OK - pretty straight forward to carry out, but I always feel better if I can look at some pics and a run through before I start. In that vein, I thought I would return the favour for all the times I've seen and used similar threads myself. Please forgive the slightly incomplete picture run but some didn't come out. Also PLEASE remember to be careful not to contaminate your pads/discs when using release oil around your brake assembly...
1. Unhook the lever spring using long nose pliers and use a good dose of wd40 and a wire brush to clean up the area around the central nut.
2. Remove the nut (mine was a 13mm) and clean around the face of the splines at the bottom of the shaft with wire brush and more wd40.
3. Use a pair of pump pliers to hold the face of the plate and wiggle it off of the splines. DO NOT LEVER THE PLATE OFF. There is a rubber cup sitting behind the plate and you can't see it (I've shown the off-side caliper here, the rest of the pics show the nearside caliper). I missed this at first and split the rubber dust cup trying to lever it off.
As you can see in the next pic, the inside face of the plate is severely corroded and the corrosion has scored and cut the inside of the dust cup. You can also see the split in the rubber cup where I tried to lever the plate off.
Time for some more wd40 and wire brush treatment.
When you clean the base plate, you're going to need to use something to protect the rubber dust cup and also hold it out of the way of the wire brush. I used an old chisel which allowed me to get back to the metal all the way round.
OK - the next pic shows the inside of the plate where I have cleaned the corrosion away. I gave this a smear of copper grease before I put it back on. I also packed copper grease inside the rubber dust cup.
The plate taps easily back onto the splines in the fully disengaged position, right up against the stop edge that limits the lever's travel.
All that is left to do now is replace the nut and pop the spring back in. Job done. I don't have a picture of it completely re-assembled as that was one of the pics that didn't come out.
I hope this helps someone. I was right on the verge of buying a new caliper until I tried this. Worked like a dream and may well give me another couple of years out of an otherwise knackered bit of kit.
Forgot to mention. I replaced the caliper springs as well. The VAG replacements were £3.80 for the pair and were much stronger than the worn pair that I took off.
Top post!! Thanks very much, was pricing up callipers when I came across this. I didn't think it would help my super seized handbrake, gave it a go as I thought it was only a waste of 10min if it didn't. and guess what!! it did just the trickT:
Keep up the great posts guys!! Cheers
Did this the other day on mine. I disconnected the handbrake cable and wedged in a big slogged screwdriver where the ball joint end sits and levered it back and forth. The little clip came loose bloody quickly with the help of some wd40/release oil.
I'm thinking to replace that M8 central nut for a cap nut (acorn nut), I believe with this nut it will be more protected.
Did anyone try it?
The only difference is the lack of built-in washer on the acorn nut.
I done this work yesterday but I reused the original 13 mm nut. I cleaned up the arm with a wire brush and grinding wheel. Finally, I replaced the old spring with a new item. So far, so good.
It will work for a while but unless you completely strip the caliper and fit a new spindle the problem will return,also copper grease is no good for this application as it dries out ant actually retains water,at least use some marine water proof grease T:
It will work for a while but unless you completely strip the caliper and fit a new spindle the problem will return,also copper grease is no good for this application as it dries out ant actually retains water,at least use some marine water proof grease T:
When you say spindle, are you referring to the splined shaft that the arm attached to ? I didn't bother greasing mine as I would be afraid it would attract grit from road dirt etc. My understanding was that the rubber cup was there to prevent dirt/grit from getting between the two ? Old vans, eh ?! I:
When you say spindle, are you referring to the splined shaft that the arm attached to ? I didn't bother greasing mine as I would be afraid it would attract grit from road dirt etc. My understanding was that the rubber cup was there to prevent dirt/grit from getting between the two ? Old vans, eh ?! I:
I'm in the process of identifying what my brake components are, and this has revealed a few mysteries regarding my PR Codes:
(a) I have the PR Code '1AB' and see that it is described as 'Power Brake':
http://igorweb.org/equidec.aspx
I cannot find on the internet any alternative...
I can see someone has a similar issue on here just earlier today.
My ABS and yellow warning symbols are showing on the dash. I have fixed all the issues for my CT (MOT) apart from this one. As usual, I've left it till the last minute for my return visit which I have to do in the next two days...
hello, our vw t4 2.5 tdi have a problem with the ABS... the problem is that the abs light starts flashing faster and faster as we drive faster and faster until it is constant. under braking i can feel that the abs pump is working. also the red brake warning light comes on for a short time...
I have found a list of AA calipers in the threads but mine wasn't listed. These are marked as Girling 54. I am going to change disc and pads and can find one video on youtube on how to strip it. Any advise welcome. Rob
Hello all thanks for reading ...I am wanting to fit my front brake Calliper mount to hub and I am a bit unsure what torque setting I need ..it’s a 1995 t4 2.4 with PR code LP brakes solid disc floating caliper ..I am not sure what FNR caliper means and which one is mine cheers Haynes says 280nm...
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