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i thought i would post this how to with photos( as best i can) i had the dreaded leak and came to this site, and read some posts which were very handy, just thought i would share what i got up to today freezing my ass off. i changed the o ring and bush, some change just o ring, some o ring bush and spindle, (price is the thing, and how worn the parts are)

STEP 1. if you need the number from the pump, you will need to take off grill remove fans from rad unclip rad and move to one side. the numbers are a bugger to see if you dont do this, the numbers are facing down wards on the side of the pump in tiny writting i tried a mirror but couldnt see, you will have lots of room to get at the pump so do it any way.

this is my pump 1.9 non turbo, turbos have some extra cubbings, but should be simalar
STEP2. on top of the spindle with the 10mm nut there should be a grove, mark the position of the groove/line, so you can put it back where you started,( i diddnt do this, but with a bit of trial and error got it right again) this next pic is the spindle with the groove/line

STEP3. pop off the throttle cable and dampener bar thingy, undo banjo fitting. shown on first pic blue pipe going to pump. 17mm i think, carefull not to loose 2 copper washers, i put the bolt back into pump with washers
STEP 4. undo 10mm nut on the leaky spindle and remove the arm and return spring which will be under tension, you should have a nut,washer,2 plastic spacer things and the spring, remember how they go, maybe lay them out in order.
STEP 5. remove throttle cable bracket, there is a spring to a lever at the back of my pump, i think its for the manual choke, that just pushes off. undo the 4 allen bolts holding case on. there is a little spring inside that has to go back on to the main pump from the casing when refitting.
this next pic is the spring inside the case.
and the next pic is where it clips back on

STEP 6. i took the spindle off to replace the o ring, the spindle is atached to a spirng thing, the whole unit just turns up and slides out, if you are going to go whole hog replace spindle unit, i removed old o ring, cleaned the groove and replace o ring.and

STEP 7. the bush. my old bush was brass the new one black steel, i had the old bush driven out and new driven in at the place a got the o ring and bush from, you could do it yourself but carefull not to braek the casing, it cost 20 quid all in bush replaced and parts.
next pic is black steel bush poking from top of casing

STEP 8. remove this bolt thing for refitting its very important to remove it with out adjusting it. must be taken out with the nut DONT unscrew it form the end
undo from where my index finger is not the screw on the end, its somthing to do with the fueling, the reason to remove it is,it pushes against a spring lever in the pump and the case will be tricky to get back on. next pic is the bolt thingy inside casing
next pic is lever where bolt thingy pushes against

STEP 9 right the spindle has been replaced or o ring replaced and spindle refitted if removed, and the bush has been replaced in the casing, clean both faces of body and case, lube the spindle and new o ring, cos its gunna be a tighter fit than the old nackerd one, i used diesel (there will be plenty sat in the pump).
STEP 10. put the whole lot back together.
start by conecting the little spring from case to pump, slide spindle up shaft/bush, it might be tight on the seal, so i tempery put the throttle arm plate on and tightend the 10mm nut which pulled the spindle up through the bush and then took the arm off again.
so now the spring is conected inside the pump and the spindle is up inside the bush. put your allen bolts back in and tighten, put your fuel bolt thingy back in the side of the pump, put your banjo fitting back on, spring thing at the back of pump just pushes back on, throttle cable arm back on then put the return spring and plastic spacers and the throttle arm plate with line in the spindle in right place and tighten 10mm nut. the return spring on the throttle plate is a bit of a bugger but not to bad, i think thats it.
fire her up for a test and put the rest of the van back together
 

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Re: HOW TO diesel pump throttle spindle leak

you are a t4 god i bought the seals and a new bush today and are fitting them tomorrow so your how to post is perfect timing i was wondering about the spring now i know many thanks out of interest how long does it take to do it
 

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Re: HOW TO diesel pump throttle spindle leak

it took me a few hours, i had to walk to get the bits:(. that took an hour. and i had a million cups of tea and fags, to stop me from freezing, but i would say if you have the bits already and somewhere warm it would take 30mins to an hour .its not a bad job just fiddely, but dont rush just take your time. you could spend an hour looking for something you dropped on the floorT:
 

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Re: HOW TO diesel pump throttle spindle leak

its going to be cold tomorrow but i should be able to last a couple of hours so i should be ok i will let you know how i get on
 

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Re: HOW TO diesel pump throttle spindle leak

Good job fella, great to see a newbie giving something back to the forum so early on, Kudos to you! I will stick it in the technical articles section in all its glory T:T:T:T:

Just one little comment to add - Some people might find it easier to just cantilever the rad forward as this usually gives enough access to do the job, might be worth a quick edit to mention this in your how to on top of what you have done.
 

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hi scotty did mine today and did the same as you and forgot to mark throttle arm/shaft put it all back together turned the key it started straight away on idle let it warm a little and give it a rev woops it wont rev up i knew it was the throttle arm in the wrong position on the shaft so removed it and moved it around till it reved up ok and idled ok, its all running now with no leaks so im happy but it seems slow to rev up its still covered in snow and im so cold i have not cleared the snow of it and driven it, would you have any idea why i seems slow to pick up when revved i cant think of anything but im sure its something simple(famous last words) thanks for the how to i dont think i could have done it without it ken
 

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glad it was of some use to you, the only things i can think of are maybe the spindle needs to go round a bit more, it might only be reving at 3/4 throttle or somthing, dont foget it has to idle to power the headlights heater fan and cooling fans, when they come on, on my van i turned the spindle round till the revs picked up a bit, then put the arm on tempry and reved with my hand till it sounded right, then put it on properly, the only other thing is there might still be a bit of air coming up the fuel line as it would of drained backa bit, test drive it might clear, or you will feel if its not quite at full throttle, thats my guess any wayT:
 

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hi scotty i did the same with the throttle arm its a balance between idle and top revs ,i am pretty sure i am getting top revs its just a bit slow getting there funny you should mention air there is a lot coming up at the moment i will take it out tomorrow snow permitting we are forcast a lot of it tonight i will let you know how i get on cheers ken
 

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just thought of another thing it may be, i had a sluggish throttle pedal, felt like there was a delay before it slowley reved. inside the throttle cable from the pedal to the pump there is a spring (its inside the cable cover cant see it ) i think its to give a smooth throttle responce, but they get all gunked up and it dosnt matter how fast you push the pedal its the spring that has to pull the pump arm, if its all gunked up it pulls slowley, to fix the problem i used the magic fix all liquid WD40, take the cable off of pedal end and push through bulk head.
then you can stand in front of the van and pull on the cable to see it move the pump arm, i held it up in the air and squirted wd down it and pulled and relessed till it was free, worth doing anyway, my van went like a rocket after i done this (well a 1.9 diesel rocket)

scottyT:
 

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Good thread

One question ?

How did you know that the seals had gone ? was the engine struggling to idle and poor top end speed due to the pump pressure being low ?

many thanks if you can answer, my enegine is struggling to idle and i think this is the issue been quoted £150 for pump rebuild but can do it myslef if that's the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Good thread

One question ?

How did you know that the seals had gone ? was the engine struggling to idle and poor top end speed due to the pump pressure being low ?

many thanks if you can answer, my enegine is struggling to idle and i think this is the issue been quoted £150 for pump rebuild but can do it myslef if that's the issue.
hi , my van was running fine, i just happend to be having a look at my radiator cos its steaming a bit, and by chance noticed the leak, it i very easy to spot if its leaking bad,

i think when the seal and bush is warn, it still kind of seals, but one little nock or push downwards on the arm, breaks what ever seal there is and it starts ing out.
i think i must of nocked it or something when messing around with the rad,

cos it was a in i didnt run the van after that, so i guess the pressure bein low could give the rough idle, have a look at the spindle and see what you can seeT:
 

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hi scotty i did the same with the throttle arm its a balance between idle and top revs ,i am pretty sure i am getting top revs its just a bit slow getting there funny you should mention air there is a lot coming up at the moment i will take it out tomorrow snow permitting we are forcast a lot of it tonight i will let you know how i get on cheers ken
is your van a turbo, check all pipes, vac pipes, plugs etc, if its a turbo guess it has an intercooler check all pipes are good and tight,
if any thing eles popsinto my head i will post
 

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hi brookster not sure why scotty did his but mine started to leak from under the throttle linkage ..i did not have any running problems at all just a leak exept it would not start but that was cured by new glow plugs
 

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hi scotty all done it idles and revs ok now it was just getting the balance right between the throttle arm and the fuel screw took it for a drive and adjusted it til i got it right many thanks for your how to and your time be lucky ken
 

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Excellent guide from scottyvdub.

I did mine on Saturday for the same reason, leaky spindle seals and a possible MOT fail. Not difference in driveability with leaky seals, just a mess under the bonnet and a constant smell of diesel. Badly leaking pumps will dump diesel into the alternator.

Basically there’s nothing much new here, just a few more pictures which might help. This isn’t a very hard job but probably not one for cold fingers. If you take your time, you’re probably looking at a couple of hours.

I moved the rad forward to gain access – remove two 13mm bolts from the top of the bonnet locking platform, 3 screws in the top of the grille and 2 screws in the lower grille. The grilles and the panel above the bumper will pull off if you make a wire hook and get it in the panel gap underneath the headlamp at the outer edge of the metal panel. Pull off both sides but keep hold of the panel or it’ll end up on the floor.

With this removed, grab hold of the loop that the bonnet latches on to and lift it up and forwards. This should leave you with this:



The parts you need look like this – available from Bosch diesel service centres amongst other places. Use this link to find one local to you

http://www.boschautoparts.co.uk/bdl/loc_search.asp?strLocator=Service

Parts are a new spindle bush, top cover seal and 2 O rings – cost around £15

Throttle spindles were on back order but they said that it’s usually the bush and O rings that wear.



Remove steel clip from end of throttle cable then pull rubber grommet on throttle cable out of the throttle cable bracket – no need to remove clip on outer cable and disturb the adjustment. Remove 17mm bolt from fuel line banjo, the banjo has a copper washer each side.



Remove the bolts that retain the throttle cable bracket to the top of the pump.


Remove 2 torx bolts holding the EGR switch bracket to the top of the pump and move switch aside. Remove 10mm nut from the top of the throttle spindle shaft.



I didn’t mark the EGR switch operating lever position on the throttle shaft – there was enough dirt on it to see where it went on. Remove the torx bolt holding it on and lift the lever off the throttle shaft.



Now you DO NEED TO MARK THE THROTTLE ARM POSITION ON THE SHAFT. The end of the shaft has a small groove in it, I used a junior hacksaw to cut a nick in the arm that aligned with the groove. The arm can now be removed. Once the arm comes off the splines on the shaft, the spring will turn the arm 180 degrees clockwise. You need to remember this when you re-fit the arm later.



Remove the cold start rod from the cold start lever – carefully push the rod rearwards towards the engine and it will just unclip from the arm.



Remove the 4 torx bolts that retain the top of the pump so it can be removed. You’ll have some diesel leak out as the cover comes off. I used a bunch of rags to soak it up and keep it out of the alternator.

I pushed the throttle spindle down out of the pump top as I lifted it off so it left the throttle mechanism on the pump. The only thing to watch for is the little cold start spring under the top cover. Scottyvdub has a good photo of this, it needs to be carefully unclipped as you lift the top of the pump off. Don’t try lifting the cover up too far – you’ll stretch the spring. Just gently move the top cover across towards the right and the spring will unclip from the lever in the main part of the pump. With the cover off, this is what you’ll see inside.



The throttle spindle mechanism will lift off the lever in the pump, note where there are 2 small flats on the mechanism just to the right of the main spring – this is where the lever needs to be so it can lift off. In this picture you can see the spindle mechanism and the pump top. The O ring on the spindle shaft is the one to replace (see also the wear pattern on the spindle). The old bronze bush can be seen in the top cover.



I pressed out the old bush in a vice using some small sockets and pressed the new one in the same. Be careful not to damage the bush or the top cover. Old and new bushes together.



The second O ring goes on the cold start lever on the back of the pump. Remove the 10mm nut from the lever, remove the lever from the shaft, lift out the small washer and the O ring is just inside the hole. Cold start lever is shown here



Reassemble is fairly straightforward; I fitted the spindle mechanism back onto the pump lever first so I knew it was correctly fitted.

Remove the idle fueling screw from the top cover – see scottyvdubs picture.

Fit the new top cover seal into the groove in the top cover.

Then, while holding the small cold start spring with my right hand so it is was pointing down under the top cover, I got the top cover about an inch above the pump and hooked the end of the spring onto the lever in the main pump. The spring enters the lever from the right and is tensioned towards the left.

With the cold start spring in its correct position, the top cover can be lowered onto the throttle spindle. A dab of grease around the spindle O ring will aid fitting. Push the spindle up into the top cover as the cover is lowered but be careful not to dislodge the spindle mechanism from the main pump lever.

The rest of the reassemble is, in true Haynes style, a reversal of removal. Check the throttle arm position on the shaft lines up with the previous mark and that the throttle return spring is correctly fitted. If you look down into the fuel line hole before you re-fit the banjo bolt, you will see the spindle mechanism moving from left to right as you move the throttle.

Make sure the throttle operates smoothly before starting the engine and the revs pick up correctly.

Refit the rad and front grilles.

Feel the smugness at a job well done.
 

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Right. Your both LEGENDS. Scottyvdub + Greenmachine. Fuel coming out of throttle spindle. took it to a couple garages, they didn't even want to know they just told me to go to a diesel pump specialist. Big numbers were being thrown around, i started to myself because im poor. Read the thread, got the parts, 2hours and £17 later, done.
Awesome guides, Stoked!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
:):):):):):):):):):)
 

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awesome write up guys going to be doing this tomorrow hope it all goes well .
just one thing not quite sure what to mark so i know the throttle position when i put it back together?
 

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Probably a bit late for a response but you only need to mark the throttle arm (the bit with the ball on it) relative to the throttle spindle. A stated above, I used a junior hacksaw to cut a small nick in the edge of the throttle are that was in line with the groove in the end of the throttle spindle.

If you look at my 4th photo you can see the mak I made in the EGR lever (that wasn't needed), the mark on the throttle lever would be in line with this but on the edge of the throttle lever, sort of at the 10 o'clock position in the photo, just above the tab than engages with the return spring.
 
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