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OK. How I did mine. First off I cut off the terminal on the long wire that has to go across the engine bay. It is too short anyway so needs extending. Make sure you leave enough wire with the terminal so you can re-use it. A couple of foot of wire left with it is plenty. Working from inside the van, tape the cut end of the wire left on the loom to a couple of feet of stiff wire (like a coat hanger) and push this through the grommet alongside the bonnet release cable. This gets you into the engine bay. I cable tied the wire along the bonnet cable as far as it would go. At some point you will run out of wire and need to add a new length of wire to join it to the bit you cut off. You can do this later.

Working now by the battery. Remove battery and the covers to access the box of tricks below. Standing at the front, looking into the box you need to be working on the vertical bank of wired connections closest to the front of the box. The one you are looking for is the lowest block on the right hand side as viewed. Unfortunately to get down that low means unplugging many of the blocks from above it in order to gain access by unclipping & pulling the whole plastic carrier gently up as high as possible. Not hard, just awkward. Make notes so you know which ones go back where (though it is colour coded I think!). Instructions talk about 2 wires you might confuse, but if you get right down in to the bottom right hand connection block (as viewed from the front) then you will have the right one. Do the wire swap as per instructions, drill a hole in the side of the box and fit grommet and pull free end of the wire through. You now fit it all back together and splice in an appropriate length of wire to join the 2 free ends together. Simples :)
HTHs
 

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Its hard to find a decent route through the engine bay if you follow instructions and take it through the boot/grommet for the bonnet release bowden cable on the right side, at some point Ill be rerouting the ebox wire through the dash and coming through a grommet behind the battery.
 

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Thanks guys, I spent what little time I had, routing the wire through the dash and used the grommet next to the battery. I now have the wire to the EBox, but on gaining access it looks like i need to undo the wire bank to the right, which are held by a black metal cylinder lock with a pin going through. I could not gain enough movement to access the black relay as yet and run out of time. So now will need to wait until Thursday. Any clue as to how I unlock the cylinder that hold the wire bank directly in front of the 7 main live wires would be really appreciated.Thanks so far been a great help.
 

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When I retrofit cruise for customers I run the cable which goes to the Black Plug under battery compartment in the van over to the passenger side then through the gromet which the bonnet release would go through if it was side of the van. Nice and easy. I even managed to unpick the tape and pull use the wiring without extending it! But it is easier to extend!
 

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Yes done that already, but looking for guidance on gaining access to the black relay at the bottom of the chain of relays. I want to disconnect the black cylinder plug that restricts all the wires going to these relays under the battery, just thick and can't work out how to undo it. Or is there an easier way/
 

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Right here is what I do on the battery side start to finish

Remove Battery

Remove Plastics around battery

Remove Battery Tray

Remove the entire plastic cover from the wiring box (T20 Torx)

Reach down to the very bottom of the multi plugs, its VERY awkward and you need the very bottom black plug

Plug into PIN 1

Drill 10mm Hole near earth cable which enters box closest to wing

Connect Wiring

Refit all above
 

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MrKnifey, the relay access is the only problem I have found, there is such a junction of stiff wiring going over the top it is preventing me getting access. I can't see how I would be able to connect a wire to a relay I can only just about touch. The only way I can see is to release the junction of wires in the cylinder connecter over to the right (as you look at the engine compartment). This may allow enough slack to lift the really block. Or am I looking at this wrong. Tugging on the relay block dent sound like a wise move. But if correct how do I undo the cylinder connector. I did take a picture but page tells me wrong format. Very frustrating I was thinking of training a gerbil, but I am sure there is a solution that I am not seeing.
 

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Hi!
i`ve retrofitted cruise control on my 14 plate t5 and it works fine.had to change BCM (fitted 090 D) also fitted mfsw.
at the moment have a problem with my front windows-dont work.vcds throw up two faults-terminal 30 left (01516) and window switch left opec circuit (00912)!!!
any ideas please???
 

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Thanks Rob63 for this thread. I installed a Cruise Control in 2012, but now have the MFD DIS cabling as well and the instructions are sketchy. You are a life saver!!!
 

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Hello all
I would like to share my experiences and assist anyone that is trawling the forums for information on retrofitting Cruise Control (with Trip/DIS) and upgrading the BCM to your T5.1GP. I’ve added the extra information below that I had to trawl for.


1. Check your BCM part number (either through VCDS or by pulling the panel by the drivers right knee). If you've a BCM part number 70937086, you need another BCM. If you've got 70937087 or above, you don't need to worry about it, just continue with the instructions with your kit.
2. If you need a different BCM, you can get one second hand. You don’t need a new one. I bought mine for £85 off ebay (ensure you have a money back guarantee) but you will need to recode it using VCDS.
• Perform a full scan on your existing BCM and make sure you take a copy of the coding (this makes a copy of the coding of all the modules within the BCM for use later), both save with VCDS and also copy to Notepad.
• Disconnect vehicle battery (and if you’ve got a Camper, disconnect the Leisure battery too!!!)
• Swap the BCM’s. Reconnect (both) the battery and fire up VCDS. Perform a full scan (and Save). You will notice that there are more modules within the BCM, along with more faulted modules. Navigate to the BCM coding (don’t go to Long Code helper) and paste the old BCM code into the ‘new code’ box and ‘do it’. Confirm the re-code.
• The new BCM needs to learn your key remote fobs (key adaptation) for the central locking. Go to the BCM within VCDS and select Adaptation. Select 00 and delete all previous keys saved. Then, with both keys available to you in the vehicle, click the dropdown to Channel 1, leave the value at 0, click Test, then Save (this opens a ‘listening’ mode) – then press a button on the remote in the ignition. The indicators flash to acknowledge the new code – that key is now coded to the BCM. Close down VCDS to the home page, swap keys in the ignition and perform the above again with the next key. Navigate back to the BCM home page and perform a scan and delete any saved faults (a Remote Control fault can linger but that’s from when you deleted all previous keys). THAT’S IT! You have now got a BCM ready to add Cruise Control to.

A note on Auto Windows after battery removal – you will need to train your windows for the One Shot again – full down and hold for few seconds, same for up. May need to repeat a few times but soon comes good.

3. Perform the retrofit of cabling in accordance with the instructions that came with the kit.
• Air bag removal - Plenty of videos regarding removing the air bag. I used a short flat blade screwdriver and my phone ‘selfy’ camera – a twist and off it popped (less than a minute). Usual safety with batteries disconnected.
• Steering wheel removal – I purchased ‘Tool Hub 9116-XZNM12L Long Bit 75mm - Spline XZN M12’ off ebay for £2.50. 3/8” wrench and socket and that was ready to come off in less than a minute. I scribed a line on the shaft in line with the master detent of the steering wheel for re-installation. I secured the clock spring housing with insulation tape to keep it in the same place.

• Adding Trip/DIS/MFA- I opted for adding the Trip Stalk and the extra wiring. This is 3 extra wires that go from the steering wheel connection in the column to the Blue plug in the back of the instrument cluster.
• Pre-label the cables to correspond to the instructions for ease – you can do this when the kit arrives and waiting for it to stop raining.
• To remove the instrument cluster – There are 2 screws on the underside of the instrument cluster – remove them and push the cluster towards the drivers seat (rearwards) by getting your hand up the hidden of the cluster. The connector pops off and then perform the 3 cable installation. Keep the cluster out as it’s easier to route the BCM, power and ECU cabling along the main harness at the back of the cluster.
• BCM Wiring – This was straight forward, with no issues.
• Relay Wiring – To access the relay, release the wiring mount and get in to release the relay base. Untangle the relay connector from the loom and get it out by the accelerator pedal. You need some specific tooling to release the connecter in port 8, which I didn’t have, so I made my own.
• Relay Connector release tooling¬ – Grab an old wiper blade and pull the spring steel out of the rubber blade. With your trusty Dremel, grind it down narrow enough to fit, bend it in half, bend the tips a tad, ensure it’s de-burred and release the contacts with it.
• Engine bay wiring – Had to extend the wire that goes to the ECU as my kit was for the LHD version. That was easy until you get to the ‘E-Box’
• E-Box Wiring – Remove the battery, battery shelf and E-Box sealed lid. Remove the 2 connectors off the ECU (requires the retention bracket removal via single screw). Disconnect the Power lead to the fused Bus Bar (the nut is captive on the lead). Release the fuse carrier and move out the way a little. Release the relay carrier and maybe a connector or 2 to allow the carrier up enough to see the black relay at the bottom. Grab the harness inside and gently ease up to allow access of the black relay connector – remove the connector, release the secondary lock and
perform the wiring connection.

4. Recode the ECU and BCM to tell them that you have CCS (Cruise Control). You may get a warning pop up saying ‘uninitiated control module’ with WSC/Importer/Equipment data required. I chose ‘No’ and the module code was entered automatically from the module and the re-code was accepted. This occurred on both ECU and BCM successfully.

5. Road test. It worked and so did the trip/DIS.

So this cost me £85 from ebay for the BCM, £135 from VW Direct for the new stalks/CCS kit, plus the DIS/MFA wires and I borrowed the VCDS from a mate.

Hope this is of some help to someone.

Location of the BCM with the Black and White connectors on the front


LH - Old BCM. RH - New BCM. You can see the extra connections on the RHS


The blue plug on the back of the cluster. When the lock is removed, it's no longer blue.




Thos shows the location of the relay, fitted to the right of the BCM
Hi,

Ive got this in the middle of being fitted, think ive got to the right relay under the dash now (to the right of the BCM behind a metal panel) just struggling to get the wire out of the plug (without the correct toolI: ) Ill figure it out somehow.

My instructions do not cover the MFD wiring though, can you remember the pin numbers that the 3 wires go to in the steering wheel plug and instrument panel plug?

Thanks
 

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Hi all
Right I’ve fitted cruise stalk with trip
All wiring done 6 I think was to the steering column another 4 to bcm one to the horrible relay nd then the dreaded one under the battery
Now trying to code the cruise and my vag com coding 11 is greyed out so cant use
So my question is
Is there anyone in Sheffield area with Vag com that could help me out
Thanks in advance
Frustrating as done lol the hard work ?
 

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The correct one under the battery? there are 2 connectors in there that look the same, its usually the one right at the bottom.
 

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Hi all,

I was hoping someone could help me out with an issue I am having following this process.
I have my new BCM which is hopefully compatible. (going from 7H0937086D - 7H0937087K )

I have autos canned the original unit and saved the long line of code.
Next I removed the battery terminal and swapped out the BCM, reconnected power and connected VCDS.

Under Cent Elec I have pasted the code and was given the 'coding accepted' message. Next I went to reprogram the keys however this is where I ran into difficulty and the save & test buttons were greyed out.

I ran auto scan on the new BCM and noticed I have a fault on '01336 - Company Data Bus for Comfort System '.

I double checked the coding on this module and it appears to be the same. Here is the auto scan from the new module:

Sunday,03,March,2019,19:54:29:53583
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 10 x64
VCDS Version: 18.9.1.0 (x64)
Data version: 20190114 DS296.0
www.Ross-Tech.com


VIN: WV1ZZZ7HZBH046729 License Plate: DN60KXC
Mileage: 215920km-134166mi Repair Order:



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Chassis Type: 7H-VN75 (6N0)
Scan: 01 03 04 09 15 17 19 25 56

VIN: WV1ZZZ7HZBH046729 Mileage: 215920km-134166miles

01-Engine -- Status: OK 0000
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000
04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000
09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: OK 0000
15-Airbags -- Status: OK 0000
17-Instruments -- Status: Malfunction 0010
19-CAN Gateway -- Status: OK 0000
25-Immobilizer -- Status: OK 0000
56-Radio -- Status: OK 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine (J623-CAAA) Labels:. 03L-906-022-CAA.clb
Part No SW: 03L 906 022 CB HW: 03L 907 309 K
Component: R4 2,0L EDC X37 9116
Revision: 26X37--- Serial number: 00000000000000
Coding: 01114010230400080000
Shop #: WSC 92521 052 00000
ASAM Dataset: EV_ECM20TDI01103L906022CB 002012
ROD: EV_ECM20TDI01103L906022CB_002.rod
VCID: 67D79C809EBC9B727C-8032

No fault code found.
Readiness: 0 0 0 0 0

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes (-----) Labels: 7E0-907-37x-MK25AXT.clb
Part No SW: 7E0 907 379 G HW: 7E0 907 379 E
Component: ESP MK25A XT H43 0105
Revision: 00H43001
Coding: 508724AD89A80A9B24A99173A96710
Shop #: WSC 02736 790 49152
VCID: 366901C4819632FA37-8062

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 09: Cent. Elect. (J519) Labels:. 7H0-937-08x-09.clb
Part No SW: 7H0 937 087 K HW: 7H0 937 087
Component: BCM T5GP H+4 H32 0407
Revision: BO032001 Serial number: 0533 086130199
Coding: A0A0303A0E212031000000103C2B8C100000430F60060000300000000000
Shop #: WSC 02736 790 12345
VCID: 3C7D13ECBFBAE8AAC1-8068

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags (J234) Labels:| 5K0-959-655.clb
Part No SW: 7E0 959 655 B HW: 7E0 959 655 B
Component: VW10Airbag009 H06 0013
Revision: -------- Serial number: 003HL001KY9J
Coding: 000000000000000000000000000000003039
Shop #: WSC 02734 790 50316
ASAM Dataset: EV_AirbaVW10BPAVN750 A01026
ROD: EV_AirbaVW10BPAVN750_VW12.rod
VCID: 356B06C8949039E23E-8060

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments (J285) Labels:| 5K0-920-xxx-17.clb-SRI1
Part No SW: 7E0 920 960 C HW: 7E0 920 960 C
Component: KOMBI H04 0204
Serial number: 00000000000000
Coding: 460000
Shop #: WSC 02736 790 50316
ASAM Dataset: EV_Kombi_UDS_VDD_RM09 A04086
ROD: EV_Kombi_UDS_VDD_RM09_004_VW32.rod
VCID: 2953DAB848286D02AA-807C

1 Fault Found:
9453842 - Oil Level Thermal Sensor
B1041 35 [009] - Signal high time > maximum
Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 222
Mileage: 215855 km
Date: 2019.03.03
Time: 00:18:55


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway (J533) Labels:. 6N0-909-901-6R.clb
Part No SW: 6N0 909 901 HW: 7H0 937 087
Component: GW-K-CAN TP20 H32 0407
Revision: BO032001
Coding: 042300
Shop #: WSC 02736 790 12345
VCID: 70E5F7DCA3725CCA2D-8024

1 Fault Found:
01336 - Company Data Bus for Comfort System
004 - No Signal/Communication
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100100
Fault Priority: 1
Fault Frequency: 3
Reset counter: 222
Mileage: 215927 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2013.07.24
Time: 00:00:03


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 25: Immobilizer (J334) Labels:| 5K0-920-xxx-25.clb
Part No SW: 5K0 953 234 HW: 5K0 953 234
Component: IMMO H04 0204
Serial number:
Coding: 000000
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
ASAM Dataset: EV_Immo_UDS_VDD_RM09 A03008
ROD: EV_Immo_UDS_VDD_RM09.rod
VCID: 6AD1E5B48DAEA61A63-803E

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 56: Radio
Cannot be reached

End-------------------------(Elapsed Time: 01:44)--------------------------
Any help with this would be appreciated as I am keen to move on and fit cruise, mfsw etc.

Thanks.
 

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Sorry, I just read the scan again. The company data bus fault is dated 24th July 2013.

Try clearing all of your fault codes first then re-scan. If they do not return then all is good and you can code in your cruise control.
 

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Thanks.
I have the original module fitted now and the fault is gone so I was thinking this may be an issue with the new BCM.
I just wanted to check I had followed the procedure correctly and not missed anything before starting returns on this unit.
 
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