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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All

Ive just started to lower my van at the back. All jacked up & axle stands in situ. All bolts soaked in WD40 a few days before. The problem I have is that as I try to turn the bolt at the bottom of the shocker, it just rotates the lower part of the shocker too. I only need to undo one shocker bolt so I can get the spring out as Im only dropping 40mm & the current shocks seem ok. Am I damaging the shocker by rotating the bottom half?
Any of you guys come across this prob & know how to stop it spinning? Any help appreceiated.

Cheers,

Warren
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Re: Lowering Snag... Job Now Done But Got A few More Questions..

Nice one guys, job done T: Plumbers wrench to the rescue.

How long do these things take to settle as mine is still settling? I marked a piece of wood with the arch height on all 4 wheels before & just after the drop & its sunk about another 5mm since. The front has risen a tad & the back bumper is down 95mm from its ridiculous previous ride height :eek:
As it stands, the front passenger arch is 5mm lower than front drivers arch & rear passenger arch is 5mm higher than the rear drivers side arch (the spring looks slightly more compressed too on the drivers side), so theres a bit of a twist going on?? Why would one spring be more compressed than the other (van is completely empty)?
Does 5mm here & there make any difference?
I havn't done the torsion bars & was hoping not to as the van had super heavy duty standard springs on the back (hence the 95mm drop at the rear bumper) & thought it would just be ok with the 40mm springs but alas is a tad higher at the front.

Cheers for the help chaps,

Warren
 

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i always use top bolt,i can put van on ramp-up on stands-leave wheel on-undo top bolt-and change springs in under 10 mins,
if you are changing shocks aswell then just grip the body of shock with grips to stop it turning,if you are changing just the springs then undo top bolt as others have said T:
 

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try the top bolt mate,get a nice long exstension on it and then a scaff bar on your ratchet,turn slowly,making sure bolt is not rounding.

on the bottom,shold be somewhere above the bottom nut,on the bottom of the shock that sits in the plate,to hold with a spanner,whilst undoing the bottom nut,if yo go along this route.....although that could be on the aftermarket shocks...

brother in law had a prob with his standard shocks,but my aftermarket ones have somewhere to hold the bottom of the shock with a spanner,whilst turning bottom nut.:ILU:
 

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Re: Lowering Snag... Job Now Done But Got A few More Questions..

As it stands, the front passenger arch is 5mm lower than front drivers arch & rear passenger arch is 5mm higher than the rear drivers side arch (the spring looks slightly more compressed too on the drivers side), so theres a bit of a twist going on??

Cheers for the help chaps,

Warren
did you make sure you twisted your springs so they dropped into correct groove.

if one did and one didnt this could be it

if not

torsion bar adjustment will sort this out

if you drop the front to match the back and just worry about getting front wheels level with each other ( on a level surface)

once front is levelled up whole van should sit level

T:
 
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Re: Lowering Snag... Job Now Done But Got A few More Questions..

have someone sit in the drivers seat then measure it it should be spot on
There is 80% of the time only me driving mine, once I'm in its bob on all the way round
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks guys,

Bananavan, Is the van set up to account for just the drivers weight most of the time?

Clint. I made sure the springs were located in the grooves top & bottom. Although I must admit the 40mm T4SRUS blue springs dont sit in the grooves as well as the ones I took off. This is because the ends of the springs seem too 'fat' for the retaining spiral grooves?

Here are the measurements for the van as it stands at the mo. All measurements are tyre top to arch.

Front passenger---- 82mm.
Front driver--------- 90mm.
Rear passenger---- 73mm.
Rear driver--------- 68mm.

Obviously the front needs to come down but to varying degrees. Ideally I want both front measurements to be about 65mm, so slightly lower than the back.

Another thing that is odd, is that the amount of thread showing on the torsion bar from bottom of the nut to bottom of the bar is opposite to what I thought it should be.

from the measurements above you can see the front passenger side of the van is down 8mm compared to the drivers side. but the amount of thread left on the torsion bar is :-

Drivers--------- 67mm.
Passenger----- 76mm.

So according to the the general rule of 10mm = 25mm drop at the wheels, my van should be more or less 25mm lower on the drivers side but as you can see it is in fact 8mm higher??

Well Im well confused & any thoughts on this would be much appreciated before I do the life endangering front drop. I am just going to take a bit of load off the tyres & bars then do the drop (27mm ring spanner in hand & stands in place). Just wish the bars were not so far under the van.

Must admit, Im kinda sh:*ng it.. If it drops, how easy is it to get the T bars back in situ?

Cheers,

Warren
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hi All,

Soz to bump mi own thread but hoping to lower the front of the van today. Could just do with a few answers to the odd measurement questions above.

Cheers,

Warren
 

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hiya

as long as you know your springs are sat right just level the torsion bar

use axle stands

if van is sat on a level ground and the axle stands are in the same place under van at the front its prob a good idea to measure the back wheels again

if they are level then you know its the torsion bar

if they arent then you know you have something uneven at the rear

i belive some springs are slightly uneven to allow for a full blown camper conversion

this can be altered using lowering plates

they are 5mm versions of the big 20mm rubber on top of spring you replaced

t4srus sell them


if back sits fine just adjust the torsion bar

yes 10mm = 25mm

i would drop the side that is highest first down to desired height

then slowly adjust the other side to suit

make sure you do it on level surface and keep checking with a tape measure

ive always been advised to measure from a fixed point not tyre

measure from centre of hub or top of rim its more accurate.



forget about all corners are all out and visualise levelling the front

if you start measuring rear wheels and front and trying to adjust then it will probably take ages



once the front is equal the back should sit equal aswell

people have levelled up with somone sat inside but that is up to you

i didnt




i havnt had a torsion bar pop out but i believe it is a case of using a trolley jack under front wishbone to jack up so high as the torsion bar thread has enough slack on it to push the t bar back up and twist in to position.

hope this helps

clint
 
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