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Discussion Starter #1
Couldn't find very much info on this subject so had a go at the job myself and thought I’d write a quick guide if anyone else is debating doing the job themselves. Please don’t take this guide to seriously, I have probably left things out and done things wrong as I am no mechanic.

Reason for change:

Bought a van with no service history and a noise coming from clutch area which goes away when clutch is engaged but comes back under load up to about 2000rpm. Diagnosed as either thrust bearing or dual mass flywheel.

Time consuming things:

Trying to remove ball joint, which I didn’t have to in the end. Having to grind the centre of the flywheel out. Lining the gearbox back up as there is the centre spline and the offside drive shaft to line up as well.

Total time:

6-7 hours start to finish.

This was all done on my driveway with one jack and two decent axle stands a basic socket and spanner set a couple of lever bars, and a spine bit set for the flywheel bolts and driveshaft bolts. Oh and a grinder (if flywheel is damaged) and a big bit of wood!

Started by jacking the nearside jacking point and putting an axle stand right at the front of the van in front of the subframe where it bolts to the chassis, as we’ll be lowering the subframe later. Jacked up other side put axle stand on subframe this side as not dropping it down.

Wheel off, track rod end off anti roll bar drop link top nut off. Tried removing the ball joint, after 20 minutes gave up didn’t need it off in the end anyway. Drive shaft bolts out.

Up top. Maybe do this before jacking, two screws holding header tank on, I just moved it towards the battery didn't take any pipes off. Disconnected battery while I was here. Removed boost pipe, two simple clips. Removed the two linkages again two simple clips. The bracket that holds these to the gearbox, black triangle shaped thing with 3 x 13mm bolts I found one easier to undo from the wheel arch side. 2x 13mm bolts holding the slave cylinder on. Whilst up here one gearbox bolt round the back side. Remove electrical plug from gearbox (speedo? Reverse? Not too sure).

Underneath. Two 13mm nuts holding cables to the starter/bolt. Then two long bolts holding starter to gearbox/engine. A plastic guard type thing and a plug into the starter to come off. Remove starter. The rest of the gearbox bolts are accessible from the bottom, one is reversed i.e. runs from engine side into the gearbox. So next I removed all the gearbox bolts.
Lift jack to gearbox, then back to wheel arch, 5x bolts holding gearbox mount on, 2 into chassis 3 into box. Remove ones you can see lower box down to reveal the last one.

Next I removed the two nearside bolts from the subframe placed my big bit of wood towards the cab of the van and levered the subframe down slightly. This made it possible to man handle the gearbox up a bit using force and lever bars to rest on the subframe leaving enough room to access the clutch without having to drop the gearbox or subframe completely. I’m sure this isn't the right way or by any means the best but it worked for me.

I removed the thrust bearing and pressure plate to reveal that the outer part of the DMF had rotated and seized solid over the inner part making it impossible the access the bolts. Luckily there was just enough room to get my grinder in there to cut the centre out, remove flywheel. Fit new flywheel and flywheel bolts clutch pressure plate and thrust bearing.

Next trying to line the gearbox back up with the engine was a bit of a pain due to the other driveshaft spline, but kept at it and it slotted in eventually. Then pretty much the reverse of above. oh im left with a small L shaped metal bracket and 10mm bolt which I cant remember taking off! I'm sure I have missed lots out and this probably isn't the best way of doing this job, just sharing the way I did it and it worked ok for me.

Thanks.
 

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Nice one bud - sounds tricky! I am just about to try and remove my flywheel ready to swap onto my tdi engine, how deep are the grooves in your cluth ? Just looking at mine and wondering whether I should replace it or not ( they are about 1.5mm deep)
 
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