are meant to cut plus the threads are going to pull the layers together not tare apart

, I can put them into solid oak so birch being softer will be much easier ............. ya must get the drill size spot on and you must use the right glue, to bind the layers ( ie pieces of ply) you must clamp for enough time at the right temps specified by the glue maker!!

Adding a little extra glue to bind metal and wood, together seems no bad thing....... the "teeth" the threads are actually going to bind the whole thing together so sort of binding wood and metal seems a fair punt

Why does one need to do more than hand tighten?



No, because you already have said "universal fixing" it IS the gear stick.............. you tailor what you make to what you already have buddy, otherwise you are adding steps one doesn't need and more points of weakness.............IE over complication.

think slow think thorough measure five times make sure ya know where ya face is.....always know where ya face is( by face I mean the bit of wood one is going to look at. it is sos os easy to turn something round...measure again cut once


:)
We never tend to glue them in, they bite and chew into the wood as you say, to be honest none of my builds have had any glue in them, which is good considering my history 😂
 
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🤣 Quality!

I'd probably just had stayed with version 1 if it was glued. Ah who am I kidding 😂
 

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PVA UK is pure class H...........Pete and nobs ain't my doing i'm just an innocent guy trying to help.....the thought never crossed my mind...:D.. cheers both we all need a crack at times

Pete ok back to desparately trying to be serious, cheers for the comeback..........We all know ickle bit's of stuff you know more than me about said linked gizmo bro cheers for the thoughts and wisdom based on experience, nice one buddy. (y)

Mate I kept fixating on birch ply last night ...it's what i've been clattering this last year, so it's natural enough I guess,we all try to share our real world experiences and pass that forwards. I was pondering all this on me way to work this morn.............I know you have a skillset bro from your design work....so guessed you would have a lot of this in hand, have you pondered making your own ply,basically sourcing a load of veneer like they use in marquetry ? Gluing the whole lot together and then carving out the design with your CNC skills? Mate i've been posting as a train wreck here so simply might have missed this..I'd guess it's what being done by the custom maker in the images above? Using your own choice of glue removes many of my concerns ha but not the time aspect;)

take care both cheers for the crack
 

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You got an idea of what the insert for your knob would look like? My mate is a dab hand on the lathe - could easily get him to knock up an insert for your knob 😳
Would need to be say a steel ring, internal dia circa 18mm, 10mm high with 3mm thick wall to accept it being threaded on the outside which I can screw my knob directly onto. Just need to figure a way of locking the adapter to the gearstick else it'll just spin. The shaft has 2 notches at the top hence why Basil uses grub screws to locate and lock in. I'll have to do some more workings out and confirm sizes to see how possible it is.
If your mate would be able to sort me something, that would be awesome mate (y)
 

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Would need to be say a steel ring, internal dia circa 18mm, 10mm high with 3mm thick wall to accept it being threaded on the outside which I can screw my knob directly onto. Just need to figure a way of locking the adapter to the gearstick else it'll just spin. The shaft has 2 notches at the top hence why Basil uses grub screws to locate and lock in. I'll have to do some more workings out and confirm sizes to see how possible it is.
If your mate would be able to sort me something, that would be awesome mate (y)
Couple picks of my knob incoming

Vehicle Hood Steering part Automotive tire Car




this is the “universal” adapter so this slots over the gear stick. The central bolt threads onto the old gear knob fitting and there are 3 grub screws so lock it in place once you’ve set the position. The outside is threaded to attach the new knob to
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive design Automotive lighting


This is the underside so there’s a machined metal insert that forms the collar and is threaded to match the adapter. This is glued into to knob
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Gesture Automotive design Automotive lighting


Close up of the adapter
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive design Hood Electrical wiring


what I did was fit the adapter and only tighten one grub screw then screwed on the knob And noted the position of the marking. Thenremoved The knob and administer the adapter. Took a few attempts but was able to tweak the last little bit then tightened all the grub screws up once it was correctly clocked.
Hope that helps?
 

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That's awesome mate, thanks for that! It's certainly more involved than I was expecting but does explain what the external silver ring was all about, thought it was just a feature. Also as mine hasn't got the numbers in the top face I haven't got the issue of alignment.

@64 SPLIT think the above would be quite an ask of your mate, will see if I can simplify my design.

(y)@Charcoalflunky thanks again for the above, muchly appreciated
 
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