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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all
I would like to share my experiences and assist anyone that is trawling the forums for information on retrofitting Cruise Control (with Trip/DIS) and upgrading the BCM to your T5.1GP. I’ve added the extra information below that I had to trawl for.


1. Check your BCM part number (either through VCDS or by pulling the panel by the drivers right knee). If you've a BCM part number 70937086, you need another BCM. If you've got 70937087 or above, you don't need to worry about it, just continue with the instructions with your kit.
2. If you need a different BCM, you can get one second hand. You don’t need a new one. I bought mine for £85 off ebay (ensure you have a money back guarantee) but you will need to recode it using VCDS.
• Perform a full scan on your existing BCM and make sure you take a copy of the coding (this makes a copy of the coding of all the modules within the BCM for use later), both save with VCDS and also copy to Notepad.
• Disconnect vehicle battery (and if you’ve got a Camper, disconnect the Leisure battery too!!!)
• Swap the BCM’s. Reconnect (both) the battery and fire up VCDS. Perform a full scan (and Save). You will notice that there are more modules within the BCM, along with more faulted modules. Navigate to the BCM coding (don’t go to Long Code helper) and paste the old BCM code into the ‘new code’ box and ‘do it’. Confirm the re-code.
• The new BCM needs to learn your key remote fobs (key adaptation) for the central locking. Go to the BCM within VCDS and select Adaptation. Select 00 and delete all previous keys saved. Then, with both keys available to you in the vehicle, click the dropdown to Channel 1, leave the value at 0, click Test, then Save (this opens a ‘listening’ mode) – then press a button on the remote in the ignition. The indicators flash to acknowledge the new code – that key is now coded to the BCM. Close down VCDS to the home page, swap keys in the ignition and perform the above again with the next key. Navigate back to the BCM home page and perform a scan and delete any saved faults (a Remote Control fault can linger but that’s from when you deleted all previous keys). THAT’S IT! You have now got a BCM ready to add Cruise Control to.

A note on Auto Windows after battery removal – you will need to train your windows for the One Shot again – full down and hold for few seconds, same for up. May need to repeat a few times but soon comes good.

3. Perform the retrofit of cabling in accordance with the instructions that came with the kit.
• Air bag removal - Plenty of videos regarding removing the air bag. I used a short flat blade screwdriver and my phone ‘selfy’ camera – a twist and off it popped (less than a minute). Usual safety with batteries disconnected.
• Steering wheel removal – I purchased ‘Tool Hub 9116-XZNM12L Long Bit 75mm - Spline XZN M12’ off ebay for £2.50. 3/8” wrench and socket and that was ready to come off in less than a minute. I scribed a line on the shaft in line with the master detent of the steering wheel for re-installation. I secured the clock spring housing with insulation tape to keep it in the same place.

• Adding Trip/DIS/MFA- I opted for adding the Trip Stalk and the extra wiring. This is 3 extra wires that go from the steering wheel connection in the column to the Blue plug in the back of the instrument cluster.
• Pre-label the cables to correspond to the instructions for ease – you can do this when the kit arrives and waiting for it to stop raining.
• To remove the instrument cluster – There are 2 screws on the underside of the instrument cluster – remove them and push the cluster towards the drivers seat (rearwards) by getting your hand up the hidden of the cluster. The connector pops off and then perform the 3 cable installation. Keep the cluster out as it’s easier to route the BCM, power and ECU cabling along the main harness at the back of the cluster.
• BCM Wiring – This was straight forward, with no issues.
• Relay Wiring – To access the relay, release the wiring mount and get in to release the relay base. Untangle the relay connector from the loom and get it out by the accelerator pedal. You need some specific tooling to release the connecter in port 8, which I didn’t have, so I made my own.
• Relay Connector release tooling¬ – Grab an old wiper blade and pull the spring steel out of the rubber blade. With your trusty Dremel, grind it down narrow enough to fit, bend it in half, bend the tips a tad, ensure it’s de-burred and release the contacts with it.
• Engine bay wiring – Had to extend the wire that goes to the ECU as my kit was for the LHD version. That was easy until you get to the ‘E-Box’
• E-Box Wiring – Remove the battery, battery shelf and E-Box sealed lid. Remove the 2 connectors off the ECU (requires the retention bracket removal via single screw). Disconnect the Power lead to the fused Bus Bar (the nut is captive on the lead). Release the fuse carrier and move out the way a little. Release the relay carrier and maybe a connector or 2 to allow the carrier up enough to see the black relay at the bottom. Grab the harness inside and gently ease up to allow access of the black relay connector – remove the connector, release the secondary lock and
perform the wiring connection.

4. Recode the ECU and BCM to tell them that you have CCS (Cruise Control). You may get a warning pop up saying ‘uninitiated control module’ with WSC/Importer/Equipment data required. I chose ‘No’ and the module code was entered automatically from the module and the re-code was accepted. This occurred on both ECU and BCM successfully.

5. Road test. It worked and so did the trip/DIS.

So this cost me £85 from ebay for the BCM, £135 from VW Direct for the new stalks/CCS kit, plus the DIS/MFA wires and I borrowed the VCDS from a mate.

Hope this is of some help to someone.

Location of the BCM with the Black and White connectors on the front


LH - Old BCM. RH - New BCM. You can see the extra connections on the RHS


The blue plug on the back of the cluster. When the lock is removed, it's no longer blue.




Thos shows the location of the relay, fitted to the right of the BCM
 

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Nice one Rob, im in two minds to do myself or long drive to one of the guys on here.
Used to fit alarms, tvs etc into cars but not done in 15 years, so should be still there somewhere.

Looked on the bay but could not find any used BCMs, i have MFSW think its only replace BCM, one wire to engine bay and not too sure about extra wires but will study your thread near the time if i can find BCM.

Should be a stick, thanks dude A:
 

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Grab the harness inside and gently ease up to allow access of the black relay connector – remove the connector, release the secondary lock and
perform the wiring connection.


this is the bit I am cursing / stuck on.

how do you remove the connector... its so fidly to get to, it looks like it has a release catch on both sides of the connector but... how do you unclip both sides at once...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You need to release enough connectors to allow the connector rack up high enough to gain access. It has a secondary lock that you'll have to release to allow the crimp in, but check, check and double check before you push it home. I think get enough light in there and get it up high and it's actually quite easy.
 

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Cheers...
Will give it another go.
How did you get the wire through in to the box. Did you drill a hole or is there another route you can use.

Sent from my Redmi Note 3 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #7
On the near side of the ebox, the main feeder cable comes in via a large grommet. You can either buddy up through the grommet or drill a hole adjacent to it and add a new grommet. Be mindful of the ridge on the outside of the box (about 25mm from the top edge) as this will affect how the grommet seals. I added some black silicone sealant to a new grommet to ensure a good water seal and, as my kit was for a LH drive, I had to extend this cable and so made the inline crimp in the ebox. The other inline crimp was behind the air filter box where the bonnet release cable goes through the bulkhead. I ran it through with convoluted sleeving along the bonnet release cable, then down underneath the N/S headlight unit.
 

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Below are the numbers I've recorded so I'm hoping you can tell me which one or two or three I need to replace

Component :- BCM T5GP M++4 H47 0254

Revision :- BM047001

Serial Number :- 0428 254120264

Coding :- A0A0303A0E212031002008102C2B8C500000430F6006000032 0000000000

VCID :- 389AF2EF8B5C1BD23D0E3D-806C

Plus when doing the recode is it just cut and paste or are there any other codes required.

Sorry to be a pain
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The 'Coding' hex string with lots of zero's at the end is the one you need. Copy and paste to avoid errors.
 

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Cheers Rob, I've sorted the coding but can't work out how to code the fobs, tried to use your information but can't find where to find the correct section to use.

Is it the same section / module as where I coded the BCM I've central electrics (09) if so I tried there and then adaptation but am lost after that, can't see where to delete old code or get the lights to flash when pressing the button on the fob, any ideas ? :*
 

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Discussion Starter #11
For the Key Adaptation, this is where I thought I'd just wasted my money. The VCDS process doesn't work as advertised on the T5, but this is the process that I found on the forums:
Clear the existing keys under Key Adaptation in the BCM control interface (channel 00, test and save-(confirmation required)). * It's at this point that you can't add a channel as per other instructions Googled, so click the drop down to channel 1 (key adaptation), leave the value at 0, then click Test, then Save. This opens a listening port, so press the remote button in the ignition. The indicators flash. That key is now adapted to the BCM.* Come back out to the homepage GUI, turn off the ignition, swap keys and then go back in and repeat the *-* above to add the second key.
 

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I have input the code as per instructions on here copy and paste and the new BCM shows same coding as my old one did but have lots of issues as you can see
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Go to the the individual modules that are showing faulted/no coms, test them and clear any codes.
 
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