[AndyDCAG]

Started opening up the old O2G/AFK gearbox tonight to see what horrors were inside.

Pleased to report that 9 knuckles are still intact I:

Got the bell housing and gearbox housing loose, but the flange shaft needs to come out too before I can fully separate the two.

Here's what ELSAWIN says:

They make it sound so easy!

So, what's the diy option? I don't have a multi-purpose tool VW 771 or a puller Kukko 18-0.....:*

Thinking of bolting some iron to it then having a good tug....then I'll try and pull the flange shaft outLOL:

Anyone else done one of these before?

Cheers all.T:

Andy

 

[stifla]

Im about to embark on a full rebuild of mine so any pointers from you would be great as ive never really had a gearbox open really. GOOD LUCK MATE !!!!!! A:A:A:A:

 

[jets]

I had a look in my Bentley manual which covers the 02G trans., it shows on illustration L34-52, 2 screws M10 x 75 screwed into the flange opposite to each other. It says to alternately tighten the screws to remove the drive flange. Just looking at a cross section it looks like after passing through the seal,differential & diff. gear, there is a circlip that needs to be compressed, similar to the one on a driveshaft. By tightening the screws it must squeeze the circlip into the groove. It says to always replace the circlip. Lets us all know how you get on.

 

[jets]

As I can't edit my post another is necessary.
My van is a syncro & just looking at that section in ELSA WIN The RHS drive flange can be removed by striking at the back of the flange with a soft hammer. So I am confident that it just pulls out. The problem with what I have said in the previous post is you may damage something on the later gearboxes using jacking screws.[Bentley ref. from 8/95]
It would be very easy to make up the tool. Plate A can be made up as you see it with a tapped hole in the centre & secured each end with a short M10 screw. A piece of rod with a thread on the end to suit the tapped hole. Alternatively weld a nut onto plate A in the centre or just weld the rod on to A.
The slide hammer VW771 can be any piece of steel of suitable mass with a hole in the middle to suit the rod. Finally a nut on the top end of the rod or a piece of plate welded will provide the stop for the hammer to strike against. Hope that makes sense.

 

[AndyDCAG]

Makes a lot of sense, thanks mate. Now to see what I've got in the garage....

Had a look at ETKA drawings and can see a bit more clearly how it's assembled inside.

So, a good tug is requiredT:

Will report back if/when I succeed!

Andy

 

[AndyDCAG]

Well, I ended up using a couple of long M10 bolts to jack the flange shaft off and hey presto, one gearbox split in half.

I collected up all the little bits of tooth that fell out - what a lot of shrapnel

Anyways, here's a few pics for those interested:

Bell Housing side of box...the black crud in the middle at the bottom is all the bits of teeth collecting in the gunge

Business (and broken) end of box (gears still in place)

Then I lifted all the gears and selectors out in one go, here's waht I found...

One of these selectors is showing a small amount of damage...can you tell which oneRasp:

In case you didn't spot it, here's a close up

Now for a few random 'toothless gear' photos just to increase everyone's awareness of the perils of ignoring the dreaded gearbox whine....

I'll continue the dissection over the coming weeks as and when I feel like it - if anyone's after an intact bell housing for an AFK gearbox, I'm all ears (but no teeth)

 

[jets]

Yes I am interested in some more pics & your experiences. It's fairly rare to have some details of what went wrong in a gearbox trauma, most people just take it somewhere to get it fixed. BTW, it looks fairly filthy inside, I had imagined it would be much cleaner. How many miles has the box done?

 

[AndyDCAG]

How many miles has the box done?

....er....234,000 when it finally went ping

I've only had it for the last 3000

I'm assuming it has never had much attention - big mistake. The replacement will be getting lots of very paranoid attention!

...or perhaps it was its time to go....?

 

[thevandidit]

....er....234,000 when it finally went ping

I've only had it for the last 3000

I'm assuming it has never had much attention - big mistake. The replacement will be getting lots of very paranoid attention!

...or perhaps it was its time to go....?

And VW say that the box oil in a manual is there for life Will be changing mine when I pull the clutch out soon.

 

[AndyDCAG]

Will be changing mine when I pull the clutch out soon.

Why wait for clutch change?
Gearbox oil is not affected by clutch change as far as I can see...no point avoiding it. T:

 

[itsaminibus]

when you remove the box wont itdrain its self from the driveshaft holes if you dont drain it fae the drain plug first?

 

[AndyDCAG]

We'll have to wait for an expert to come along. I thought it was all sealed into the gearbox. Otherwise it wouldn't be 'oil for life' in the gearbox, it would be 'replenish each clutch change', though in retrospect it's probably not a bad idea to do that as a minimum...

 

[thevandidit]

when you remove the box wont itdrain its self from the driveshaft holes if you dont drain it fae the drain plug first?

Depends on the box, I think the t4 boxes are sealed. Some poor out when you take off the drive shafts!

 

[jets]

When you remove the drive shaft it is unbolted at the drive flange, the drive flanges remain with the box & therefore the oil is contained.BTW, VW gearboxes aren't sealed, they have a drain plug & filler plug. If you want the gearbox to last, change the oil.

 

[AndyDCAG]

If you want the gearbox to last, change the oil.

Amen to thatT:

When I said sealed, I just meant that the oil doesn't pee everywhere when you remove the box (unless it's got a massive crack and two holes in it like my old one did ).

 

[thevandidit]

Amen to thatT:

When I said sealed, I just meant that the oil doesn't pee everywhere when you remove the box (unless it's got a massive crack and two holes in it like my old one did ).

Thats what I meant as well. Unlike the misses car, as soon as you touch the drive shaft you covered!

 

[AndyDCAG]

UPDATE

Got the final drive gear out the other day. All the rivets are intact, so no 'classic' failure mode there then.
My best guess is that was the selector fork giving up the ghost that killed the box. Most likely as a result of insufficient oil in the box. It all looks a bit dry up at the end where the failure occured. Everything else pretty oily.

Here it is in all its glory...

To be continued, when I get timeT:

 

[Zmok]

The fact that the gears have gone black is a classic sign of oil starvation and overheated gears.

I'm liking your thread tho - keep going.

 

[AndyDCAG]

The fact that the gears have gone black is a classic sign of oil starvation and overheated gears.

Does that mean they're totally cooked, or could they still be sold/kept for spares? :*

I'm liking your thread tho - keep going.

Will do. Quite enjoying getting my hands dirty for a changeT:

 

[jets]

Will you be changing the rivets for bolts Andy?