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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Evening all,

Bought our T5 in August last year and now the mechanical work has been done ( water pump change and service ) plus the cosmetic repair to the roof ( big fan removed in the back and light holes repaired ) we are getting started on the interior. Got the materials we need and the new interior panels but I have a couple of questions I can't seem to find the answers to:

- for the 7mm sound deadening / insulation we got from VeeDub Transporters, it's basically cut to size, peel and stick - but is there a 'good' outside temperature to do this as it's a bit cold at the moment and I don't want it to come off because the adhesive didn't bond properly

- I got some Diall loft insulation from B&Q - is it worth putting it on the roof aswell ?

I realise that these next questions are subjective, but just trying to get a feel for what others have done.

- we have a twin slider, so for the carpeting did you just do the door panels and leave the metalwork bare, or do the whole lot ?

- same question for the barn doors, just the panels or do all of the metalwork ?

- we got our carpet from Kiravans, 10m roll - realistically, is that enough to do ALL the sides, roof and various small bits or will we need more ?

Many thanks in advance for any help or advice, everyone has been so helpful in previous replies.

Andy
 

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Hi Andy , ideally a nice summers day to help the adhesive stick but in reality i'd cut the peices to size , degrease the panel and them warm it with the wifes hairdryer before applying.
If its anything like the stuff we bought it sticks like poo to a fur blanket!
Doors - we've carpeted just the panels for now ( actually been about 6 years now) but thoroughly intend to do the barn doors fully as they condensate being next to your head when sleeping in it .
And sorry but i haven't a clue how much carpet we used it was that long ago . 🤷‍♂️
 

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As B&T says - just warming the panel before you apply will be just fine. I did mine in the middle of winter a couple of years back and it's still stuck solid. Fantastic stuff!
With the Diall insulation - there's limited room in the roof cavity, I used 10mm thermoliner and just recently added some of the loft insulation too as I had loads left over, just tearing it in half to make it thinner so I wasn't cramming it in too much and causing the roof panels to bulge. I used a light spray of trim-fix adhesive to hold it up too, just to make reinstalling the roof panels easier (it's a PITA as it is!).
For the sliding door and barndoors I trimmed the metalwork too and sealed around the edges. An easy way to do it is to mark out the outline whilst you're inside the van with the door closed. Use a marker pen to outline where the metalwork meets the rubber door seals - basically you don't want your carpet to go beyond these otherwise it'll soak up rainwater and/or cause the seals to leak.
10m of carpet should be plenty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the replies chaps, I was thinking of using one of those portable fan heaters and leave it in the back of the van for 10 mins or so before starting anything giving it a chance to warm everything up then applying the sound-deadening / insulation stuff. Although the wife has said "wait until March, it will be warmer... " :oops:

Hmm, this is going to be a case of slowly slowly catchy monkey I think - I was erring on the side of not doing the doors and just doing the panels but I will see what She Who Must Be Obeyed says first.

@B&T, did you do a full conversion with bed etc etc ? We are not at that point just yet, but will look to do that a bit later on down the line possibly - we are thinking that we will use an awning plus tent option for the first few times, and an inflatable bed in the back an an interim so we can get a feel for how it all works. The 6-yr old daughter is keen but the wife not so much :D
 

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I'd sound deaden and insulate as much as you can - do it once, do it right. Save having to come back to it in the future.
My mate (who now no longer owns his van), skipped sound deadening the cab doors and forever complained that mine sounded 'like a Golf' in comparison to his that just sounded tinny.
 

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You’ll be fine doing in the cold, the stuff is proper sticky. I’d just keep it in the house so it’s room temp before using it in the van, and as said, use degreasing wipes on the metal work first (but make sure it’s wiped dry before applying). Using a roller to apply really worked well and ensure good adhesion.
10m of 4 way stretch carpet was plenty to do a swb with enough left over to do other bits and pieces (although I didn’t use it for the ceiling). Are you carpet metal work and then fitting carpeted ply panels or are you panelling and carpet over that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'd sound deaden and insulate as much as you can - do it once, do it right. Save having to come back to it in the future.
My mate (who now no longer owns his van), skipped sound deadening the cab doors and forever complained that mine sounded 'like a Golf' in comparison to his that just sounded tinny.
TBH, sound-deadening the cab doors hadnt even crossed my mind ............ 🤦‍♂️

Something else to add to the list - is it worth using the Diall insulation on the cab doors aswell ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
10m of 4 way stretch carpet was plenty to do a swb with enough left over to do other bits and pieces (although I didn’t use it for the ceiling). Are you carpet metal work and then fitting carpeted ply panels or are you panelling and carpet over that?
I am thinking that we will carpet the ply panels first to make sure we have enough, then do the metal-work as appropriate in the back / doors and fit the panels over that - I think I have managed to persuade the wife that this is going to the easier option if we ever have to get behind the panels ( I am thinking for additional cabling for either power, speakers etc - you know, just in case ;) )
 

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Yes Andy ours is s full conversion.
We used 10mm closed cell foam ( over silent coat)in the ceiling and doors because of limited space .
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I didn't get that Silent Coat stuff, does it make much more if a difference ? I was just planning on using the 7mm thermo acoustic plus the Diall insulation
 

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I am thinking that we will carpet the ply panels first to make sure we have enough, then do the metal-work as appropriate in the back / doors and fit the panels over that - I think I have managed to persuade the wife that this is going to the easier option if we ever have to get behind the panels ( I am thinking for additional cabling for either power, speakers etc - you know, just in case ;) )
Deffo the way to go. Personally I think it looks better and as you say it allows access behind if you need it
 

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Just sound deadening on the doors - when you remove the inner door skins to fit the speakers you can reach in and apply some to the external door skin which helps reduce vibrations massively. Don't put any insulation in here - it's got to stay empty for the window mechanism.
Then just cover the door skins around the speakers (there's a few threads on here including my own build thread to give you an idea). If you've got any left-over sound deadening / off-cuts you can stick it to the back of the plastic door cards. Doesn't make as much difference on there though.
 

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I fully sound-deadened my T4 (I went overkill), and the difference was truly remarkable...dead silence, and you could have a conversation at a whisper even at highway speeds. Having recently switched to a T5, it's soooooo freakin' loud! Thankfully my massive order of sound-deadener arrived yesterday (finally!), so I can get stuck into fitting that, and no longer be driving inside a drumkit! :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Big difference mate, takes the resonance out of the metal panels
Have been convinced, and as it is so bloody cold at the moment will wait to get paid then order some of the silent coat - I would much prefer to do a job once than have to go back to it.

The other thing that sprung to mind were the wheel arches at the front, and the flooring under front seats .......... or Ammi going down a rabbit hole here ???
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I fully sound-deadened my T4 (I went overkill), and the difference was truly remarkable...dead silence, and you could have a conversation at a whisper even at highway speeds. Having recently switched to a T5, it's soooooo freakin' loud! Thankfully my massive order of sound-deadener arrived yesterday (finally!), so I can get stuck into fitting that, and no longer be driving inside a drumkit! :p
What made you switch to a T5 ?
 

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Have been convinced, and as it is so bloody cold at the moment will wait to get paid then order some of the silent coat - I would much prefer to do a job once than have to go back to it.

The other thing that sprung to mind were the wheel arches at the front, and the flooring under front seats .......... or Ammi going down a rabbit hole here ???
I didn’t do mine but I know that people have and with good results by all accounts. It’s no deal breaker for me but if I was to do again a probably would
 
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