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Before you go cutting any wires you need to plug them into the transformer to 1. check they're working and 2. check with a meter and mark which are the +ve and -ve wires. Being diodes they are polarity sensitive. Best not do a 'trial and error' style test, if you connect them up the wrong way you will burn them out, don't ask how I know that I:

Once you've got the polarities sorted, just connect them up in parallel to your switched 12v supply as reqd. Probably best to keep the wire lengths roughly equal. Jay has mentioned above fitting a 12v regulated supply for LEDs but mine have been fine on the leisure battery which goes up to about 13.7v with the charger on.

I found the recent batch of Dioders to be a warm white ( the originals were daylight ), if anyone's looking for something whiter then the Saxby 13843 Zest daylight white are the ones to go for.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Craig10 ?And builderjay I think I will use the regulator ? Is there an easy way too wire up to the door so they come on when opening the side door ?
 

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In days of old you could have wired a relay coil to your interior light to switch your LEDs but not so straightforward with modern electrics. I'm sure someone will be along soon to advise.


You could always fit 2 way switches with one on the back face of the B pillar trim so there's a manual switch just by the door opening
 

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Want Electrics? Go Wildebus!
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Thanks Craig10 ��And builderjay I think I will use the regulator �� Is there an easy way too wire up to the door so they come on when opening the side door ?
Very simple to do with a THREE-WAY Switch, so you have postion 1 for door, position 2 for on and position 3 (or 0) for off, just like on cab light switch.
The key thing to remember if using courtesy door light wiring is that using the ground to switch, not the +12V, so on your lights, they will have +12V (via regulator for IKEA LEDs!) permanently supllied, and it is thr Ground/0V that goes to the switch.

Also best to not simply tap in the +12V of an existing internal light as chances are that will go off by itself after a while regardless of any switch setting (an annoying "feature" of T5s)
 

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Want Electrics? Go Wildebus!
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Haha. Didn't use the 100m but it's cheap as chips and the cable is thicker than what is supplied with the lights.
Thinking more the price ... 100m for a fiver from Halfords? That is 5p a metre for twin-core from a shop that charges 50p for a pair of spade connectors :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
On that diagram is that toggle switch to turn lights on an of or to just turn the regulator on and off ? ?
 
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