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Discussion Starter #41
I didn't do anything special, just rotated until the splines lined up and then pushed it on straight. There is resistance when it gets to the snap ring, but a firm push was enough to overcome it. I would hold and push the end section rather than the shaft itself. I think the tripod will hit the end otherwise and might get damaged. Are the stub axles the same part number for both sides? Are they supplied with the snap ring?

I can't say whether it will stay put or not, only time will tell. If it doesn't, it will be down to wear on the stub axle or snap ring.

Still waiting on my B8's. I ordered them on the 11th and they still haven't arrived. Getting silly now!!
ok, good to know just required a firm push on and over the 'snap ring' ... guess / hope, there's NO movement on the shaft if you give it a tug back and forth?

The Stub Axle are indeed the same part number for both sides, and for the 6-Speed Automatic Transmission (different for manuals) , it is:

VW Part # 09k409352
GKN LÖBRO 305618


Judging from their website / library picture, it does come complete with the gear box side Oil Seal [brass ring] and looks like the SNAP ring too (on the side near the bolt) :

btw. anyone confirm the torque spec for the stub bolt?

180091
 

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Discussion Starter #42
I am going mad. I had that shaft off and back on again last year when I did an engine swap. I don't think I put the shaft back on properly and that is why I have issues now. It went over the snap ring and down the splines fine. It never looked fully home, but likewise I couldn't pry it off either, so I convinced myself that it was properly engaged. After 6 months of normal driving, I heard a clunk from the N/S, checked the driveshaft and it was loose (about 10-15 mm off). I may have used too much grease. I will split the shaft, use less grease on the splines and hammer it home this time.
Well. Here we are again.

I managed to successfully push the near-side driveshaft over the snap-ring and drive it fully home onto the stub axle. Did this back in July..

Few months later, this is how the new near-side [passenger side] driveshaft looks:

183875


Funny that. Driveshaft now also is about 10-15mm off the gearbox.. another pic:

183876
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Maybe there was some reason why VW (in their infinite wisdom) put that "yellow sealant" around the shaft / stub coupling on the Passenger Side..

I am SO concerned about this, ensuring that the Passenger Side drive shaft is "fully home"

+ Not really wanting that Drive Shaft to come 'loose' after ~6 months :oops:...
Definitely going MAD too ... and SPOKE TOO SOON..

forget 6 months.. didn't even get as far as 3 :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #44
-Has anyone on this forum ever replaced the near-side [passenger side] DriveShaft?

And how would one go about ensuring the DriveShaft doesn't come away from Stub Axle as in mine and Bennymassive's case?
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Not sure I really want to pull out my silicone sealant gun

..or maybe there is no other way :unsure:
 

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I've had both the drive shafts out on mine a few times over the last 118k/16 years. Twice for greasing and once for the gearbox strip. Mine is a manual trans not auto. With that type of internal circlip if it is correctly seated there is usually a tiny amount of in and out movement. It is because the groove for the circlip is fractionally wider than the circlip so it springs in fully. Outer CV joints on most cars work the same way. I always look for that tiny amount of slack as a marker that they have fully seated. As a general rule, once clicked into place they never come off. If the splines are damaged it is possible that it never got quite fully on. If I'm in any doubt I give the end of the drive shaft a whack with a (copper!) hammer and recheck for that slack again.

That goo sounds like someone has had the same problem before and bodged it up.

The T5 shafts are always tight to come off, you just have to faff around with different bars, bendy bars are no good. They usually just suddenly pop out just when you are really despairing. Yours did look like a rusty git though! What you could try now is take the 3 bottom ball joint bolts off and bar the lower arm down a bit. That should allow the hub to be able to swing inwards further than usual and give the shaft a good old nudge into place. Once it's home you should feel that minute clearance on the inner joint by gripping the shank of the shaft (so you are only testing the inner joint.) After that it shouldn't come out again unless something else is seriously amiss.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
So. By checking with the previous original owner [I'm only the 2nd], both the driveshafts were indeed original from factory and have never been replaced previously.

This was also checked + backed up by looking at the date stamps on both of the original shafts that came off which tie up with year of manufacture.

It's apparent to me VW put that 'yellow sealant' from factory on these Auto Transmissions [not sure about the manuals], in a bid to ensure there would be no movement on the nearside DriveShaft from the Stub Axle - like I and Bennymassive have encountered.

183893
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Mine is a manual trans not auto. With that type of internal circlip if it is correctly seated there is usually a tiny amount of in and out movement. It is because the groove for the circlip is fractionally wider than the circlip so it springs in fully.
Would agree there might be a tiny amount of movement in or out, when fully seated [although mine had none] - mine looks like it's just coming off the Stub Axle now..

Obviously, the off-side [driver's side] has the two bolts holding the Driveshaft securely onto the Stub Axle, pictured, but this is not the case on the nearside - hence why I assume VW put that 'yellow sealant' in as a replacement

183895
 

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Discussion Starter #49
I've had both the drive shafts out on mine a few times over the last 118k/16 years.
Curious mate, on your manual near-side [passenger side] DriveShaft - is it only the circlip also holding it onto the Stub Axle?

If so, does your DriveShaft look like mine ie. ~10-15mm away from the Gearbox?

Obviously, mine wasn't like that when I fitted it back in July - and neither was the original [due to the yellow sealant]
 

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Discussion Starter #50
I think I have no choice but to dismantle it again - and put some kind of sealant [as per factory] between the new DriveShaft and Stub Axle.

I really don't want it coming loose again..

-What would you guys recommend?
 

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Looking at your pics again I think yours does look a bit different in design. I don't remember that gap on mine. The stub shaft on mine is held by the usual central bolt and the shaft is held only by the circlip. Your yellow stuff is holding the bearing on the stub shaft into the case? You can get all sorts of levels of bonding/retaining stuff for bearings. Some have different amount of grip and some will bond a bearing which has already turned in the case to different levels depending how loose it is. You don't want to overdo it! Something like this might do it if it will not stay in place.
 

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Looking at your pics again I think yours does look a bit different in design. I don't remember that gap on mine. The stub shaft on mine is held by the usual central bolt and the shaft is held only by the circlip. Your yellow stuff is holding the bearing on the stub shaft into the case? You can get all sorts of levels of bonding/retaining stuff for bearings. Some have different amount of grip and some will bond a bearing which has already turned in the case to different levels depending how loose it is. You don't want to overdo it! Something like this might do it if it will not stay in place.

I used Loctite 638 which I got for £8 when I did my gearbox but that needed a stronger bond.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Yes, same setup in that stub shaft is held in with central bolt and near-side [passenger side] DriveShaft held in by the circlip.

I hope / think the circlip is doing it's job of retaining the driveshaft - but that gap of now 10-15mm still looks quite worrying... I think your suggestion of Loctite 638 is a good one - albeit I think it may be a bit too 'thin' as an bonding agent..

183918
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Once the DriveShaft is fully driven home in and over the circlip and onto the Stub Shaft..

I'm not entirely sure how 'close' the two components mate? - if that makes sense...

I was thinking along the lines of some bonding agent in similar consistency to silicone adhesive (bit thicker) to provide better contact between the two ? :unsure:
 

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Yes, that looks like it has come adrift! The collar should overlap with the gearbox casting, so unless the collar is loose and has moved (which it doesn't look like it has) the shaft has come off the snap ring and is free.
 

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I am fairly sure my driveshaft wasn't fully engaged when it came loose. I would try and reset it as it is, but if your are going to dismantle it, at least it will come off easily. I removed the cup off the tripod and hammered it on and then re-attached the shaft with a new boot clip. As T5 TDI stated, there is a little for and back play when it is engaged. However, if you do the same you will probably need to repack the joint, as the grease will have thinned and be difficult to retain. Regarding the snap ring, I think I may have packed the splines with too much grease last time and this may have prevented it becoming fully engaged.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
"I removed the cup off the tripod and hammered it on and [I mean I hammered it on] then re-attached the shaft with a new boot clip."

..and not even 3 months later

my fear came True - The B*****D STILL went adrift !!
 

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Discussion Starter #59
I believe VW knew that at some stage [who knows when] maybe the 'snap-ring' alone - was NOT sufficient at preventing the DriveShaft coming adrift from the stub-shaft / Gearbox casing.

Hence, why that mysterious 'yellow sealant' was present and put on at the factory - to bond the bloody things together.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
think any variant of Loctite might be a bit too 'thin' as an bonding agent to firmly bond the DriveShaft to stub-shaft

As I'm not entirely sure how 'close' the two components mate, and really have no idea what VW used - I was thinking of putting a small circular bead of either :
  • Sikaflex 512 Adhesive
  • CT1 Unique Sealant & Construction Adhesive
-What do you guys think of either or have any suggestions please?
 
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