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Well done!! Did the stub axle lever out easily? The autobox will feel better after a fluid change. Apparently, it is very important to get the level spot on. It should lightly weep when full with the van level and the fluid at 30oC (or 35-45oC depending on who you ask). I set the level at an estimated 30oC, but didn't have VCDS. I then took it to an independent VAG specialist to check. They said the level should be set at 35-45oC and let it down "a little bit", but said it would have been fine. Have you cleaned the stub axle, or was there no grease on it?
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
Million Dollar Question, coming up...

Driver Side (O/S) Stub Axle on LEFT
Passenger Side (N/S) Stub Axle on Right

Both original factory Stub axles.
..you can see the driver side Stub shaft Oil Seal is broken

But.
What on earth is that yellow / mustard colour stuff around thrust ring on the Passenger Side (N/S) Stub Axle ???

Some kind of adhesive? Bloody no wonder couldn't get it off .. anyone come across this before??

I'm guessing its put on there from factory as there are no bolts on Passenger Side Shaft to retain it / minimise it's movement?

179930
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Well done!! Did the stub axle lever out easily? The autobox will feel better after a fluid change. Apparently, it is very important to get the level spot on. It should lightly weep when full with the van level and the fluid at 30oC (or 35-45oC depending on who you ask). I set the level at an estimated 30oC, but didn't have VCDS. I then took it to an independent VAG specialist to check. They said the level should be set at 35-45oC and let it down "a little bit", but said it would have been fine. Have you cleaned the stub axle, or was there no grease on it?
cheers mate. After the bolt came out, whole lot just came off literally all by itself!

yeah, got VCDS and done complete trans overhaul 4 years ago. .. just got to fill it up again!

be back.. need to go out and pull apart the bloody thing... and do some investigations.....
 

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The N/S joint is held together with the snap ring, or is supposed to be. Others have said that the splines are only lightly greased at the factory. Mine was packed, so it must of been off at some point, but the dates stamped on the metal are consistent with it being original. I ordered a driveshaft and stub axle from GKN lobro, but cancelled the stub shaft when I realised it was for the O/S. All the stub shafts I looked at online stated O/S, so I was waiting for VW to re-open to order directly. Out of interest, do the two stub shafts that you removed (the bits that you can see) look identical?
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
Well Well Well. The T5 Saga continues..

I don't think there is this mysterious SNAP RING! [edit. Found it!]

Instead.

I think VW (in their infinite wisdom) did what we call in the 'trade' ... a bodge:

179931



..and used something that looks like expanding foam (or similar) to bond the Passenger Side Stub Axle to the drive shaft!

WHY? anyone?

I had to pound it off (on the bench) with chisel and hammer to separate the two little s***ts

Although, in a LOT better shape then the O/S - largely thanks to loads of factory GREASE - you can still see some shards of metal flake...
 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
NOW then.

I'm no conspiracy theorist - but why on earth did VW Grease up the Passenger Side Stub Axle ... only to leave THE O/S Driver SIDE?

I have lost count on how many threads I have read and how many T5 owners have, at a ill opportune moment had their O/S drive shaft FAIL?

Largely, on account of NO GREASE being put on from factory!

Anyone. know why VW have done this????

Picture below - both STUB AXLES appear to be identical in size etc..

179940
 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
LEFT - N/S Sub Axle - had lots of factory grease and in a LOT better shape

RIGHT - O/S Stub Axle, bone dry, metal shards broken off ... probably wont last too long, causing premature Drive Shaft Failure. Brass Ring aka "Stub shaft Oil Seal" broken too.
 

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When I initially checked the stub axle, I couldn't see the snap ring, This was partly due to the amount of grease and partly due to the shape. The snap ring sits flat in the grove on two sides and protrudes on two sides. When I was viewing from underneath and feeling on either side, I couldn't see or feel the snap ring. I thought it must be somewhere and that it must have pinged under the van. I spent ages looking on the floor and in the driveshaft. Finally, I cleaned the stub axle properly and could now see and feel it protruding top and bottom. Mine was still in-situ!
Mine didn't have anything but grease on it. I doubt yours had it that put on at the factory. Most likely bodged later. Have you had it since new?
 

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Mine had grease on the O/S and has more grease on it now, but that side had been replaced since the factory (probably more than once)!!

My N/S stub axle doesn't have the ring (brass?). Did you transfer that from the internal side?
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Yes, you're right! I had to give it a damn good cleaning.. and found the Mysterious SNAP ring!
 

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Discussion Starter #31 (Edited)
Apologies, [have updated pic ^^]

that Brass Ring aka "Stub shaft Oil Seal" should be at the bottom (gear box) side, like this:

SNAP ring is at the top

179939
 

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Discussion Starter #32
The Dilemma now is. How to insert the new Passenger Side Drive Shaft back on with the SNAP ring .. in SITU ?
 

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The splines inside the driveshaft have a much more gentle slope, which I am hoping will gradually pinch the clip in. It should go on much more easily than it came off. I am still inclined to take the casing off (the bit that was stuck) and if need be, hammer it on, so as not to damage the tripod joint. I will pack it with grease, but I am a bit worried that I will use too much and not be able to get it fully home. Once the old shaft was over the snap ring, it came off fairly easily. Not pull it straight off easy, but reasonable tapping and prying. I may just have a go with the whole shaft and see how easily it passes the snap ring. I will crack on when the shocks turn up and keep you posted.
 

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I am going mad. I had that shaft off and back on again last year when I did an engine swap. I don't think I put the shaft back on properly and that is why I have issues now. It went over the snap ring and down the splines fine. It never looked fully home, but likewise I couldn't pry it off either, so I convinced myself that it was properly engaged. After 6 months of normal driving, I heard a clunk from the N/S, checked the driveshaft and it was loose (about 10-15 mm off). I may have used too much grease. I will split the shaft, use less grease on the splines and hammer it home this time.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I am going mad.
Nah.. think it happens to all T5 owners at some stage during ownership!

BUT. please let us know how you get on with this..

Although, not sure using too much grease was the issue?...

Maybe there was some reason why VW (in their infinite wisdom) put that "yellow sealant" around the shaft / stub coupling on the Passenger Side..

I am SO concerned about this, ensuring that the Passenger Side drive shaft is "fully home"

+ Not really wanting that Drive Shaft to come 'loose' after ~6 months :oops:...

that I spent hours trawling this forum for someone who had done this:

T5 2.5 driveshaft and stub axle question
 

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I have found that VW usually make things that are quick to assemble, but difficult/slow to take apart. With a new shaft, stub axle, snap ring and grease, It will probably go on easy. I might have a bur or some damage to one of the splines that was stopping it going on. I damaged the collar getting it off, so it was really difficult to tell if it was fully engaged. It will be more obvious with a new shaft. I will put the end on tomorrow and let you know.
 

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Discussion Starter #37 (Edited)
ok cheers.. little anxious about putting on the N/S shaft securely!

So, you're not going to put on some "sealant" then...? [wondering if there's any recommendation, anywhere for this?]
 

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I removed the clip from the inner joint and pulled off the end section (that was stuck on your van), greased both sets of splines and...... pushed it straight on. I stopped at various places and pulled it back, found a bit of tension when it got to the snap ring, but a firm push "locked" it in place. The collar looks like it could go on further, but I have given it a good whack with a rubber mallet and used a drift and lump hammer and it won't go any further. I can't pry it back off either, so I am pretty sure it is in place. I have a tiny amount of play, but I didn't replace the stub axle in the end. I will be interested to know if you have any play at all with a new stub axle. You should have no trouble pushing the driveshaft straight on.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Still awaiting delivery of my 2x New GKN Lobro Stub Axles, hopefully any day now. To be honest, as you can see in the pics above - the passenger side stub looks actually in very good shape after 100k+ [due to the factory grease] .. and a new one maybe wasn't required in the end.

Doesn't matter now, will be replacing both shaft + stub (on both sides) together at the same time anyway [OE. GKN Lobro] - and will report on the fitting.

Great to learn your new shaft went on smoothly - did you have to align the shaft in any particular angle to overcome the snap ring?

and Do you have any concerns it may work loose again after ~6months.. or that some sealant should be used too?
 

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I didn't do anything special, just rotated until the splines lined up and then pushed it on straight. There is resistance when it gets to the snap ring, but a firm push was enough to overcome it. I would hold and push the end section rather than the shaft itself. I think the tripod will hit the end otherwise and might get damaged. Are the stub axles the same part number for both sides? Are they supplied with the snap ring?

I can't say whether it will stay put or not, only time will tell. If it doesn't, it will be down to wear on the stub axle or snap ring.

Still waiting on my B8's. I ordered them on the 11th and they still haven't arrived. Getting silly now!!
 
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