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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

So after this winter and the salt grit on the roads I wanted to get my arches nice and clean and free from any surface rust which is creeping on, while I save up for a respray. So I sanded one down with 80, 120, 340 and 400 to the bare metal and then did two coats of Hammerite Smooth Black direct to metal spray paint. The finish came out way better than I expected, but I wondered, and wanted to ask before I do the other arches, if anyone knows if this paint tends to react with resprays? Or if there is any reason I should just avoid it in general? I was going to sand it once more with 600 wet/dry and then give it one more coat.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
if you sand and prine it first i don't think it reacts.
i did mine and it worked ok
I didn't prime it, just sanded down to the bare metal of the arch to get rid of any rust/corrosion, and feathered the sanding job over the current paintwork and sprayed it on carefully. It didn't react with the current paintwork, but I was worried it may with a future respray. Any thoughts?

I just want to keep the respray cost as low as I can, and would love to avoid any hiccups along the way! :)
 

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hi,it's not ideal to spray on top of this. but getting rid of the rust/slowing it down, is still a very good idea until it gets into the body-shop. they will just buzz it off anyway, and etch and 2 pack prime it. so no worries.just let them know T:
don't use the hammerd finish stuff,as this contains silicon to get that "hammerd" finish.
regards jon
 

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sorry, my comment was vague. i hammerited my wheel arches after using an angle grinder with wire brush attachment and then painted with hammerite. it stayed like this for 12 months until i finally had a nice day when i was free, i then wirebrushed the area, jenolited, used zinc primer 3 coats, painted with stone chip, sanded again, sprayed on high build spray putty, sanded with 400 grit and soapy water, wiped with a silicone free panel wipe and then sprayed with 2pack. the panel hasn't reacted and has been rust free for over 3 years now.
just stop the rust spreading and finish properly when you have the chance, with the arches make sure you check the inside and lip. this is where the rust seems to start from. the water collects under the sealant, i removed this and rust cured before spraying and once that was done i undersealed the inside really thickly.
also i wanted to avoid body filler, the stuff just seems to collect water and bubble off.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
sorry, my comment was vague. i hammerited my wheel arches after using an angle grinder with wire brush attachment and then painted with hammerite. it stayed like this for 12 months until i finally had a nice day when i was free, i then wirebrushed the area, jenolited, used zinc primer 3 coats, painted with stone chip, sanded again, sprayed on high build spray putty, sanded with 400 grit and soapy water, wiped with a silicone free panel wipe and then sprayed with 2pack. the panel hasn't reacted and has been rust free for over 3 years now.
just stop the rust spreading and finish properly when you have the chance, with the arches make sure you check the inside and lip. this is where the rust seems to start from. the water collects under the sealant, i removed this and rust cured before spraying and once that was done i undersealed the inside really thickly.
also i wanted to avoid body filler, the stuff just seems to collect water and bubble off.
Swwet! Thanks for the info. Yeah, the Hammerite is definitely just a temp fix to keep it from getting bad. My arches were not very rusty to begin with, but just stone chipes in the paint had started to get surface rust and the cheap respray the owner before me got was flaking on the arches. Glad to know that they will hold out with te Hammerite, at least for a time. :)
 
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