VW T4 Forum - VW T5 Forum banner
1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
733 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

help needed on me 2.5petrol aaf auto, it doesn't want to start.

It tries to turn over but refuses, I've put it in drive, rocked it back and forward and thn back to park or N and she still won't start.

My question is:

could it be the starter motor or solenode?

how do I check the starter motor?

Or

Check the solenode?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
733 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Thanks for the replies Rasp:Rasp: (only kidding).

She is now up and running after rocking her backwards and forwards followed by a few turns on the ignition. She didn't like it and although she did start in the end it took ages for her to fire up.

Now me thinks something else could be wrong with her, more than a faulty starter motor.

Also noticed coolant was down, compared to last week was when I was last under the bonnet.

Does any one know what I need to (list of parts) to change the head gasket....I was also thinking of changing the belts as well at the same time.

So far I thinking I need for the 2.5 petrol AAF auto:

1 x Head gasket
1 x Cam Belt

Many thanks in advance T:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,220 Posts
Just coz your coolant has gone down it dont mean the headgasket has gone :eek: if the van starts after rocking and moving stick from r to d maybe the selector needs adjusting You should always start in park with foot on the brake anyway.
Dont go throwing Money away Get it checked by a specialist first T:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
733 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Just coz your coolant has gone down it dont mean the headgasket has gone :eek: if the van starts after rocking and moving stick from r to d maybe the selector needs adjusting You should always start in park with foot on the brake anyway.
Dont go throwing Money away Get it checked by a specialist first T:
Where is my coolant going? No leaks from the rad or anything like that.

Many thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,100 Posts
Half of the coolant missing again, checked dip stick and noticed white/creamy mixture :eek::eek::eek:

The only thing that has changed since last week is the rubber bung from the exhaust/manifold is broken - resulting in the Velle sounding very loud.
water mixing with the oil :( head gasket :(
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
648 Posts
It looks as if no.8 on the parts diagram is just a threaded connector. If you could get this out (might be corroded, but might be brass) then it's likely to be a standard thread and you could just replace it with a short bolt of the same thread to block the hole. Just a thought.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
733 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
It looks as if no.8 on the parts diagram is just a threaded connector. If you could get this out (might be corroded, but might be brass) then it's likely to be a standard thread and you could just replace it with a short bolt of the same thread to block the hole. Just a thought.
Good idea will try that.

Just had a quote for bits'n bobs ref Head gasket that I will try and do myself:

12 x Head Bolts £77.52 + VAT
1 x Head Gasket £37.84 + VAT
1 x Rocker Cover Gasket £20.52 + VAT
5 x Exhaust Manifold Gaskets £14.05 + VAT
1 x Thermostat Seal £2.64 + VAT
1 x Inlet Manifold Gasket £6.95 + VAT
1 x Cam Belt Kit £68.05 + VAT

The total cost for all these parts including VAT is £267.39.

Obviously I will need to change the oil and oil filter but is there anything else I will need or dont need?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
648 Posts
The total cost for all these parts including VAT is £267.39.

Obviously I will need to change the oil and oil filter but is there anything else I will need or dont need?
Ouch, that's not cheap! Is that VW parts? Don't know how you feel about non-OEM, but some of the parts, such as the head bolts, are available for about 1/3 of the price from EuroCarParts.

I've not got access to a manual for a 2.5 for cambelt change info, but other VWs I've done have needed setting tools for the tensioner and camshaft alignment. I would check the proceedure carefully before you start to make sure you've got/can fabricate the necessary tools.

Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
733 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ouch, that's not cheap! Is that VW parts? Don't know how you feel about non-OEM, but some of the parts, such as the head bolts, are available for about 1/3 of the price from EuroCarParts.

I've not got access to a manual for a 2.5 for cambelt change info, but other VWs I've done have needed setting tools for the tensioner and camshaft alignment. I would check the proceedure carefully before you start to make sure you've got/can fabricate the necessary tools.

Good luck.
Have just been looking through the "VW Transporter T4 - Workshop manual" (pages 42+) and the procedure seems ok for me, but I do need one of those tools...any idea where I can get one from or use instead?

So far GSF (via website) are cheaper, but how different are the parts, dont really wont to in a "buy cheap - buy twice" scenario?

Hopefully going to get the cylinders tested today as per http://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=46149 but removing the distr cap before starting.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
648 Posts
I bought a Sealey VW diesel kit (not cheap! - http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/s.nl/sc.7/category.807272/ctype.SS/SS.807272/.f) when I needed to do our Bora, but I think you could probably get what you need from somewhere like here: http://www.toolsheduk.com/S/2/4/5/Automotive-Hand-Tools.html much more cheaply (I just Googled "camshaft setting tools").

Re parts, personally I look for a good make on important parts, such as head gasket and cambelt (Continental make a lot of the OEM belts, for example). Other bits, such as the other gaskets, I wouldn't worry too much about.

Pulling the central lead (one from the coil) off the top of the distributor will have the same effect as taking the cap off as well as helping to keep any rubbish out of the distributor. Let us know how you get on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
648 Posts
I fear you probably have a head gasket problem - it's the most likely cause of loosing coolant into the oil, as you look to be from the photos. There are other options, such as a cracked head or cracked oil filter housing, but head gasket is most likely.

None of the pressure readings are dire +/- 20% is not unusual, especially on an older engine. The plugs look very black, but then given your cold start probs and that the engine's pressumably not got hot recently, this is not that surprising. No.5 (and poss no.2)looks as if it might have oil/water on it, suggesting the problem is around these combustion chambers. I think you're probably going to have to start taking things to pieces to definately identify the root of the problem!

Very best of luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
733 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Changed the oil and oil filter, ecu temp sender, scrubbed the lambda sensor and changed the air filter yesterday:



We then went to Poole for a spin and huge difference on the temp reading going back to the dash. Before, the normal temp would be around 1/4 to 1/2 and if I drove over 50mph the temp would drop below 1/4. Throttle and smell have seem to have gone.

I have noticed that it has lost some more coolant but not sure where now, as the old oil had turned back to black before I changed it yesterday.

Part number for ECU Temp sensor (top blue) from VW for a 2.5 AAF petrol:

V025 906 041 A - £14.85 + VAT

I did buy one of these from GSF about 6 months as I thought the original was dodgy, but it shows - buy cheap buy twice.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
648 Posts
Glad to hear that your Velle's going better now. Judging by the state of the air filter, it looks like it needed a change!

The temperature gauge symptoms sound similar to a sticking thermostat - with the thermostat stuck open the coolant gets cooled more the faster you get air going through the radiator, so engine temp drops as speed increases. Another symptom is often slow warm-up (I get warm air coming through the vents of my 2l petrol in under a mile, even in the current cold weather).

The fact your oil colour got better might well suggest that the leak into the oil is not that great, so when the oil was hot, water was being evaporated off faster than it was getting back in.

If it's going alright at the moment, I might be tempted to monitor the situation and see how it goes. Hope it continues to run well T:
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top