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Hi, anyone had problems with their hot/cold control being really stiff?
my one got really hard to rotate past warm, so much so that it went "snap" the other day and now im stuck on cold!! (its a 2000,X by the way).
I had the same problem on my old work T4 (that was a 52 plate). has anyone got any advice before i try to prise my dash apart with a spoon.
 

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OOh pants...sounds like you've just snapped the small metal arm behind the controls. Sorry to say that all reports about replacing this in the past have been a little exxy.
Hope the cable's simply dislodged and can be re-secured for you.

Mine's sporadically tight then normal again. The fix is well documented on the old forum and done in 5 minutes...it's to do with the valve on one of the rad pipes in the engine bay and its cable control mounting. I've just been too lazy to do mine in the past so i'm not best to advise you on it.

Hopefully someone will be along in 5 minutes to clarify the fix.

(Dashboard comes apart easy for you though):gl
 

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Hi, anyone had problems with their hot/cold control being really stiff?
my one got really hard to rotate past warm, so much so that it went "snap" the other day and now im stuck on cold!! (its a 2000,X by the way).
I had the same problem on my old work T4 (that was a 52 plate). has anyone got any advice before i try to prise my dash apart with a spoon.
Yeah, mine too before I bought it, (looking at it there's a little cog thats shat its teeth in mine. As a quick fix to get some heat at least on these cold West Country mornings, pop the bonnet and you'll see the cable attached on the block top right, adjust this by hand and you'll get heat to you.

Switch consoles are aound £85 from VW..I know...I've asked!

;)

Cheers

Vyper
 

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OOh pants...sounds like you've just snapped the small metal arm behind the controls. Sorry to say that all reports about replacing this in the past have been a little exxy.
Hope the cable's simply dislodged and can be re-secured for you.
I've just been playing around with the heater on my recently acquired T4.... had hoped it would just be the cable clip popped off, but no such luck. :(

Stripped down the control box and found the metal arm looked intact, but the plastic hole it locates into had enlarged to the extent that the arm wouldn't locate in it when under any sort of load.

So I drilled a 2mm hole through the arm pivot, made a suitably small washer using an offcut from a big penny washer and a bit of messing about with the dremel, and used a little self tapper to hold the arm in place. It wasn't a perfect solution, as it meant the recirculate switch was now only held on by two of its four clips, but it still kind of worked... and anyway the hot/cold control was far more important....

Put it back together, braved the cold to go out and fit it all back in the van and hey presto! It all worked again!


But only twice. Now the gearwheel that actuates the arm had popped up off its spindle. :c :c :c

No reason why I couldn't lock that in place with a nut and bolt, and that's next on the list of things to try..... but it'll have to wait for another day once my sense of humour has returned. :D

Have been taking pics, so if it all works out OK I'll write up a how-to article.

[/quote]
Mine's sporadically tight then normal again. The fix is well documented on the old forum and done in 5 minutes...it's to do with the valve on one of the rad pipes in the engine bay and its cable control mounting. I've just been too lazy to do mine in the past so i'm not best to advise you on it.
[/QUOTE]

Old forum? :confused:

Would appreciate any help in finding out about how to reduce the chances of this happening again... especially if I end up having to fork out £80-odd on a new set of controls :)
 

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When we took mine apart there is a spiral groove on the cog wheel, that weakens and snaps so the arm drops out of the runner. We had another heater unit and it looks like VW tried to strengthen the part with more cross support, but it just goes in the next place its not supported!

we've fixed it after a fashion, next time we have a spare few hours and pull it all apart I'll line the groove with a thin slither of metal, then the arm can't break through the plastic. The other thing would be to get an alloy part machined or cast.

Just some thoughts.

Vyper
 

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When we took mine apart there is a spiral groove on the cog wheel, that weakens and snaps so the arm drops out of the runner. We had another heater unit and it looks like VW tried to strengthen the part with more cross support, but it just goes in the next place its not supported!

we've fixed it after a fashion, next time we have a spare few hours and pull it all apart I'll line the groove with a thin slither of metal, then the arm can't break through the plastic. The other thing would be to get an alloy part machined or cast.

Just some thoughts.

Vyper
Is yours breaking straight through the runner?

Here's mine -



You can see a little bit of damage to it on the inner track, in the bottom left corner of the pic.... just where the pin has rounded it off a little bit as it jumps out of the track.

If yours is actually breaking straight through the track, then I guess the easiest way to reinforce it would be to fill in all but the track gap with araldite or similar.
 

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tikone

I think as you said, you need to fix the original problem first.............get that cable running smoothly first then sort the dial out.........

Mine has the same problem (just stiff at the moment) so I'll be having a look on the old forum.........
 

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Guys

I can't seem to find the old forum (wasn't a t4 owner in those days)..............

Can anyone post a link?

Thanks
 

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I had a similar problem with mine, the ball ended up snapping off the end of the metal arm.

I bought a new set of controls from VW for about £90.

THe I took the offending cable out of the van ( takes about 2 minutes ) and use a silicone lubricant to lubricate it and make it smoother.

Then put the cable and the new controls back. Now it;s very easy to turn so it won't snap again.

Whole job was about 1 hour on a 2001 van.

I think the important thing is fixing the stiff cable in the first place!

Graeme
 

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Any chance of a photo to show which cable it is and where?

Cheers
Paul
If ya open the bonnet and look in, about 2/3rds of the way to the right (as you look at it from the front) there's a near vertical water hose with a tap on it half way up. That tap's connected to the cable you're looking at.

Should look a bit like what's in the first pic on this page



:)
 

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Nice one:

Quick Babelfish translation of the text on the above link. Not been through it to clean it up but you get the gist...

Heating cockpit: repair an article of T4zone.

It can happen that the outgoing air of the side aerators is tepid, even when the ordering of heating is set in the position "Cold". This is due to a bad closing of the tap of communication between the driving water circuit and the water heating circuit. When one is vis-a-vis with the engine, this tap visible, is placed on a hose connection: to identify it, it is enough to operate the button of adjustment of heating, and ramèner the lever of the tap to the hand to obtain a total closing. This solution can repair temporarily, the final remedy for this problem is described in images Ci below. The cause If the air is not complétement cold, it is that the pull knob does not return sufficiently forwards from T4. The cable suffisament does not push the lever of the tap even if the rotary ordering of the dashboard is à.fond on "Cold". The remedy the remedy is simple: it is necessary to shorten the sheath for rattrapper the play (if you already adjusted brakes of bicycle, you had already included/understood) Point of hello of this with dimensions Ci of T4, no adjustment is not possible. It will be necessary to work on board and to dismount partially the table of the same name. Deposit ashtray while pressing on the spring hidden under the ashtray To push in the direction of the yellow arrows for the following photographs Disassembling of the mask with dimensions ashtray Here 4 pins of maintenance of the thing: The second mask is more delicate to remove, help of a screwdriver and to work without forcing to find the good direction of the force to be exerted, and you will find... or you will break! Back of the 2° mask considering with dimensions ashtray To dismount the 8 screws Veiled the block is ready to be extracted by the lower trap door, giving access to cable-making. The lower trap door was prélablement dismounted (4 screws of maintenance, easy to remove) Disconnect this connector To rock the block To pass the block by the lower trap door, you will be able to thus have access by the top to the linkage. Déclipsez the clip, ravancer the sheath to compensate for the play and reclipsez. Attention, it is the stiff one: to strongly support with the right inch on the clip to crush the sheath and to block the clip by pushing with the left inch on the end of that Ci. Inches of butter to abstain from... 1 = clip 2 = sheath, here after adjustment 3 = cable 4 = pull knob To check the final play: I missed 3 mm of race to the cable, after adjustment, the play is hardly perceptible. Other causes possible If you have this problem whereas the lever is well into obstinate on the position "Cold", it is that the tap is out of use and does not close any more. In this case, a replacement of the tap is essential, and it will be necessary to add liquid cooling after this operation.
 

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mine has broke on a 97 and i got one from the crappys out of a mk3 golf and just took off a few bits and added mine for the rear heater etc its the same control you just add your t4 bits to it and only cost £5 so i got a spare too.
 

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Mine has been broken for about a year, and I have repaired it, and re-repaired it as all I could find on ebay were a tad too expensive.

The guys wanted 30notes for a Golf one, and I had previously bought one for a Passat, I think it was, and it did not do the job, I could not even salvage parts from it to make the original work.

I have just been pulling the ExAA switches off and doing the pulling by hand.

Its time to get a fix done for this. Thanks for inspiring me.

I will find a scrappy and get the right part.

Can anyone tell me if the M4 Golf one, although it has AC switch and I dont have on my 2001 T4, can I use the parts, or take parts from it.

Cheers.
 

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I've just started a similar thread in the Eclectrical section - I guess it's technically not electrical stuff though!

There must be a similar console that can be used instead of the T4 one, as there simply aren't ANY I can find second hand or new?

I'm trialing using a Mountain bike gear cable instead of the cable/rod thing which I think might work?
 
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