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How to strip your power steering rack down and renew the seals, just to note if you mess up and damage any part of the rack internals i won't be held responsible for you needing a new rack or it falling apart and you crashing the van heaven forbid:eek::eek::gl , a new one reconditioned is around 200 notes a new one considerably more and second hand you risk having the same leak so I decided it was worth giving it a go myself.

Instructions can be downloaded via my other post on How to remove your power steering rack, all stages are listed but its a bit muddled because several rack types are catered for at the same time. I hope this tutorial makes it a tad clearer.

Here goes;

1. First clean the externals of the rack to stop any crud getting in when you take it apart it also makes it a much more pleasurable experience.

2. Remove the pipes from the rack body;



3. Rotate the splined shaft of the pinion so that the plastic lug lines up with the slot on the rack body, make sure that the ram is equal/central i.e sticking out each side the same amount. Mark the position with tipex or scribe a line on rack body, plastic cup and on the top of splined shaft. It has to go back in the exact same position. As below. (pic was taken before cleaning!)



4. Next measure the ram protrusion from the body to end of ram and record the figure;



5. Mark the position of the tension plug, and drill out the 3 peening points with 4-5mm drill just to remove peening you should only need to go 1mm or so in.



6. Undo the plug count how many turns takes to remove (write down), remove o ring, spring and yoke;



7. Remove the cap and the nut under from the bottom of the pinion shaft ( you will need to hold the top of shaft on splines, be carefull not to damage them wrap in card and use mole grips or soft jaw grips).



8. Slide up and remove the plastic cap, remove the circlip.



9. Gently pull out the pinion shaft;



10. Remove the circlip from the end of rack;



11. Now pull out ram in direction of removed circlip and insert should come out with it as below, i have pointed out locations of various seals here;



12. Okay now to remove seals. Look inside the rack body you will see one seal inside pinion housing and one inside rack body half way down.
Look at the seals and take note which way round they are fitted, the one in rack body has a plastic washer and a collar behind it, tap out the seals with a suitable tool a screwdriver or drift, be CAREFULL you don't want to damage the sides of rack it's a bit tricky BE PATIENT all the bits are in the kit so don,t worry i found that it was easier to break up the plastic bits first then you can get on the edge of the seal easier A:;

Here are the seals;



13. Pull off the sleeve from the ram there is another seal,washer and collar in here and a rubber o ring on outside, remove seal in same manner as the one inside rack tube.

14. Right, I had two green seals in the kit these are for the ram so one inside tube and one inside sleeve, fit the collars, washer then seal the right way round T: (apply a small bit of grease to seal edges and on the inner edge).
Find a suitable sized tool to fit on the edge of seal, i used a socket and long extension, gently tap the seals into place.

15. Tap out the pinion seal and same as above applies to fitting.

16. Now for the ram there is a plastic seal with an o ring under remove both. Fit the new o ring (should be the single larger one in kit) and GENTLY fit the plastic seal putting one side in groove first then with a small screw driver coax the other side in DO NOT STRETCH it!!

17. As described in the below pic remove the small o ring from top of pinion shaft and slide off the top cup, you will see a bearing with seal behind it inside,



Using two sockets one on the edge bearing side and one seal side thats a snug fit in metal hole clamp in vice and this should push seal and bearing out in one go.

Fit the new seal with grease tapping it into place with a socket same diameter as seal then grease up bearing and press in using socket with vice as below.



18. Remove the plastic seals and o rings from pinion and fit new ones remembering NOT to stretch them!

19. Carefully put collar back onto pinion and fit new small o ring and larger external one (lube with grease).

20. Hold rack body upright in vice and lubricate ram and plastic seal with new PAS fluid, carefully lower in ram through seal rotating backward and forward as you push through seal, DO NOT allow to go right through just half way is good, once in seal lay rack flat again. Now push on sleeve to ram and into rack body. Fit circlip.

21. Rotate the ram so teeth are inline to mesh with pinion teeth when inserted.

22. Make sure the ram is pushed in so the measurement is the same as before you took it out;



23. Okay now to insert the pinion, the trick is to find the tooth that lines up with the mark on top follow it round and push in gently allow it to rotate try not to let the ram move, you are aiming to have all your marks alined as before you took it all apart.

24. Once satisfied your marks are alined push on the OLD plastic cap you marked to confirm alinement is good.

25. Grease the lower pinion bearing and refit the nut, torque to figure in instructions mine was 22 Nm.

26. Fit the new plastic guide to the yoke and a new o ring, grease the guiden and insert, followed by spring, o ring and plug.

27. Tighten the plug same amount of turns as removal and line up marks, the instructions give you exact measurements here to follow but mine is fine as was.

28. Fit the cap on bottom of pinion with some silicone sealer on threads.

29. Lastly put new seals on pipes an refit to rack.

30. Rack bushes can be done now if required you may need 2 people, just use 2 sockets in the vise and lube with some grease.H:

31. Fit back to van in reverse order get some new o rings for the pipes on van to rack.

32. I also fitted new tie rods aswell.

33.Fill with new PAS oil and run up check for leaks hopefully jobs a goodn A:A:A:A:
 

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Logged in but I can't see them..... Though I am on an iPad
 

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I can see them and my friend here can too on a different computer but only if he logs in ?? wierd:*
 

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I've just spent the weekend following the instructions on this post, replacing all the seals in my rack after a catastrophic failure that saw all the fluid dumped during the course of a day! :eek::(:blg

I just wanted to say a big thanks to Wagenman for taking the time to put this post together, its an absolute gem of a life saver!

Maybe doesnt quite mention how fiddly/frustrating it is to remove and refit the rack under the van, steering column was a b*tch to re-connect!

Its pretty strait forward to do this repair, i'm merely a 'weekend socket-set warrior' so if i can do it, most people on here could sort it too! T:

I reckon you've saved me £150 + garage fees there Wagenman, i owe you a pint! :cheers



 

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Hi Mate,

I'm inspired by your rack re-build but am struggling to find a seal kit! I was wondering if you can remember the number of seals you had to replace and if they all looked fairly standard? I'm considering stripping it down and going to our local hydraulic engineer place and getting them to order in seals like for like.

What do you reckon?

Otherwise it's £180 for a rebuilt one.
 

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Hi Mate,

I'm inspired by your rack re-build but am struggling to find a seal kit! I was wondering if you can remember the number of seals you had to replace and if they all looked fairly standard? I'm considering stripping it down and going to our local hydraulic engineer place and getting them to order in seals like for like.

What do you reckon?

Otherwise it's £180 for a rebuilt one.

Have you tried these guys? Thats where i got my kit, you get a bag of all the various bits needed...
http://www.autosuppliers.co.uk/
 

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Thanks for the how to. Being tighter than tight and a seal kit costing £140 + post I bought two 28 - 38 - 7 and one 26 - 37 - 7 oil seals when my rack boots started peeing fluid. Van incontinence cured for a tenner plus fluid. Removed old seals with plasterboard screws into back of seal, pulled with wire, without damaging plastic bushes. Rack seal pushes on with old seal on rack. Bottom pinion seal with old seal on pinion shaft. didn't replace upper pinion shaft seal as it was obviously not leaking, couldn't tell which of other seals was culprit due to fluid transfer through vent hole. Couple of hundred short journey miles in and still good.
 
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