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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

First off, thank you all so much for all of the advise and help I have gleaned from your brilliant posts and sharing of knowledge.

We have just got a newer van (have been using our old '93 2.4D t4 happily for almost three years) and have come across this whole "my van won't go up hills without losing power" problem. We have just got it back from Clearcut Conversions and have taken the next two weeks off work to go through the west coast of Scotland but today it's gone rather wrong!!

I found (thanks to the advise on here and a local "hit it with a hammer" mechanic friend) that the crankcase breather had split open so I got a new one and fitted it by removing the oil filler and popping the old one out and new one in - jobs a good'un I thought....so I started her up and found that the coil heater lamp didn't come on in the dash but started nicely anyway only to die again straight away. What the hell is going on??

I hope very much that one of you might be able to give me some ideas and, without wanting to be a pest, really quickly please so we don't have to give up on our first proper holiday for years.

Many thanks,

Giles.
 

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Hello all,

First off, thank you all so much for all of the advise and help I have gleaned from your brilliant posts and sharing of knowledge.

We have just got a newer van (have been using our old '93 2.4D t4 happily for almost three years) and have come across this whole "my van won't go up hills without losing power" problem. We have just got it back from Clearcut Conversions and have taken the next two weeks off work to go through the west coast of Scotland but today it's gone rather wrong!!

I found (thanks to the advise on here and a local "hit it with a hammer" mechanic friend) that the crankcase breather had split open so I got a new one and fitted it by removing the oil filler and popping the old one out and new one in - jobs a good'un I thought....so I started her up and found that the coil heater lamp didn't come on in the dash but started nicely anyway only to die again straight away. What the hell is going on??

I hope very much that one of you might be able to give me some ideas and, without wanting to be a pest, really quickly please so we don't have to give up on our first proper holiday for years.

Many thanks,

Giles.
The mechanic has probably caused this by effecting something electrical.
I just advised on another thread check the wiring in the conduit going over the engine for breaks/shorting etc.
The conduit goes around the filler neck so I would suspect that point first.
 

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The mechanic has probably caused this by effecting something electrical.
I just advised on another thread check the wiring in the conduit going over the engine for breaks/shorting etc.
The conduit goes around the filler neck so I would suspect that point first.
What he said ^^^

Mine did the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
OK; so, well, here we are then.....

First off it's worth saying that we haven't checked EVERY wire in the loom going past the brake master cylinder but we got through a fair few!! So we had the "pointing to the maf sensor" thing going on, what with the lack of power on hills and not getting up to much speed without a few miles of flat running - it's worth saying that if I lifted my throttle foot half way up it made absolutely no difference to the acceleration, as though the pedal was only reacting for the first half of it's travel....anyway, back to the point.

We that found that we did not have a 12v feed coming through the maf sensor loom and thought "ah-ha" that'll be it then - no. It had taken out the fuse again (the right hand side one of the 2 15A fuses at the top of the fuse box above the relays) and when that was replaced we got the correct voltage from the loom (or at least 12v where it should have been and 4.08v where it was shown on this forum that it should be 5v, which I thought was probably within tolerance?) so I went ahead with fitting the new crank case breather.

Today we have tried to follow the black & yellow (or was it yellow & black!?) wire from this fuse to the maf sensor, the fuel pump, the oil pressure switch and...oh I can't remember. We found that right down by the oil pressure switch there were two frayed wires which have probably been causing a short to take out the fuse but when they were separated it didn't help. The main issue was that we didn't have the glow plug lamp on the dash but clearly they were working for a clean start (and subsequent stop!!) each time. The big concern is that the diagnostics cannot "communicate" with the engine management system....

So we checked, by using the diagnostics machine, that the dash was actually working and hey-presto there were all of the lamps including the glow plug lamp and we fixed the wires that we had found. We then disconnected the brake light sensor (as we had errors 01312 an 01314 as in another post) and that did nothing - stills starts without a glow plug lamp and dies in about 2 seconds. We had already checked the infamous relay 109 and that was fine but no change when jumped. We have a live feed and earth on the ECU and checked continuity for all of the terminals involved with the black & yellow coming from the blown fuse (oh and the black & white lead has continuity too). Finally, in desperation more than anything, we disconnected the battery for about 1 minute and then put the live and earth together to dissipate any charge in the system before reconnecting - nope, nothing, exactly the same.

To finish I have tightly wrapped all of the loom I can get to (namely where it isn't in the heat shield) in insulating tape to stop any rubbing and our vag contact believes it must be to do with the immobiliser not reading the key(s) any more (so, yes, unfortunately I have tried with the main key and the spare "blade" key) and suggests that could be to do with the control unit behind the dash having been spiked before the fuse actually blew???

Any advise or help would be unmeasureably appreciated as we are about to sob uncontrollably!! We got the van and sent it to the converters (nice bunch) and have just got it back on Saturday but now our holiday (much needed) looks like it is off....has anybody tried proving that a van was sold with a fault under the 3 month implicit trade warranty before out of interest?

Thanks again; here's hoping,

Giles.
 

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Hi I really feel your pain as also had loads of problems. Just read your thread again. Your saying you changed the filter and it was running fine before then. Just a thought, you haven't pulled something out without noticing. I know its a long shot. Wish I could be of more help. Hope its fixed soon and you get some quality time in it. T:
 

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Check your ignition switch is working mate. (another common problem)
The innards in the plastic become wrecked and can cause intermittent running problems.
The reason I say this is you started the van then it stopped. Maybe the return spring in the switch is causing problems to the pump supply.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks for your thoughts Teagle, the only thing that makes me think that might not be a problem (although I will double check) is that yesterday my friend checked that we did have power going to the fuel pump and it got the probe glowing (sorry, I'm a complete novice so I don't know what his little tool was called!!). What was confusing us, which is why we checked, is how the immobiliser actually stops the engine running and we thought it must be cutting off the fuel supply but we seem to have been wrong there....also does the lack of glow plug light in combination with this give any clues?

Thanks a lot,

Giles.
 

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Check you have power to the fuel pump solenoid, not just before starting but when it runs and if you lose the power when it dies it would point to a immobiliser fault.

Have you tried other keys?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks a lot mate, that's very interesting. I'm just having a day away from it today (just need a break before I go completely mad!!) but I'll check that out tomorrow. Would you mind trying to describe roughly where I can find the solenoid please, sorry!?

Yeah, by the way, I have indeed tried with both keys - luckily we still have the tag, with the code on, attached to the spare key but I'm not sure if that will help us out of a hole or not really?

Many thanks,

Giles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Oh my God, it's going!!!

Took fuse box out, checked contacts on Relay position 5 (apparently controls ECU) orange and brown wires and then grey and white wire with connector on, cleaned up and put back together and it started! Glow plug light back on and everything! So happy I can't speak - too late to go to Scotland but it's snowing anyway....

Thankyou, thankyou, thankyou to everyone who tried to help me, all the work I did was on advice from people on here and their past experiences. Now I just need to test drive to find out whether the wires we repaired in the loom have sorted out the poor power on hills over 60mph - fingers crossed!

I love this forum.A:
 

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Oh my God, it's going!!!

Took fuse box out, checked contacts on Relay position 5 (apparently controls ECU) orange and brown wires and then grey and white wire with connector on, cleaned up and put back together and it started! Glow plug light back on and everything! So happy I can't speak - too late to go to Scotland but it's snowing anyway....

Thankyou, thankyou, thankyou to everyone who tried to help me, all the work I did was on advice from people on here and their past experiences. Now I just need to test drive to find out whether the wires we repaired in the loom have sorted out the poor power on hills over 60mph - fingers crossed!

I love this forum.A:

Ahem :D

Glad it's sorted fella :ILU:
 
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