OK, here's my offering to add to 7/11=12's great How To. It covers using the Sealey tool.
1. Chock the wheels, pop a jack under the jacking point, remove the wheel (19mm bolts), slip an axle stand under the lower wishbone and it should look like this.
![Image]()
2. Bit of WD40 on the 21mm nut that holds on the shock absorber lower end, socket on one end and spanner on the other end, then knock out the bolt.
![Image]()
3. Prep time. The upper wishbone needs to be wedged against the subframe in the marked area. Don’t mistakenly try to wedge it against the lower wishbone as this doesn’t work… Wedging lets the lower wishbone drop, whilst the top one stays still, lifting the upper ball joint out of its housing. Problem is, to do this, you need a thin bit of something strong.
![Image]()
4. Step up an old bolster chisel and an angle grinder. I ground the top edge flat and took a wedge out of the lower edge where it sits against the subframe.
![Image]()
5. I’ve read of others jacking the hub with the van staying stationery on axle stands but I did it the other way. It just seemed easier. To get the chisel in place you need to drop the body (or raise the hub if jacking that) and position the chisel. Raise the body slowly until it nips the chisel securely between the subframe and upper wishbone and hold it there.
![Image]()
6. Slotted in place nicely
![Image]()
7. Take out the 18mm bolt holding the caster/camber adjuster – needs to be released and removed from the ball joint afterwards. Note the mark made to make sure it goes back in the same place afterwards.
![Image]()
8. Potential mistake alert! On the first joint I did I struggled to get a socket on to the 24mm nut that holds the joint in place. BAD idea – managed in my fumbling to nip a hole in the rubber CV gaiter. Use a 24mm ring spanner preferably, although I got away with a good quality big adjustable spanner.
![Image]()
9. Once the nut’s off this eccentric washer will probably fall off.
![Image]()
10. Use a couple of screwdrivers to prise out the circlip
![Image]()
11. Jack up the body (or lower the suspension if you’re doing it the other way) and out should pop the joint.
![Image]()
12. It should come out as a unit without too much stress.
![Image]()
13. Bring out the big boys! Sealey VSE725. It both pulls and pushes. Instructions at end.
![Image]()
14. You need the wider fork fitted (black) and the smallest black round adapter.
![Image]()
15. An extension bar on the socket bar was needed (not shown) as it takes some removing.
![Image]()
16. And out it pops!
![Image]()
17. I used the gold coloured fork (slightly smaller) without any of the adapters on the puller to push the camber/caster adjuster off of the taper on the joint. It didn’t take much effort.
![Image]()
18. Bit of cleaning up – the puller rests on the recess when pushing the new ball joint in so it needs a clean surface.
![Image]()
19. Bentley manual says lubricate face of wishbone that’ll receive the joint with liquid soap.
![Image]()
20. Puller set up to push – gold fork and adapter
![Image]()
21. New joint ready to go in. Genuine VW one – part number 701407187B costing £32.76 + VAT in June 2012.
![Image]()
22. Puller in place to push in new joint.
![Image]()
23. Fit the new circlip
![Image]()
24. Put camber/caster plate in place before lowering vehicle (or lifting hub) slowly so it drops into place.
![Image]()
25. Don’t forget to put on the eccentric washer before the 24mm nut goes back on (I did first time…) It can only go in one way as it locates in the bottom of the camber/caster adjuster. Bentley manual has a typo as it says tighten to 110Nm or 118ft/lb. Think it should say 160Nm or 118ft/lb but it’s a bit academic because I’m not sure how you do this with drive shaft in place.
![Image]()
26. Replace bolt to hold camber/caster plate in place – tighten to 60Nm or 44 ft/lb.
![Image]()
27. Replace bolt through connecting link and shock absorber. I had to lift and drop the body to get them to align. Tighten nut to 160Nm or 118 ft/lb
![Image]()
28. Wheel back on – tighten bolts to 160Nm or 118 ft/lb – and hopefully any squeaks or knocks have gone. My steering was much lighter too.
Finally - the Sealey instructions. Hardly comprehensive...
![Image]()
1. Chock the wheels, pop a jack under the jacking point, remove the wheel (19mm bolts), slip an axle stand under the lower wishbone and it should look like this.
2. Bit of WD40 on the 21mm nut that holds on the shock absorber lower end, socket on one end and spanner on the other end, then knock out the bolt.
3. Prep time. The upper wishbone needs to be wedged against the subframe in the marked area. Don’t mistakenly try to wedge it against the lower wishbone as this doesn’t work… Wedging lets the lower wishbone drop, whilst the top one stays still, lifting the upper ball joint out of its housing. Problem is, to do this, you need a thin bit of something strong.
4. Step up an old bolster chisel and an angle grinder. I ground the top edge flat and took a wedge out of the lower edge where it sits against the subframe.
5. I’ve read of others jacking the hub with the van staying stationery on axle stands but I did it the other way. It just seemed easier. To get the chisel in place you need to drop the body (or raise the hub if jacking that) and position the chisel. Raise the body slowly until it nips the chisel securely between the subframe and upper wishbone and hold it there.
6. Slotted in place nicely
7. Take out the 18mm bolt holding the caster/camber adjuster – needs to be released and removed from the ball joint afterwards. Note the mark made to make sure it goes back in the same place afterwards.
8. Potential mistake alert! On the first joint I did I struggled to get a socket on to the 24mm nut that holds the joint in place. BAD idea – managed in my fumbling to nip a hole in the rubber CV gaiter. Use a 24mm ring spanner preferably, although I got away with a good quality big adjustable spanner.
9. Once the nut’s off this eccentric washer will probably fall off.
10. Use a couple of screwdrivers to prise out the circlip
11. Jack up the body (or lower the suspension if you’re doing it the other way) and out should pop the joint.
12. It should come out as a unit without too much stress.
13. Bring out the big boys! Sealey VSE725. It both pulls and pushes. Instructions at end.
14. You need the wider fork fitted (black) and the smallest black round adapter.
15. An extension bar on the socket bar was needed (not shown) as it takes some removing.
16. And out it pops!
17. I used the gold coloured fork (slightly smaller) without any of the adapters on the puller to push the camber/caster adjuster off of the taper on the joint. It didn’t take much effort.
18. Bit of cleaning up – the puller rests on the recess when pushing the new ball joint in so it needs a clean surface.
19. Bentley manual says lubricate face of wishbone that’ll receive the joint with liquid soap.
20. Puller set up to push – gold fork and adapter
21. New joint ready to go in. Genuine VW one – part number 701407187B costing £32.76 + VAT in June 2012.
22. Puller in place to push in new joint.
23. Fit the new circlip
24. Put camber/caster plate in place before lowering vehicle (or lifting hub) slowly so it drops into place.
25. Don’t forget to put on the eccentric washer before the 24mm nut goes back on (I did first time…) It can only go in one way as it locates in the bottom of the camber/caster adjuster. Bentley manual has a typo as it says tighten to 110Nm or 118ft/lb. Think it should say 160Nm or 118ft/lb but it’s a bit academic because I’m not sure how you do this with drive shaft in place.
26. Replace bolt to hold camber/caster plate in place – tighten to 60Nm or 44 ft/lb.
27. Replace bolt through connecting link and shock absorber. I had to lift and drop the body to get them to align. Tighten nut to 160Nm or 118 ft/lb
28. Wheel back on – tighten bolts to 160Nm or 118 ft/lb – and hopefully any squeaks or knocks have gone. My steering was much lighter too.
Finally - the Sealey instructions. Hardly comprehensive...
