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Bought this while visiting friends in CZ.

First ball joint 1.5 hours, thought this was going to be the worst side - biggest headache was the bottom part of the shock had sized to the mounting bolt - took forever to wist it out of the rubber at the bottom of the shock.

Second one 3 hours :(. 24mm nut underneath was sized. Release the joint from the arm and then tried chopping the joint off - of course the tapered part of the bolt is inside the camber/caster adjuster so this doesn't work.
Ended up with angle grinder and then dremmel to cut away enough of the nut to bash it into submission. Well corroded. The camber/caster plate had to be removed from the bolt using a vice a hammer and a lot of bashing.
All went back together with no drama though.

While doing the first one I discovered I had 2mm left on my brake pads - 100 Euros at AD74 in Annemasse (near Geneva) for pads.

If anyone needs to borrow the balljoint tool in the Chamonix area I now have one.
 

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Fantastic write up! I just wished this was around when I had mine done back in 2008. I may get the tool as I may need to do it again in the future. I think I have issues with the bushes on the antiroll bar to sort out.
 

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If anyone near manchester has one to hire I would definitely be interested (having had a quote from the VW van centre!). Alternatively does anyone know of any other garages in the area that could do it? Cheers
 

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Decided, having had a quote from a garage, to buy the tool and do it myself. Doddle in the end. Same tool as Sealy but branded as Laser.

Top joints in and out in less than an hour although the major part of the disassembly was already done. Still waiting for an outer CV joint boot to come so only the off-side rebuilt (top, bottom and track rod ends, boots and CV joint all new).

Tool available for hire!!!
Hi do you still have the top ball joint splitter tool for hire, i'm in herefordshire were are you ? could you post it out at my cost, Regards Katana
 

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Hi,
Well done on some brilliant advice and photos.

I did mine today exactly the same way, apart from forgetting to put the eccentric washer back on the n/ side one [email protected]@""/"".
My only problem was freeing the camber adjuster from the removed ball joint, did not want to play.

That aside, as I said, top advice.

Nice one, Karl.
 

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I noticed that you posted that they might need doing every 5 years or so but after getting mine done last year it has failed in the MOT again this year. Does anyone know why that might be? Could there be something else wrong causing it? I was lucky that I found a local T4 specialist to do it last year (on here I think) but if it is going to keep needing doing then it will get pricey.
 

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Yes made mine to, still a pig to do though.
For ref someone said they had problems undoing lower shock, u don't need to!
I did both mine with releasing nothing except zip tying my brake caliper out the way!

 

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done today. All went well 2 hours including grinding chisel and packing tools away. Big thanks for post.
 

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Just want to thank the OP for putting this up, and also the lower ball joint operation!

I done both today and I can't emphasise enough how slotting a piece of metal between the frame and upper arm helps so much. I didn't do this to start with and had the hub shooting off in a funny angle after undoing some bolts & nuts!
I use a 100mm x 5mmx 20mm piece of iron I had on the shelf.

My ball joint nut was stuck solid so I had to cut it off as close as I could to the arm and then used a sharp bolster to remove the remaining part of the nut.

I did enquire about the ball joint tool from fellow members but felt I wouldn't get it in time so I stumped up the costs and got the tool.
So anyone in Somerset/ Dorset area wants to hire it please let me know.

Again, thanks to the OP :)

4. Step up an old bolster chisel and an angle grinder. I ground the top edge flat and took a wedge out of the lower edge where it sits against the subframe.

 

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Has anybody tried replacing an upper balljoint without the sealy tool kit?

Yes I have but it involved using a blow torch to warm up the outer casing and the ball joint just fell out. Its not the ideal way to do it but i was stuck so had no other option. if i was to do it again i would deffenatly use the correct tool.
 

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just did mine this weekend, couple of points I noticed:

Get the brake caliper out the way helps no ends.

Instead of using a bolster chisel I use the original jack between the subframe and the lower wishbone helps get it out of the way much easier.

Then when actually using the tool I found it best to rotate the tool around the joint as your pressing it in giving an even press on each side, my first one went in a little wonky as I just pressed with it on the one side...

Just my 2p, hope this is helpful to someone.

Good tool, first one took about 2 hrs but was doing bottom joint too, 2nd one was only about an hour T:
 
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