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Discussion Starter #1
So, I'm in the process of removing and replacing BOTH Drive Shafts on my 2009 T5 Caravelle.

Driver side / off side Driveshaft straight forward enough and came off quite easily...

Now. Trying to get off the Passenger Side Drive Shaft.

OMG, just cannot get the b****d off!!

I've tried literally everything from prising with crow bars and another pulling on it!

The bloody thing isn't budging one bit!

PLEASE :cry: Anyone got some pointers..?

Here's some generic pictures of how it looks: [note it isn't bolted on]



179774


179777
 

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Have you tried heating it with a flame? Failing that a grinder if it’s scrap anyway👍🏻
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Not sure I really want to angle grind it off! ..whilst working under the van :oops:

But.

the plot thickens...

"apparently" there is a mystery "snap ring" on the N/S Passenger side stub axle of the T5 - I guess to retain the drive shaft from moving, makes sense...

Just been under the van... can't see no bloody sign of it! ..arrrhhhh...

and looking at the photos above.. it's not logical where it would slide in / fit anyway?

help! 🤔😰

# 21 - Part # 0A5409413B

179790
 

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The snap ring sits in a grove on the stub shaft on the gearbox. There is a grove at a similar position on the driveshaft. You can see the grove in the top picture (near the bottom of the splines). You cannot get to the snap ring with the drive shaft in-situ. I have a 2005 Caravelle (Auto). Not sure how similar the driveshafts are, but my driveshaft is also retained with a snap ring. I used a bar to leaver it off. I applied pressure to the top whilst levering from underneath, I also kept turning it. It wasn't easy to get off. Has it moved at all? If you have created a little distance between the driveshaft and the gearbox casing then you are probably already over the snap ring. Be careful not to damage the gearbox casing.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes, I have a 2009 Caravelle Auto - so is probably identical to your setup also. What you say makes perfect sense and I can see how this "snap ring" retainer works...

But. I have tried applying a LOT of leaver pressure, [don't want to damage the gearbox casing :oops: ] ...and I don't think it's budged much, if at all.

When you say, you applied pressure to the top? - do you mean there were two of you levering simultaneously top and bottom, whilst turning it also?
 

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I've had a few drive shafts out over the years with jump rings but never a T5, what you generally have to do is either snatch the shaft out rather than a sustained lever or lever behind the joint & then whack it from behind with a lump hammer to shock it out, once the ring is out of the groove it will just pull out the rest of the way, not easy if there's no room though.
 

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As Roger says, I didn't apply sustained pressure but moved a lever bar forward and backwards to try and hit the end of the driveshaft. I used one hand to do this whilst the other hand pulled down on the front of the "cup" - to try and keep it aligned. I had a little play in mine, which may have helped. The problem is that there is no room to get a bar behind. Do you need to replace all of the driveshaft that is currently on the van.
 

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Be careful. I only had the N/S wheel off and had it on two axle stands and a jack. It is still not advisable to get underneath when doing this. Also meant to add that the snap ring is not circular, it protrudes on two sides and flattens on two sides (well mine did), so I think the splines may start to pass the ring more easily in certain positions. Was there a problem with the shaft?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
There was some play in the driver side / O/S drive shaft... .. and was starting to make a 'noise' on and off.. at over 110k miles now. ... so expected I guess.

The O/S stub axle splines are pretty knackered and dry / rusty after checking .... so will be replacing the entire shaft + stub now.

...so thought whilst replacing that may as well do / check the passenger side...

Little concerned about the condition of the passenger side stub axle, after see the o/s one.

I also have it up on 2x axle stands, but will also use my t/jacks for extra support - now you mention it (y)

But. Alas, as mentioned there is little to no space to give it a good whack from behind..

Shock approach is definitely the way.

But what you say about the splines may start to pass the ring more easily in certain positions .. sounds like a possibility..

Any other ideas.. or shall I just keep tugging at the b*****d?!
 

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Slide hammer?
Slide hammer would do it if you could attach it anyway, it would pull off with a big f-off puller but attaching that is the same problem even with the joint out. I'm sure Snap-on would do a special tool but it would be cheaper to scrap the van!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
As Roger says, I didn't apply sustained pressure but moved a lever bar forward and backwards to try and hit the end of the driveshaft. I used one hand to do this whilst the other hand pulled down on the front of the "cup" - to try and keep it aligned. I had a little play in mine, which may have helped. The problem is that there is no room to get a bar behind. Do you need to replace all of the driveshaft that is currently on the van.
Just curious - if I'm finding this n/s passenger side this difficult to remove...

How did you manage to successfully and 'fully' insert it back onto the stub axle, without pounding the **** out of it?!
 

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Haven't put the new one back on yet. I stupidly convinced myself that I should put new shocks and sportline springs on whilst I had the driveshaft off. Took it apart and I'm still waiting on the shocks (arrrr). Now I have started thinking about putting bigger front discs on as well. I need to get rid of those thoughts, because then I will need new bigger wheels as well. The lock down is costing my credit card a fortune. I am not sure how I will get it on without damaging it. I will most likely remove the driveshaft and hammer the end on and then put the rest of the shaft back on.

I have seen people using the old driveshaft as a slide hammer, If you haven't already tried it you could try re-attaching it and give it some welly, in and out. The problem with this is the flex in the rubber. You could try putting a G-clap either side or stabilising it somehow to get more of a shock. Thinking outside of the box, you could drill through the bottom (but be careful to only just drill through so as not to damage the end of the stub axle, as there is a bolt that needs undoing to remove the stub axle) and then use a puller (don't know if it is advisable to push in on the stub axle), you could try using clamps on the end or better still drilling and bolting a loop/bracket onto the remaining part so that you can either get a big bar and lever off something more substantial, or attach a slide hammer

I don't have a slide hammer, so I did think about drilling a couple of holes and then screwing or bolting a piece of wood into the stuck section, then screwing on a second piece of wood near to the end of the first length, support level and then use a lump hammer to hammer out (hope this makes sense) It would be better to use metal but would take about 30 seconds to fabricate. You will need some good drill bits though!
 

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I'm not familiar with the specific setup but looking at the pictures can't you punch a hole in the core plug in the inside end of the old coupling, lever it out then you can remove the bolt (20) in the end of the stub (29) & take the lot out assuming 23, 27 & 28 come out with it & 26 is the oil seal which will stay in the box, then deal with it on the bench.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I'm not familiar with the specific setup but looking at the pictures can't you punch a hole in the core plug in the inside end of the old coupling, lever it out then you can remove the bolt (20) in the end of the stub (29) & take the lot out assuming 23, 27 & 28 come out with it & 26 is the oil seal which will stay in the box, then deal with it on the bench.
I like that idea. Drilling a hole through the drive shaft end through, to allow access to the torx bolt on the stub axle... and remove the lot in one go.

Although, that drive shaft end casing does look rather beefy though...

+ wonder if lots of gear box oil will start seeping out though once stub axle is removed at same time?


Haven't put the new one back on yet. I stupidly convinced myself that I should put new shocks and sportline springs on whilst I had the driveshaft off. Took it apart and I'm still waiting on the shocks (arrrr). Now I have started thinking about putting bigger front discs on as well. I need to get rid of those thoughts, because then I will need new bigger wheels as well. The lock down is costing my credit card a fortune. I am not sure how I will get it on without damaging it. I will most likely remove the driveshaft and hammer the end on and then put the rest of the shaft back on.
Glad I'm not the only one crazily spending on the ol credit card... Must be something in the air :unsure:

I too am currently changing shocks, drop links, ball joints , wishbone bushes .. basically the whole bloody suspension!

Anyway, I digress... Did you check your passenger side stub axle, how did it look?
 

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It was O.K, but mine was lathered in lots of grease. I may still replace it. I think Rogers idea is a good one. You will be chucking everything anyway. The bolt is in a recess, so it is reasonably well protected, but you don't want to damage it, so be careful. If there is hardly any play and the stuck part is compatible with the new one (and in good condition), I would be tempted to clean it out and re-use it.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well, FINALLY managed to get the b*****d out - largely thanks to the idea put forward by Roger:

note: T40 Torx (I believe used only on Auto Trans - 6mm Allen on Manuals)

Need at LEAST 100mm long driver to get the bolt out!

179927



Arrrhhh S**T ! - there goes the tranny fluid... guess may as well change too (again)

179928
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Driver Side (O/S) Stub Axle... Rusted, dry and looks pretty bollixed:

Note. Looks like the Stub shaft Oil Seal? is broken in bits too

179929
 
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