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Discussion Starter #1
Am planning on fitting a set of these to my bus next week.
I will be removing the original interior lights in the rear and using these. They will be switched so they can be permanently on/off/or door activated.
I will be using the original interior lighting supply to power them.
The Ikea site lists them at 8watts, so should I need to upgrade the original fuse or will it cope?
They wont be on for any great length of time.
 

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if i remember the interior light shares a fuse with something else.

8 watts x2 interiors and the cab one is not even 2 Amps. you can fit the next size fuse with no problem.
its not the amount of time the light is on, its the power.

try them and if the fuse pops, go up oneT:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah , thanks

I just remembered the equasion Watts=volts x amps.
Gonna be using the 8watts of the ikea lights plus 2 downlighters in my tailgate rated at 1watt each. so 10watts/12v = 0.83amps.

As a minimum I will fit a 5 amp fuse.

Just hope my battery will cope. Dont really need a leisure battery for anything else (yet)
 

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Yeah , thanks

I just remembered the equasion Watts=volts x amps.
Gonna be using the 8watts of the ikea lights plus 2 downlighters in my tailgate rated at 1watt each. so 10watts/12v = 0.83amps.

As a minimum I will fit a 5 amp fuse.

Just hope my battery will cope. Dont really need a leisure battery for anything else (yet)
if the lights were a combined 1A it will take about 3 days to flatten the battery if they were all left on :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Fitted my dioder lights today (well two of them) and am a bit disappointed really. I wasnt expecting them to be flood lights, but they are pretty poor. Could this be a result of my black headlining and grey interior? Would a light coloured headling make any difference?
 

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I think your expecting a little too much from just two lights. Ive got 8 in mine (4 each side) and it is just right for reading (even with my old eyes)

Regards

Trevor
 

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blimey, i've got just the four i.e one pack of ikea dioder and i don't like using them as they are so bright they hurt, especially after coming in from the dark, ok maybe a slight exaggeration but it is like a floodlit football pitch in there!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
blimey, i've got just the four i.e one pack of ikea dioder and i don't like using them as they are so bright they hurt, especially after coming in from the dark, ok maybe a slight exaggeration but it is like a floodlit football pitch in there!
Seriously?

Have you got the strips or the circular lights? With two in there, I can just about see. I dont really think four are gonna be much better. When I plugged them in in the house, they were really very bright (even in the daytime) but since chopping the transformer off and wiring them into the van they are quite week.

When the van had its standard lights in the back, the previous owner had fitted some of those mulit-led bulbs and they were massively bright.

So why are the 12 led dioders so poor?

Could it be a voltage drop somewhere? Yes, I have wired them in correctly in parallel and not in series.

I have looked at others threads (nastynick) and his dioders are very bright in his daytime shots. looking at mine, I can just about see the 12 leds in the circle.
 

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I've got just the four dioders, (the set of four circular ones, and they're proper bright.. certainly no urge to add any more at all.

In fact, if I'm working in the van after dark, those are are the lights I use or need.

I do run them off a dedicated 12v regulator, to isolate them from the damage caused by the 14v+ thats often floating round in vehicles and is renowned for reducing lifespan on LEDs - these fittings are already a little overdriven at 12v exactly, and more is not good for them.

(The regulator is an off the shelf £6 unit, that guarantees an exact and smoothed 12v regardless of what else is going on)

There's more about this in my build thread, but here's some pics:

on the table being tested before fitting:



Daytime, when I fitted them:



in the van on a sunny day:




I'd say the four dioders are more than up to the job, personally! it's certainly not a case of 'just about see the LEDs' at all..
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Right I have (sort of) got to the bottom of the problem.

Just tested the wiring with a meter and was only getting 8v at the lights. No wonder they were p**s poor.
Did some further checking and jugling around and the problem was the way the wiring was connected to the 3 pin rocker switches.
I am now very confused.

I bought the circular rocker swicthes off ebay as they are the blue led type. They have 3 pins on the bottom labelled +, A , and earth.

When I wired them in, I just used the + and the earth connectors. This worked and the blue led lit up. But now we know that they were restricting the current for some reason. I hav now changed wire from the earth terminal to the A terminal and the voltage is correct and the lights work a lot better but the led on the switch no longer lights up.

I dont get it. What are the three pins for?

Incidentally, this is the circuit I am using. It means that I still have the door operated function, the ability to switch the lights on with doors closed and can switch lights permanently off -




So how do these silly switches work and what does "A" mean?
 

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The led in those switches must have a current limiting resistor - I wonder if you have connected your ikea lights in series with that, hence the power limitation..

I would buzz the switch out with your meter, check the impedance on your current connections
 

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+ to power, A to lights and Earth to earth. The earth is for the light in the switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
+ to power, A to lights and Earth to earth. The earth is for the light in the switch.
Thanks UPSPEX, they did confuse me.

I have since changed one of the switches so that I have the power switch and then connected both the other terminal together and ran directly to earth. The led still doesnt light up. Does it sound like its blown?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yeah sorry, meant to say that I have wired the switches in like this now -



Have the power going into the plus terminal and the other two earthed together. Still no led. If I leave the power in and just have the earth on the earth terminal, I get the led.
 

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:eek: You cant do that. The A terminal must be connected to your lights otherwise you have a direct short to earth and you will damage the switch or even worse have a fire!!!!! You do have a fuse in circuit I hope????
 

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i have a set of these in multi color if any 1 is interested brand new unopened.. not used them in the van you can stick with color of choice or let it flick from 1 to the next have a green van was gonna have them set on green !!
 
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