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Has anyone done this mod successfully on a T5.1? I have accessed the switch in the door. It has 3 wires - brown/black, blue/grey, and yellow, no yellow/blue. I cannot find these wires behind the light switch. If I earth the yellow it unlocks, so I assume I need a resistor for locking?
 

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So yellow wire at pin 25 on the black BCM connector when earthed directly unlocks the doors on a 2014 T5.1. When run through a 768 ohm resistor it locks the doors.
 

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So a centre-off switch where the common terminal goes to pin 25, one switched terminal goes straight to earth and the other switched terminal goes to earth via a 768 ohm resistor will give you lock and unlock on one switch? Thanks - that sounds quite simple.
 

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I'm using a centre off rocker with just one on position, just to provide a lock switch in the rear for those times when you are in bed a remember the doors are still unlocked.
 

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I used to make a kit for vans that don't have the optional switch on the drivers door to control the central locking but stopped making them last year. There still seem s to be quite a demand for this upgrade so here is a "HOW TO" for anyone wanting to have a go.

You will need:

two way momentary switch like an electric window switch (you can use an OE locking switch from a Golf or Sirocco from a scrapper, this will fit one of your switch blanks on the dash) or
01939.3314-01 | Marquardt Double Pole Double Throw (DPDT), (On)-Off-(On) Rocker Switch Panel Mount | RS Components will do it.

some 0.5 mm cable in brown, yellow/blue and black
a few resistors ranging from 875 ohms to 1K
a N/O contact relay

What you need to access is the 10 way black connector block behind the dash end plate on the drivers side. In pin 6 is a yellow/blue wire. This wire needs to be pulsed with a negative to lock and pulsed with a negative via the resistor to unlock. The value of this resistor seems to vary slightly van to van so we begin with the 1K and work down until we find the right one for your van.

The purpose of the relay is isolate the switch unless the ignition is on for security. If you plan to mount the switch in the back of the van where it cannot be reached through a window then you can dispense with the relay.

Connect a brown wire from the earth point behind the carpet by the bonnet pull to the common pin of your switch. Connect the resistor across the two output pins of your switch. Connect a yellow/blue wire from output pin of the switch to the yellow/blue wire in the black 10 way connector block. Check that van locks/unlocks correctly when the switch is operated. If it locks but won't unlock change the resistor for a lower value until you get it right.
Once you have lock/unlock sorted you can fit the inhibitor relay if you need to.

Cut the brown wire to the switch and connect the two ends to the N/O contacts of the relay. Also connect the end from the earth point to one of the relay coil connections. Connect an ignition controlled supply to the other relay coil connection. You can pick up this supply from one of the thick black/yellow wires at the back of the headlight switch but you must insert an inline fuse of 3 amps at this point. (not 5.1)

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Hi Martyn

Just to be clear is this modification not for T5.1.... then how do I do this to a 5.1 ? thanks
 

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This wire doesn’t get the
178512
locking/unlocking to respond have I got the right one. Closed the doors and sat insiders see if earthing it did anything while it was locked/unlocked. Can u tell me if I’m doing sthg wrong. Thanks !
 

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Hello! Thanks for the mod description, tried one from first page today.

VW T5, 2008, no driver side door controller (so no power windows, no electric mirrors etc), left hand drive.

Pin 6 (blue and yellow wire) in 8 pin plug pulled to ground - closes central lock into "safe" mode (can not be opened from inside using door handle).

Why it works? Basically this wire is responsible for micro switches in lock cilinder. Turn key to open - has resistor on it, closed - has no resistor.
So you are actually imitating turning the key from the outside in a driver door, which activates and deactivates central locking.

"Real" button interacts with door controller and not BCM as this workaround.
178536


178535
 

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Hi, thank you for adding info ! wow very interesting to see the diagram and understand how it works. One big difference with yours is that safe (called deadlock the interior locks) lock the van if the key is turned. The method I described does not and its function is disabled when the key is used to lock the van - that would prevent a thief from opening all doors if he gets through a window.

Do you know how my method works - no one previously explained. Guessing this info of others are copied from vans that came with a factory button on the door card had used this input.

As far as older models go i'm sure the looms will have variations as can be seen by your black connector and mine being very different in quantity of wires/colors.

Any feedback is appreciated !

Also I wanted to add some additional background lighting.
1. wheres the best place to tap off ignition power?
2. also does any have the factory option of 2nd battery (under the cab seat) and how the charging arrangement works.
 

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Im also thinking if you want to use your door controller microswitch line, then if you are usingit as a campervan and intend to lock from the inside using your new button, if the van got a flat battery or button failed you would be safe locked inside ! the BCM wire however is good as it does not safe lock you in which would be a bad thing if u needed to get out in a motor accident....

I would consider you find what method suits you best , hopefully 2008 van has an nonsafe mode input
 

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Im also thinking if you want to use your door controller microswitch line, then if you are usingit as a campervan and intend to lock from the inside using your new button, if the van got a flat battery or button failed you would be safe locked inside ! the BCM wire however is good as it does not safe lock you in which would be a bad thing if u needed to get out in a motor accident....

I would consider you find what method suits you best , hopefully 2008 van has an nonsafe mode input
Two pulls on the door handle overrides this, doesn’t it?
 

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I will try some more during weekend and report. I've got access to electric schemas, but am a total newbie/DIYer and just learn on the go. So thanks again for sharing info.

AFAIK safe mode could be disabled in firmware using VCDS, not exactly sure how.

Currently my dash looks like this, so I'm a bit busy with it.
178563
 

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Checked opening - 1 KOhm resistor is just right when pulling down to trigger opening.
Sadly, locking goes to "safe" mode and double-triple-.. pull on door handle has no effect.
Workaround: press "lock" on remote twice - this switches off safe mode (flicking diode will be off on driver door).
Warning: this may disrupt some emergency protocols. AFAIK doors become unlocked after airbags deployment, and I'm not 100% sure it will work with "safe" lock mode.
 
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