Can't say it's the easiest in a 2.5 TDi caravelle with rear heating
I had to cut the coolant pipes that run to the rear heater and remove extra brackets for the pipes
Also there was a engine brace bar that fits over the top of the pivot bracket that had to come out
Spent most of the day figuring out what and what not to disconnect, then just going for it
Now having problems finding the coolant pipes locally, 701-819-372-G was easy enough but 7DO-121-157AD is coming from Germany, ETA a weeks time
thanks for posting this,found it very useful,the trouble is - i cannot see the pics,is there anyway you make them "visible" or message them to me.i think the description is great but i like to be able to visualise what i need to do - thanks.
Just want to add my thanks for this article and the subsequent comments. My 97 1.9TD had part 45 (53?) (701-711-166) disintegrate. Following the article I managed to replace it from the top without taking the "T-bar" out of the engine. Helpful were the suggestions of attaching the re-built bracket to the smaller ball before reattaching to the engine and pushing the ball in sideways. Both helped me get a g-cramp into position to help with the final push. Richard
A few weeks ago one of my gear bushes went, and at the time I had no idea what it was or how to fix it. I found that I could drive and find all the gears after a while, so that was some relief, but I still needed to fix it. After plenty of searching and youtube videos, I worked out what I hoped needed doing, so I bought a cheap pack on eBay. Unfortunately, it wasn't one of the balls that went, but the gearshift rod bush (see picture below), which by all accounts was going to be harder to fix, and probably not doable by me on the road. I removed the old part that was hanging on and a friend and I gave it a go. We put the bush in boiling water, which made it super flexible, but far too much so, and it just got pushed out through the other side, and then when it cooled, the rubber had deteriorated. After a fair bit of time, we realised that wasn't going to work, only to find I now no longer had reverse, 1st or 5th gear.
Anyhow the reason for the post is because I thought I'd better try to hold it together with cable ties to get it to the garage, but as I was about to try that, a friend mentioned bike inner tubes. I bought one from Poundland today and managed to wrap it once around the rod, then through the hole where the bush should go, then back around the back of the perpendicular rod going back to the gearstick, and then tied the two ends together (I've tried to show what I mean in the picture below). As a result, the ball is held where it should be and I have all gears back. I used some cable ties to stop the inner tube slipping, but it holds onto itself pretty well. I don't know how long it will last, but hopefully enough to get to the garage (200 miles away!) and won't catch fire or melt - I've no idea how hot that area of the engine bay gets.
Still in the middle of my repair (replaced torn bushing on gearbox side) but haven't yet pressed the small plastic sphere back into the bushing...
My T4 TDI 9ACV, 02G, DXZ will be 10 years old in May, and has not had major repairs - apart from a water pump replace due to wrong coolant mix used by de-listed VW workshop.
The excellent German VW mechanic who did the repair wanted me to have the van towed 30 km to his workshop because he said he wanted to remove the starter to get at the linkages from below, "otherwise it's an almost impossible job". It sure was next to impossible, what with all the coolant/airconditioning hoses criss-crossing the 'work area'...
The most time-consuming job was to get the three hex socket screws of the bracket out: I made three trips into town by bus to buy an ever-increasing stock of tools! But getting them back into place was even worse LOL
Now before I start levering the balls back into the bushes, I find myself looking at an unusual angled bracket (part no. 701 399 355) that I can't remember where I took it off...
BTW, the German mechanic suggested pushing the small sphere into the bushing SIDEWAYS, as that would be easier, and then fiddling to line up the hole with the shaft. I left the sphere intact on the shaft, the other one too, since they look o.k.
Today I thought I'd check and adjust the idle on my 2.5 ajt, the value is at 32768 as stock but idles at 750rpm (smells a bit) using the up/down it would only go as high as 32818 @ 816rpm and the timing sat at 62. At 750 the timing bounces between 52 and 58. I returned the value back to stock...
Replacement Parts for Maintenance
There are a total of four different items needed to change the AFT and filter.
Filter (Strainer) - VW # 01M 325 429
Filter Gasket - VW # 01M 325 443
Pan Gasket - VW # 098 321 370
AFT Fluid, 4 litres - VW # G 052 162 A2
Filters & gaskets are also available...
For the 5-cylinder 2.5 litre ACV (102bhp/75kw) TDI engine launched in August 1995 on the T4a, VW provided the stronger 02G gearbox. Unique to the high power T4's, this gearbox is more able to cope with the extra torque generated by these state of the art engines.
The Audi based ACV engine was...
Instruments/Clusters/Clocks/Dials/Dash Panels etc. whatever you care to call them. I prefer the term 'instrument cluster' as this to me most accurately describes what is in question – a clock is something that tells the time and usually hangs on the wall :):) This is a short overview of the...
Well here goes, ill try and document as much info as i can on my conversion.....
Here's what we started with...
I started to gather the bits..
Turbo and manifold off 2.5TDI ACV
EGR blank fitted
Inlet manifold off 2.5TDI ACV
Dipstick tube off 2.5TDI ACV
oil feed and return pipes off...