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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
Tools needed:

19mm multipoint socket
Glowplug long spanner 12mm and 8mm the other end - Available at Halfords (picture in the glowplug guide linked below)
12mm long head socket

Torque wrench up to 50lbft
Adjustable wrench
13mm socket and 3/8" or 1/2" wrench
10mm socket

small - 2-3" and 6" extension for 3/8" wrench (only one extension is needed but a couple is a bonus)


3/8" Allen head bit (for pulley) (set available from machine mart)
VW cam locking tool
Cambelt tensioner tool


2 foot long 1/2" drive breaker bar (the camshaft bolt is tight!)

Good torch - a slim line one is ideal so you can move it around in the engine bay

Large pliers for removing spring clamps




New cambelt [available as a kit from GSF *www.gsfcarparts.co.uk
Cambelt tensioner

New 4 x allen head cheese head bolts for pulley [VW main dealer]
New bolts for alternator pulley [VW main dealer]
New Cam cover gasket (optional)




Procedure -

Remove the engine undershield (if fitted - 4 x 13mm bolts at each corner on mine)

Remove the intake pipe between the airbox and turbo inlet using pliers on the spring clamps.

Remove the cam cover using 10mm socket on the three bolts that hold it on (just prise the plastic covers off), be careful not to lose the metal and rubber washers that go underneath them. Place the cam cover on a clean surface.



Remove the plastic plug in the top of the gearbox housing (by the flywheel) - Just follow the dipstick tube down and it is to the left and below it on the gearbox housing.



Remove the 4 glowplugs using the guide here > http://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=20504
Just leave the link rail in place as much as possible as it’s a pain to get it back in position if you remove it.


Slacken the PS pulley allen bolts and remove the PS belt. Careful not to lose any spacers.



Now using a 13mm socket slacken the alternator top mount bolt a couple of turns, and remove the lower bolt from the adjuster. Using a helper or laid down using your knee or foot, push the alternator against its spring to enable you to remove the alt belt from the pulley.



Remove the water pump drive pulley (the alternator belt runs over it)


Ok, now put the van into 5th gear; make sure the wheels are chocked and secure so it can’t roll forward. Using your allen bit and wrench remove the 4 bits from the main pulley (now bin the bolts as they are one use).Take it out of gear again once they are loose.

Remove the main pulley *See above picture if you can’t find it!!!*. Remove the top timing belt cover by unclipping the 2 clips (one each side) and remove the central plastic locking plug. Lift it off.


Now remove the lower timing belt cover. Theres a couple of bolts holding it on.


Now using a 1/2" wrench and 19mm multi point socket on the big bolt visible in the centre of the main crank drive pulley, turn the engine clockwise until the notch on the BACK FACE of the pulley is facing towards the back of the van - 3'oclock position on a clock as you look behind the pulley (awkward to see). Check the cam lobes of Cylinder one (the one on the far left as you look at the engine from the front of the van) are both pointing outwards like in the picture below. (ignore the fact the head is not on the engine!)




Now using your torch, shine it in to the flywheel window and see if you can see the flywheel mark. Tweak the engine in tiny increments until you have it perfectly in line with the indicator triangle.



Now, if your engine is correctly timed to start with, the cam locking tool should slide straight into the end of the camshaft and lock it against the top of the cylinder head face....If it’s slightly out, don’t worry for now, just leave it as it is if you can’t get the tool in.

The locking tools


And the camshaft end slot...as you can see, mine was out slightly as the timing had slipped...
Fit the Cam locking tool into the groove in the end of the camshaft.



Put the 7mm drill bit into the IP to lock it in its current position? it won’t fit? are you sure....if not, again, your IP timing is also out!!! (but if so, then post up on the forum as its likely your main crankshaft gear has sheared the locating pin, and that is another guide altogether....!!!)



The main drive pulley/gear is shown in the picture below



If the camshaft and IP are both out, you will need to remove the main crank gear and inspect the crank nose and gear. To remove it set the engine at TDC (with belt on) Lock it in 5th gear, and undo the big 19mm bolt shown on the main crank gear above.
'
ok, so in an ideal world, You've set the flywheel to TDC, locked the IP and camshaft. Worst case, nothing lines up and you can only set the flywheel to TDC.
ok, slacken the cambelt tensioner and rotate it so the cam is in its slackest position. Now carefully remove the belt by teasing it off the cam pulley and IP pulley a bit at a time.

The tensioner is shown below



So now, the belt is off and your engine is locked (hopefully) at TDC

Ok, if your camshaft was slightly out, move it very gently using the cam gear so that the locking tool fits in.

If your IP wouldn’t lock, manually turn it until the locking slot is in the whereabouts of the position above PIC. Now manually tweak the pulley around until the 7mm drill bit slides home. But again, seek professional help if unsure as you could have issues!!

ok, back on track. At this point get your 13mm socket and wrench and slacken each of the three adjusting bolts on the front of the IP pulley (you will see why later. A couple of turns will do it.



Now remove the old tensioner and fit your new one. Fit the new one and hand tighten the bolt in so that you can still move the tensioner easily on its cam mechanism.

Now to loosen the camshaft pulley - take your adjustable wrench and put it on one of the visible cam lobes. You need to lock the cam from turning away from you, put one of the jaws on the long flatter side of the lobe and tighten the wheel until the other jaws touch the opposite side.(a helper is useful here to hold the wrench) Now get a breaker bar, put the 19mm socket on it and loosen the big bolt holding the camshaft gear on while holding the cam from moving with the wrench, under no circumstances rely on the cam locking tool to hold the cam or you WILL snap the camshaft quite possibly or something else. Keep trying until you crack the bolt loose, you could also use a gear holding tool off eBay to hold the pulley. Just undo the bolt a few turns until the cam gear rotates freely.


Now take the new belt and fit it carefully over the main drive pulley on the crank (take care not to move it even a fraction!). Now route the belt correctly, over the IP pulley so it fits on the edge of it, onto the tensioner and try and get the belt on to the edge of the cam pulley. Once you have it partially on I moved to the top side of the engine and nudge it on fully with both hands. Check the belt is nicely seated in the centre of all the pulleys and that it runs through the tensioner properly.

Now take your tensioner tool and have a 13mm spanner in the other hand and turn the tensioner clockwise using the two prongs/two holes. Check the crank pulley isn’t moving at all and gently tension the belt until you can twist it 45 degrees using your thumb and forefinger. This is done on the longest run of the belt.


Once you’re happy (don’t over tighten it...) tweak the 13mm nut on the tensioner until it nips up a bit and you can relax! Tighten the nut that holds the tensioner on but again, don’t over torque it. I think I set mine to about 25nm.


ok, now check your locking tools are still all in place and go and check the flywheel mark hasn’t moved..... If it is still dead on, move to the next stage, if it has moved slightly, undo the tensioner, remove the belt, tweak the flywheel back to TDC and start over. Its handy to have a helper jam a screwdriver in between a couple of flywheel teeth if your struggling, this will stop it moving slightly and ensure that the camshaft and IP pulleys take up the tension, not the crankshaft.

Now, once your happy all is good, tighten the bolts up again on the IP (the 3 adjustment nuts). Again, I did mine to about 30nm ish or basically what they felt like to take them off (by hand).

Now remove the IP locking drill bit

Now to the top again, clamp the camshaft again using your adjustable wrench, and tighten the cam pulley back up again to 45NM. Again, you should lock it only with the wrench and not the locking plate.

Remove the camshaft locking tool.

Now, using the 19mm bolt on the crank, turn the engine over one full cycle **I marked the main gear with a white paint pen so I could get it back to TDC easily without a helper* (2 rotations of the crank iirc) to check all is well. Set it to TDC using the flywheel and check your cam lock fits and the IP locker also fits ok.

Refit lower timing belt cover

Refit main pulley being sure to line up the little notch on its back to the notch on the crank drive pulley. Torque the new allen bolts up to 25nm

Refit the water pump pulley - torque bolts to 20nm ~

Refit the new alternator belt, again, push the alternator in on its spring until you can get the belt over the pulley, refit the lower bolt and torque to 20-25nm and the same for the upper one.

Refit the new PS belt. This is tensioned using the spacers that probably fell out when you removed it!
I found that with a new belt, I needed to use 2 spacers in the middle of the two halves, the 'spare' spacers go behind the pulley straight on to the face of the PS pump. The best way I found to do this is put the spare spacers on first and line up the holes, then arrange the two halves with spacers between and then place a couple of bolts loosely into the holes to hold it all in place. Now fit the belt in between the currently wobbly halves of the pulley and over the main pulley. Fit the other two bolts, you can manually push the belt so it is stretched towards the outside of the pulley as you tighten up the 4 bolts equally. When they are tight (20nm) the belt should be quite taught but so you can twist it maybe 90 degrees between thumb and forefinger. It should have decent tension when you press down on it and not be baggy!


Replace the cam cover using ideally a new gasket. Torque the 3 bolts down on the top of it to 20nm ~


Refit the glowplugs and link bar (see guide http://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=20504)

Refit the upper timing belt cover.

Refit the intake pipe to the airbox and turbo intake pipe.


The moment - go and start the van!!

Now make yourself a cuppa in the knowledge you just did the cambelt!






I will edit and update this guide as things come to me! As it was a few weeks since I did the cambelt. Hope you all find it useful :)
 

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Re: Cambelt replacement How to guide for 1.9TDi ABL engined T4

good write up veedubnut

may aswell just add a few bits to it as others find it easyer in diffrent ways .

on the older engines and pumps you will find that the hole that locks the fuel pump in place is actualy diffrent to the one shown , its around 14mm i found the big bolt from gearbox mount fitted perfect and actualy screws into the engine block as vw intended as the block is threaded for it .

not to sure what you have removed the glow plugs though i never had any problems but suppose this is matter of choice .

as for locking the cam i just use a steel plate always have used it as fits perfect and beats paying £15LOL: there is only one way the cam can go as the slot in the cam is actualy of centre so therefore making it inposible to get it wrong providing you do use a bit of steel think 7mm thick . if not i just used some 5mm and built up the thickness with electrical tape to make it a solid tight fit .

have a bottle of tipex around always comes in handy .

the tensinor is inportant otherwise total pain in the **** without it .

also as said make sure engine is turned all the way around by hand using 19mm spanner MAKE SURE OUT OF GEAR BEFORE TRYING . you will feel bit of resistance and a good air sound is good just give it second or 2 when starts getting hard then carry on spinning engine , will tell you if you got a healthy engine i suppose with good resistance .

its inportant as sometimes cam belts can jam or slip and you would rather have it slip while your moving it by hand rather than once started .

cant think of anything else to add realy but very simple job on the 1.9 few hrs max for first time diy after first one much quicker
 

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Re: Cambelt replacement How to guide for 1.9TDi ABL engined T4

Hi veedunut,
Started my cambelt change today but came across a problem. You recommended a 7mm drill bit in order to jam the injection pump. I could not fit a 7mm into the gap and could only fit a max of 6mm through the first slot and 5.5mm through the second slot. I plan to tamper tomorrow and try to adjust in order to get the 6mm to fit.

Did you get the size wrong or is my ABL 1.9 turbo diesel different?????

Look forward to your reply, Guy
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Re: Cambelt replacement How to guide for 1.9TDi ABL engined T4

Hi veedunut,
Started my cambelt change today but came across a problem. You recommended a 7mm drill bit in order to jam the injection pump. I could not fit a 7mm into the gap and could only fit a max of 6mm through the first slot and 5.5mm through the second slot. I plan to tamper tomorrow and try to adjust in order to get the 6mm to fit.

Did you get the size wrong or is my ABL 1.9 turbo diesel different?????

Look forward to your reply, Guy
hi guy

no, it was a 7mm I used and I know others who have used 7mm bits...

I doubt strongly yours is different?!!

Have you tried rotating the pulley slightly to see if you can jiggel a 7mm through? failing that, using a 5mm drill bit wont make a massive amount of difference I doubt T:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Re: Cambelt replacement How to guide for 1.9TDi ABL engined T4

The pulley on my injector pump looks nothing like the one pictured, are they different on older vans?
How so Jimmy? Ive not seen a different style one but they may exist! Can you upload a picture?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Re: Cambelt replacement How to guide for 1.9TDi ABL engined T4

Never seen that before?! and it looks like it has a keyway as well for the shaft?
Are you sure your engine is an ABL 1.9TD and not converted to run the ABL pump etc?
Engine pics and pm me the engine and chassis number if you want me to find out what the hells going on!
 

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Re: Cambelt replacement How to guide for 1.9TDi ABL engined T4

Never seen that before?! and it looks like it has a keyway as well for the shaft?
Are you sure your engine is an ABL 1.9TD and not converted to run the ABL pump etc?
Engine pics and pm me the engine and chassis number if you want me to find out what the hells going on!
Think its the norm mate as the manual i have for the early model is showing the solid fixed pulley. Timing is done by rotating the pump away from you to advance it and towards you to retard it.
 

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Hiya Great guide thanks, I am going to start my cambelt in a couple of weeks, is there

anything else you would suggest changing whilst I am doing it have 1.9 td engine 150 000
2001

thanks again

I have always wanted to change a cambelt, but never had the balls lol

You article has given me the courage Thanks
 

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Tools needed:

19mm multipoint socket
Glowplug long spanner 12mm and 8mm the other end - Available at Halfords (picture in the glowplug guide linked below)
12mm long head socket

Torque wrench up to 50lbft
Adjustable wrench
13mm socket and 3/8" or 1/2" wrench
10mm socket

small - 2-3" and 6" extension for 3/8" wrench (only one extension is needed but a couple is a bonus)


3/8" Allen head bit (for pulley) (set available from machine mart)
VW cam locking tool
Cambelt tensioner tool


2 foot long 1/2" drive breaker bar (the camshaft bolt is tight!)

Good torch - a slim line one is ideal so you can move it around in the engine bay

Large pliers for removing spring clamps




New cambelt [available as a kit from GSF *www.gsfcarparts.co.uk
Cambelt tensioner

New 4 x allen head cheese head bolts for pulley [VW main dealer]
New bolts for alternator pulley [VW main dealer]
New Cam cover gasket (optional)




Procedure -

Remove the engine undershield (if fitted - 4 x 13mm bolts at each corner on mine)

Remove the intake pipe between the airbox and turbo inlet using pliers on the spring clamps.

Remove the cam cover using 10mm socket on the three bolts that hold it on (just prise the plastic covers off), be careful not to lose the metal and rubber washers that go underneath them. Place the cam cover on a clean surface.



Remove the plastic plug in the top of the gearbox housing (by the flywheel) - Just follow the dipstick tube down and it is to the left and below it on the gearbox housing.



Remove the 4 glowplugs using the guide here > http://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=20504
Just leave the link rail in place as much as possible as it’s a pain to get it back in position if you remove it.


Slacken the PS pulley allen bolts and remove the PS belt. Careful not to lose any spacers.



Now using a 13mm socket slacken the alternator top mount bolt a couple of turns, and remove the lower bolt from the adjuster. Using a helper or laid down using your knee or foot, push the alternator against its spring to enable you to remove the alt belt from the pulley.



Remove the water pump drive pulley (the alternator belt runs over it)


Ok, now put the van into 5th gear; make sure the wheels are chocked and secure so it can’t roll forward. Using your allen bit and wrench remove the 4 bits from the main pulley (now bin the bolts as they are one use).Take it out of gear again once they are loose.

Remove the main pulley *See above picture if you can’t find it!!!*. Remove the top timing belt cover by unclipping the 2 clips (one each side) and remove the central plastic locking plug. Lift it off.


Now remove the lower timing belt cover. Theres a couple of bolts holding it on.


Now using a 1/2" wrench and 19mm multi point socket on the big bolt visible in the centre of the main crank drive pulley, turn the engine clockwise until the notch on the BACK FACE of the pulley is facing towards the back of the van - 3'oclock position on a clock as you look behind the pulley (awkward to see). Check the cam lobes of Cylinder one (the one on the far left as you look at the engine from the front of the van) are both pointing outwards like in the picture below. (ignore the fact the head is not on the engine!)




Now using your torch, shine it in to the flywheel window and see if you can see the flywheel mark. Tweak the engine in tiny increments until you have it perfectly in line with the indicator triangle.



Now, if your engine is correctly timed to start with, the cam locking tool should slide straight into the end of the camshaft and lock it against the top of the cylinder head face....If it’s slightly out, don’t worry for now, just leave it as it is if you can’t get the tool in.

The locking tools


And the camshaft end slot...as you can see, mine was out slightly as the timing had slipped...
Fit the Cam locking tool into the groove in the end of the camshaft.



Put the 7mm drill bit into the IP to lock it in its current position? it won’t fit? are you sure....if not, again, your IP timing is also out!!! (but if so, then post up on the forum as its likely your main crankshaft gear has sheared the locating pin, and that is another guide altogether....!!!)



The main drive pulley/gear is shown in the picture below



If the camshaft and IP are both out, you will need to remove the main crank gear and inspect the crank nose and gear. To remove it set the engine at TDC (with belt on) Lock it in 5th gear, and undo the big 19mm bolt shown on the main crank gear above.
'
ok, so in an ideal world, You've set the flywheel to TDC, locked the IP and camshaft. Worst case, nothing lines up and you can only set the flywheel to TDC.
ok, slacken the cambelt tensioner and rotate it so the cam is in its slackest position. Now carefully remove the belt by teasing it off the cam pulley and IP pulley a bit at a time.

The tensioner is shown below



So now, the belt is off and your engine is locked (hopefully) at TDC

Ok, if your camshaft was slightly out, move it very gently using the cam gear so that the locking tool fits in.

If your IP wouldn’t lock, manually turn it until the locking slot is in the whereabouts of the position above PIC. Now manually tweak the pulley around until the 7mm drill bit slides home. But again, seek professional help if unsure as you could have issues!!

ok, back on track. At this point get your 13mm socket and wrench and slacken each of the three adjusting bolts on the front of the IP pulley (you will see why later. A couple of turns will do it.



Now remove the old tensioner and fit your new one. Fit the new one and hand tighten the bolt in so that you can still move the tensioner easily on its cam mechanism.

Now to loosen the camshaft pulley - take your adjustable wrench and put it on one of the visible cam lobes. You need to lock the cam from turning away from you, put one of the jaws on the long flatter side of the lobe and tighten the wheel until the other jaws touch the opposite side.(a helper is useful here to hold the wrench) Now get a breaker bar, put the 19mm socket on it and loosen the big bolt holding the camshaft gear on while holding the cam from moving with the wrench, under no circumstances rely on the cam locking tool to hold the cam or you WILL snap the camshaft quite possibly or something else. Keep trying until you crack the bolt loose, you could also use a gear holding tool off eBay to hold the pulley. Just undo the bolt a few turns until the cam gear rotates freely.


Now take the new belt and fit it carefully over the main drive pulley on the crank (take care not to move it even a fraction!). Now route the belt correctly, over the IP pulley so it fits on the edge of it, onto the tensioner and try and get the belt on to the edge of the cam pulley. Once you have it partially on I moved to the top side of the engine and nudge it on fully with both hands. Check the belt is nicely seated in the centre of all the pulleys and that it runs through the tensioner properly.

Now take your tensioner tool and have a 13mm spanner in the other hand and turn the tensioner clockwise using the two prongs/two holes. Check the crank pulley isn’t moving at all and gently tension the belt until you can twist it 45 degrees using your thumb and forefinger. This is done on the longest run of the belt.


Once you’re happy (don’t over tighten it...) tweak the 13mm nut on the tensioner until it nips up a bit and you can relax! Tighten the nut that holds the tensioner on but again, don’t over torque it. I think I set mine to about 25nm.


ok, now check your locking tools are still all in place and go and check the flywheel mark hasn’t moved..... If it is still dead on, move to the next stage, if it has moved slightly, undo the tensioner, remove the belt, tweak the flywheel back to TDC and start over. Its handy to have a helper jam a screwdriver in between a couple of flywheel teeth if your struggling, this will stop it moving slightly and ensure that the camshaft and IP pulleys take up the tension, not the crankshaft.

Now, once your happy all is good, tighten the bolts up again on the IP (the 3 adjustment nuts). Again, I did mine to about 30nm ish or basically what they felt like to take them off (by hand).

Now remove the IP locking drill bit

Now to the top again, clamp the camshaft again using your adjustable wrench, and tighten the cam pulley back up again to 45NM. Again, you should lock it only with the wrench and not the locking plate.

Remove the camshaft locking tool.

Now, using the 19mm bolt on the crank, turn the engine over one full cycle **I marked the main gear with a white paint pen so I could get it back to TDC easily without a helper* (2 rotations of the crank iirc) to check all is well. Set it to TDC using the flywheel and check your cam lock fits and the IP locker also fits ok.

Refit lower timing belt cover

Refit main pulley being sure to line up the little notch on its back to the notch on the crank drive pulley. Torque the new allen bolts up to 25nm

Refit the water pump pulley - torque bolts to 20nm ~

Refit the new alternator belt, again, push the alternator in on its spring until you can get the belt over the pulley, refit the lower bolt and torque to 20-25nm and the same for the upper one.

Refit the new PS belt. This is tensioned using the spacers that probably fell out when you removed it!
I found that with a new belt, I needed to use 2 spacers in the middle of the two halves, the 'spare' spacers go behind the pulley straight on to the face of the PS pump. The best way I found to do this is put the spare spacers on first and line up the holes, then arrange the two halves with spacers between and then place a couple of bolts loosely into the holes to hold it all in place. Now fit the belt in between the currently wobbly halves of the pulley and over the main pulley. Fit the other two bolts, you can manually push the belt so it is stretched towards the outside of the pulley as you tighten up the 4 bolts equally. When they are tight (20nm) the belt should be quite taught but so you can twist it maybe 90 degrees between thumb and forefinger. It should have decent tension when you press down on it and not be baggy!


Replace the cam cover using ideally a new gasket. Torque the 3 bolts down on the top of it to 20nm ~


Refit the glowplugs and link bar (see guide http://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=20504)

Refit the upper timing belt cover.

Refit the intake pipe to the airbox and turbo intake pipe.


The moment - go and start the van!!

Now make yourself a cuppa in the knowledge you just did the cambelt!






I will edit and update this guide as things come to me! As it was a few weeks since I did the cambelt. Hope you all find it useful :)
Hi I did the cambelt and water pump on my vwt4 1.9 1999 t reg this week and i found all this great info very useful :) thankyou .
The alternator belt runs under the waterpump pulley on mine . So i put it back on under the pulley .
 

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Excellent thread.
Just unsure about tensioning timing belt. Is 1/4 turn adequate? Any other timing belt I have done has had a spring tensioner?
 

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I'm about to change the cambelt in my T4 - Thanks for the excellent guide. One question though: The tensioner I got with my kit appears to have a spring guage on it. Is it just a case of line up the 2 marks, do up loosely turn the engine through 1 rev, check it again and tighten?

 

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Hi all
Know its an old thread but just wanted to add that my fuel/injection pump pulley timing slot was also only big enough for a 6mm drill bit. 7 just wouldnt fit in the first slot.

This seems to agree with what some other posters have said, so seems like theres at least 3 types of IP pulley :)

thanks for the guide, made it as lot easier for a first timer!T:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Sorry for the epic slow reply guys. Comments seem to be moderated and a few replies I made dont seem to be showing...
Glad you all found this helpful. Any current questions just fire away as Im back now :D
 
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