Have you considered a sump heater? Obviously that can only be used as a preheater, but at least it will give you a higher starting temp. Once it's running you just have to make it work hard to keep the temperature up!

My preferred solution is something like an Eberspacher Hydronic, as that heats the engine coolant, so you get a warm engine at startup - but that's a lot more expensive.

 

Most vans in Scandinavia are equipped with a webasto preheater from the factory. For some reason mine doesnt have one . Installing one myself would be a little too pricy because the van is barely worth more than 2k euro. was hoping there were some pre coded high idle in the ecu that could be activated somehow. i think its wierd how the 2.5tdi cant keep its heat. I have an old 80s nissan with a 3.3l inline 6 diesel, and that engine kept its temperature very well during last winter. It also heated up reltively fast.

 

The 2 litre engine is worse - mine takes ages in winter. I think it's inevitable as the diesel engines got more and more efficient - less waste heat (but less fuel needed). Sadly, I've never heard of a high idle feature with that ECU.

 

can you not fit a rad blind to stop cool air?
Also take a look at the EGR cooler make sure its not been removed a significant amount of heat comes from there, had a similar issue with my Navara and figured out somone had bypassed the EGR cooler matrix as it was leaking

 

No EGR cooler on these engines.
Definitely try a radiator blind though.
Maybe a higher temperature opening thermostat.
I think idle speed can be slightly adjusted using VCDS-LITE.

 

A (T5) AXD does have an oil cooler I think you are confusing it with a T4. Also, you used to be able to adjust the idle with VCDS a little with on the T4 also but I think that has now not possible on the T5. In any case that would just leave it with a permanently high idle rather than a controllable idle speed. If you put you put all loads on like A/C (on warm!) heated rear window and mirrors the extra load might help a little.

An old school radiator blind is a good idea except you would be blanking the A/C, power steering and intercooler radiators all at the front as well as the coolant radiator. Not to mention the airflow to the oil cooler. I think I'd check out the thermostat. Maybe you can get a slightly 'hotter' one. Maybe it already has that for Norway. You'd have to keep a good eye on it in Summer though, overheating is not good for aluminium cylinder heads. How about fitting a cheap Chinese diesel heater for warmth in the van? I believe you can control some of them remotely. Only to demist the windows and give you a nice warm cab to start though.

 

Yeah, my bad. I was reading a couple of threads and thought it was a T4.

 

Thank you for all the replies. According to chat gpt my van has another coolant thermostat on the oil cooler that may be stuck and allowing waterflow. I dont know how true this is, chat gpt is kinda a 50/50 bet. I guess i wil just try to live with it, the cab is warm and nice now, and i wil just see how it ends up when winter fully arrives.

the chinese dieselheater is something i wil consider if its really bad during winter. Thank you

 

No extra thermostat on the cooler. I've replaced that twice on mine and it's just a simple heat exchanger. There is a second coolant pump under the floor behind the passen... (driver in your case!) It's worth making sure it's not stuck on permanently causing overcooling. Usually they have corroded off their connections years ago sometimes due to leaking so aren't working at all. In the 22 years I have only heard mine running on boiling hot days in traffic. Some say it can come on after switching off to prevent hot spots in the head but after all this time I would know. I keep meaning to check mine but it's under a load of tin shields and I haven't got around to it. https://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/threads/coolant-leak-from-auxiliary-water-pump.1153225

Oil cooler