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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I changed my drop links today these are the steps I took to do the job:

Tools required:
Trolley jack
Axle stands
21mm socket, ratchet , extension bar , ring spanner
Stock van jack
Centre hole punch or 3mm drill bit and drill

Materials:
2 x drop links
Copper slip spray or paste

There are different types of drop links, one type has a ball joint at one end, the type I have has a metal insert for the lower shock bolt to go through

First of jack up van and place axle stands under axle stand points and remove road wheels.



top tip : to stop metal on metal damage from trolley jack and axle stands on your chassis, use an ice hockey puck as in the picture above , only a few £s from ebay and they work a treat.

Next place trolley jack under lower arm where it joints the shock absorber and give a few pumps to take pressure of the bolt.



Next loosen of nut with 21mm socket, you might need to hold other end with spanner to keep in from turning



Remove bolt from lower arm / bottom of shock absorber

( this next bit my pics where corrupt so ill have to explain the best I can )

Drill a small hole about 3mm or use a centre punch create a hole / indentation in the end of the anti-roll bar as per green dot below



This gives the puller something to center on , as it has a sharp nipple on the end, this stops it slipping when in use



The threaded screw goes on to the hole you just drilled/punched

The claws go around the rear on the drop link ,



When in place like the above , start to screw the center screw clockwise, the claws will then pull the drop link off the shaft

You will then be left with this, note locating groove in shaft



Note the center hole in shaft

Below shows old and new drop link



To refit new part:

Squirt washing-up liquid into shaft and rubber bush

Place over shaft

The drop link now needs to be pressed onto end of anti-roll bar,

If you are doing drivers side turn steering wheels to full left lock( if passenger side, right lock)

Place stock car jack in its closed position in between hub assembly and start to crank it open until the arm comes in contact with the drop link



Keep screwing until the rubber is firmly over the end of the anti-roll bar



Once on push the drop link inboard of the anti-roll bar until it locates in its locating groove

Refit bolt to secure to lower arm and bottom of shock , cover bolt in copper paste before fitting

The finished article:




Time to complete : 1hr 30min

Took for a test drive and vastly improved handling, also seemed to improved what I thought was clutch judder ! might be in my head thou

Hope this helps someone out
 

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You can also do them without taking the wheel off. Did mine the other day in about ten mins. Turn the steering so you can get to the drop link, undo the bolt, pull the drop link off, change the bush, put the drop link back onto the bolt, then get your jack against the back of the wheel and pop it back on.
 

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You bin steeling them from the giants matches ? Lol
I worked in the Icebowl for 17 yrs & my boy played hockey for a cpl seasons & yea we go to all Giants games so get a few from there too I: we have a few rather special pucks too! :D
Your van is lookin well bud i see you out & about round the East quite a lot!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I worked in the Icebowl for 17 yrs & my boy played hockey for a cpl seasons & yea we go to all Giants games so get a few from there too I: we have a few rather special pucks too! :D
Your van is lookin well bud i see you out & about round the East quite a lot!
The guy who runs the pro shop in the ice bowl is selling the pucks on eBay for use on trolley jacks but I got 3 for the price he is selling one lol
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Good How To Gavin T:

Stickied for future use

:ILU:
Thanks for that , am doing anti-roll bushes and track rod ends tomorrow so I'll do another

@perky :
Was in bad books with misses for using the remainder of the fairy-up liquid, strange how they get so protective over such things, that and kitchen roll lol
 

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The guy who runs the pro shop in the ice bowl is selling the pucks on eBay for use on trolley jacks but I got 3 for the price he is selling one lol
He's probably gettin them free I: take a walk round the rink after a Giants practise & you'll pick up loads lol.......ill throw you a handfull if ya like T:
 

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You can also do them without taking the wheel off. Did mine the other day in about ten mins. Turn the steering so you can get to the drop link, undo the bolt, pull the drop link off, change the bush, put the drop link back onto the bolt, then get your jack against the back of the wheel and pop it back on.
do you need to jack the van up to do it with the wheels still on ?
 

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Excellent writeup indeedT:A:. Did mine the other day and the ARB Bushes as well. Used these to pull the drop link off and a bit of wood and a pry bar to pop back on with the aid of some lube. Took about 15-20 mins to do each drop link
 

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Thanks for the 'how-to'. Very good.

I gave up with using a puller and used a grinder to get the old drop links off the ARB. This took literally about 30 seconds each side followed by slicing the bush open with a stanley knife to remove it.

I also found that I could just about push the new drop link bush over the by hand once it had fairy liquid applied although it was a struggle. Luckily I had either side of a carport to brace my feet against or I would have resorted to the jack method described here.
 

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Thanks for this.

I did my droplink and shocks yesterday.

Had a bit of a hard time with lining up the jack to press them on, so I put the bottom bolt loosely thru the link and arm.
This then held the top end of the link in the correct position ans stopped the jack and link twisting off the end of the bar.

Now to change the inboard bushes. Wonder if some uprated ones would be better?
 

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You can actually use the puller to push the new links on -

Clamp a set of locking pliers ("mole-grips") to the ARB, and hook the puller legs on to this. You'll have to put a piece of flat steel over the face of the drop link but then by tightening the puller, it will push the new link most of the way onto the ARB - you can then get it seated with a bit of brute force and ignorance. This the method that is used in the Haynes manual.
 

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If you don't have a gear puller you can cut the outside part of the rubber off with a Stanley knife then slide the old drop link off the rubber. This leaves the rubber part on the ARB, this can then be cut off with the stanley. I did manage to fit the new ones with wash up liq and brute force but it wasn't easy. Left the wheels on too.
 
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