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Hallo everyone.. I bought myself a 1997 Caravelle last september and I've been following the posts here for a little over a year now. Pretty impressed with what people have accomplished on their vans.. as well as some very helpful how-to's.. but now I have a question, the answer to which is probably buried in a thread somewhere.. regarding the Eberspächer D3WZ.. is it possible to remove just the top part of it for overhauling/servicing without getting into removing coolant lines and such? I haven't had a close look at it, but I have a technical drawing and it looks as though I just need to remove the 4 screws on top, then the 2 that hold the blower in place.. but it also appears that this is what holds the heat exchanger in place.. any help is greatly appreciated :)

Many thanks

JM
 

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Greetings and welcome.I changed my faulty D3WZ for a working replacement.I stripped the old one down on the bench to clean and service.I would say it would be very tricky to do due to lack of space.I used pipe clamps when I removed the old one and lost around 1/2ltr of coolant.I guess you could make a link pipe using some copper pipe and a few clamps so you could still use the van whilst the heater is out
 

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Hello G60 and thanks for the reply.. I think I'll end up removing the entire unit, as I'm afraid that when I remove the fan from the heat exchanger, coolant will begin leaking out around the seal. Hose clamps are a good idea though.. If I get it sorted, I hope to add a pump and use it as a preheater for those really cold mornings. How easy was the stripdown and reassembly?
 

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Hello G60 and thanks for the reply.. I think I'll end up removing the entire unit, as I'm afraid that when I remove the fan from the heat exchanger, coolant will begin leaking out around the seal. Hose clamps are a good idea though.. If I get it sorted, I hope to add a pump and use it as a preheater for those really cold mornings. How easy was the strip down and reassembly?
It was very easy to strip down just make sure the tops of the torx screws are clean so the torx bit sits nicely and will not round off the screw head.Be careful when you are removing the top as the lead for the pcb is short and you need to un clip it to release.You can test the fan by putting 12v to it.Mine turned out to be a faulty glow plug.So I will change that along with the glowplug screen.
If you remove the unit the diesel feed pipe was tricky and make sure you have a new pipe clamp to hand for when you refit the unit.
There is plenty of info on here and the internet of how to change to a parking heater or there is a kit Eberspacher do but its expensive at over £300.I didn't bother I fitted an Eberspacher D2 Airtronic with a 7 day timer.I can email you some pictures of the top removed as I have not full put back together as waiting for the glow plug and screen
 

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Welcome to the Forum from Sunny Cornwall....though perhaps you should look up the English meaning of 'Frigid' :D

...of course I don't know if you may have been refering to your domestic situation LOL:
 

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is it possible to remove just the top part of it for overhauling/servicing without getting into removing coolant lines and such?
I removed the top and changed the glow plug once with the heater in place in the car, but it wasn't equally comfortable as removing the entire D3WZ heater and do the work on the worktop :)

Later on I also removed the heater and striped it down, since it wasn't 100% reliable. I cleaned it and replaced the small "metal sock" that I think is for distributing the diesel in the combustion chamber. The "metal sock" was a bit worn. The heater worked for awhile, but then it stopped working again. I use an Eberspächer 7 day timer with diagnostics for controlling the heater, when running it as a parking heater or for getting hot water for showers. I can't remember which fault code it showed, but it indicated fault in either the control module or the fan.

I got a bit tired of not having the heater working properly. After first converting it to a parking heather and later on also converting it for providing with hot water for showers, it had to work. When I managed to source a brand new Eberspächer D3WZ heater at ebay.de that didn't cost much more then just the control module on its own, then I bought a new heater. It's been working well for a number of years and we use it quite a bit for getting hot water for the shower.
 

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Re: Greetings from *edit*freezing Norway.. warmth wanted :)

perhaps you should look up the English meaning of 'Frigid' :D

...of course I don't know if you may have been refering to your domestic situation LOL:
R: ehmmm.. I've learned something new today :D I was referring to the sub-zero temperatures of the past few days, but I'm in the middle of a divorce atm, so that could apply there...

I can email you some pictures of the top removed as I have not full put back together as waiting for the glow plug and screen
I've got a few pictures, but more importantly, technical drawings... how long have you been waiting for parts?
 

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Re: Greetings from freezing Norway.. warmth wanted :)

I removed the top and changed the glow plug once with the heater in place in the car, but it wasn't equally comfortable as removing the entire D3WZ heater and do the work on the worktop :)
This confirms what I was hoping was possible :)

Later on I also removed the heater and striped it down, since it wasn't 100% reliable. I cleaned it and replaced the small "metal sock" that I think is for distributing the diesel in the combustion chamber. The "metal sock" was a bit worn. The heater worked for awhile, but then it stopped working again. I use an Eberspächer 7 day timer with diagnostics for controlling the heater, when running it as a parking heater or for getting hot water for showers. I can't remember which fault code it showed, but it indicated fault in either the control module or the fan.
I'll probably end up rebuilding mine as well. It's 20 years old and probably never been serviced.
Also, thanks for the link.. though I may install a simple switch to bypass the temperature sensor. This is useful if I'm going to make short trips, so I can leave it off, as the chamber never gets up to operating temp soot builds up quickly.. or start it up maybe 10-15 mins before I'm ready to drive. There are many possibilities there. There was someone here who found an old pager wired up to his. No timer needed, just call you car to turn up the heat :)
Also also.. hot water for showers.. yes :) I'm ready to do a camper van conversion now :D
 

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Re: Greetings from *edit*freezing Norway.. warmth wanted :)

R: ehmmm.. I've learned something new today :D I was referring to the sub-zero temperatures of the past few days, but I'm in the middle of a divorce atm, so that could apply there...



I've got a few pictures, but more importantly, technical drawings... how long have you been waiting for parts?
Not long.Only ordered the other day so should see them today / tomorrow
 

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Re: Greetings from freezing Norway.. warmth wanted :)

I may install a simple switch to bypass the temperature sensor. This is useful if I'm going to make short trips, so I can leave it off, as the chamber never gets up to operating temp soot builds up quickly.. or start it up maybe 10-15 mins before I'm ready to drive. There are many possibilities there. There was someone here who found an old pager wired up to his. No timer needed, just call you car to turn up the heat :)
Also also.. hot water for showers.. yes :) I'm ready to do a camper van conversion now :D
A switch for bypassing the outside-temperature sensor works fine, if you just want turn on the heater when the engine runs and the out-door temperature is >+5 C. If you want the heater to run when the engine doesn't run, then an electric water pump is needed for circulating the coolant. Either one can convert and use the after-circulation pump or add another water pump.

The only thing the timer does is to switch its output 12v on/off. The great thing with the Eberspächer 7 day multi-timer is its diagnostics function, which makes it possible to read any fault codes and get a better idea what's wrong. Another advantage is that it can be controlled by an external switch too. Furthermore the multi-timer fits nicely in the dash-board of T4s.
 

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Re: Greetings from freezing Norway.. warmth wanted :)

A switch for bypassing the outside-temperature sensor works fine, if you just want turn on the heater when the engine runs and the out-door temperature is >+5 C. If you want the heater to run when the engine doesn't run, then an electric water pump is needed for circulating the coolant. Either one can convert and use the after-circulation pump or add another water pump.

The only thing the timer does is to switch its output 12v on/off. The great thing with the Eberspächer 7 day multi-timer is its diagnostics function, which makes it possible to read any fault codes and get a better idea what's wrong. Another advantage is that it can be controlled by an external switch too. Furthermore the multi-timer fits nicely in the dash-board of T4s.
sokrates :
I woulld like to modify as above to allow preheat with engine off. is the auxiliary / after circulation pump sufficient to circulate the coolant (i guess it must be seeing as that's it's purpose). do you also have a link or part number for the timer that you mention ? i would like to try and get hold of one. can you still get them new or used only ?

G60 :
thanks for the email !
 

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Re: Greetings from freezing Norway.. warmth wanted :)

The only thing the timer does is to switch its output 12v on/off. The great thing with the Eberspächer 7 day multi-timer is its diagnostics function, which makes it possible to read any fault codes and get a better idea what's wrong. Another advantage is that it can be controlled by an external switch too. Furthermore the multi-timer fits nicely in the dash-board of T4s.
The diagnostic function would be good to have.. I'll have to look into that. I should have taken the unit out today to have a good look at it, but I changed an upper ball joint, and that took a bit more time than planned. Maybe Monday..
 

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Re: Greetings from freezing Norway.. warmth wanted :)

I woulld like to modify as above to allow preheat with engine off. is the auxiliary / after circulation pump sufficient to circulate the coolant (i guess it must be seeing as that's it's purpose). do you also have a link or part number for the timer that you mention ? i would like to try and get hold of one. can you still get them new or used only ?
There's some information about using the after circulation pump at "www.t4-wiki.de/wiki/Zuheizer Aufrüstung". I believe one just had to add an extra relay that can override relay F95.



You also need to build an adapter cable and add four diodes for being able to run the Eberspächer D3WZ coolant heater without the engine running.

I didn't convert the water heater using the after circulation pump, since I went for the 5-port valve, T-connector rout instead. Therefore, I added another water pump that goes with the 5-port valve. The 5-port valve direct the majority of the heated coolant to the heat matrix for the windscreen or as in my case the Caravelle rear heat matrix. This is what my installation looked like before I added the plate heat exchanger for having the D3WZ to provide with hot water for showers:


The 5-port valve is to the left and the extra water pump is to the right.


This shows the hose between the T-conector (upper left corner) and the 5-port valve (deep down in the lower mid location of the image).

The dash board of T4s are made to measure for the 7-day multi-timer.



I didn't buy a new timer. I sourced a used one from a scrap-yard. It came from a MB Sprinter, but it's the same timer. I think the same timer is used for both 12v and 24v systems, and it's just the bulb one has to swap.

There's some photos in the following thread showing what it looks like when I added the plate heat matrix between the 5-port valve and the T-connector.

http://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=99324&highlight=ebersp%E4cher&page=3
 

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Wow, it's a lot more involved than I had first thought. I'll focus on getting the thing in working order first, then start finding parts to convert it to a parking heater...
...but as I said in my first post, I'm really impressed with what people do to their vans, and how knowledgeable and helpful they are :) Living in Norway, I'd have to pay a small fortune to go to a mechanic for most anything. The how-to's on here have saved me a lot already, especially with the ball joint I changed today.. and troubleshooting some motor issues when I bought it last year.
 

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Wow, it's a lot more involved than I had first thought. I'll focus on getting the thing in working order first, then start finding parts to convert it to a parking heater...
well I think sokrates by the looks of it has taken it to the next level, Im hoping the basic conversion to parking heater isnt quite as involved ! I think this just entails altering the wiring to allow the heater to run with engine off, and also the aux pump. but was hoping that no changes to the plumbing would be necessary. i dont need it to heat the van when camping, I have an airtronic for that, just want it to preheat the engine a bit before starting it on cold mornings. probably a kenlowe or similar would be easier for this .... or a defa block heater ? ?

thanks for the interesting info though sokrates, i have done a lot of reading and am aware of the very helpful wiki page, but thanks for he link anyway. i remember reading your thread about the heat exchanger idea for the shower - ingenious !
 
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