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Discussion Starter #1
It begins and I'll admit I'm gonna need some help and advice here so please chip in.

In short I've had my 1992 1.8 petrol for just over a year now, slowly but surely getting there with the mods and stuff but it's time to get technical. Last November I had the engine coverted to take LPG. Worth it for me as I do silly miles and it's paid off giving me a little extra cash to get other stuff done. It's a nice simple change with an extra bit added to the after market Weber carb I currently have fitted.

I've suspected the head gasket is on the way out for a while so I've been weighing up my options - new head etc. while seeing if there's any way of getting some extra kick. The little engine is way under powered. Not many options as the cylinder compressions are very low. Actually built that way.

In short I've opted for an engine swap but with a slight twist. Golf Gti engines are easy to come by and are almost identical to my current set up. Having been offered a complete 1.8 GTi engine for the price of a Guiness. So it's time. I collect the new engine next weekend and I'm busy in the planning dept.

I cant afford to have it off the road for long and keeping the LPG is a must so for a first go I'm going to drop the new block in and get it running on my current carb set up. This means I can just bolt it all together without the troubles of looking at fitting the injection system (although it would be nice) and a trip to my LPG man to get it changed to suit fuel injection. In the future perhaps.

So any tips / ideas? Things i do know.

1. I probably need to use my current sump pan
2. Use my current rocker head cover
3. Use my current fly wheel and gear box. New clutch will be fitted
4. use my existing inlet manifold and exhaust manifold.

Dipstick position is a slight concern.

Pics and stuff to follow soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
And so it begins.

Here is the "new" engine.

Golf Gti engine (Code PB) complete with the injection rail, manifolds and I got the ECU. Shame the loom wasn't there. Keep these for later "upgrades" if the will is there. cam belt cover has been removed - looks new but I'll change it anyway as the engine has been sat on the floor for a while. A bit grubby so a good clean needed.

 

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i was always of the understanding that it was the lpg that made converted cars head gaskets fail as they run hotter ? whats going to stop the same thing happening again ?
does your van already have an internal/external petrol pump in place or was it a mechanical pump on the engine as there may not be an outlet on the cam for working the pump ?
you dont know how good this engine is and you are on a timescale i would be more tempted to fix the head gasket on yours than spend an age swapping and fitting parts engine for it to be u/s :(
 

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Discussion Starter #6
More info on the swap.

I'm certain the block is identical to my existing block apart from cylinder compression is higher - giving the extra power.

The head is generally the same apart from valve ports, injector holes and of course the cam - again more oomph. I would have loved to put the fuel injection on but I cant have the van off the road and I haven't been able to get my head around putting the ECU onto the current electrics.

here's a couple of pics on the existing engine. Note the huge Weber carb and the LPG inlet ring sitting on top. Also note the very small distance between the top of the airbox and the wiper mechanism. I originally wanted to fit a 2.0L bottom end but being slightly taller than the 1.8 it would have snagged. :( one for later with the injection bits I think.



Better angle

 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Back to the "new unit"

As I'll be running the GTi engine on a carb I'll need to re use my existing inlet manifold. Exhaust manifold will need to the van one. Gearbox, clutch and flywheel too.

I'll also have to research the best dizzy to use. The Gti engine dizzy isn't suitable for a carb set up. While I'm sure the van dizzy will work it probably wont have the best advance curve but more to look into there.

Started getting rid of bits. Belts and manifolds off.



Busy weekend ahead I think. More prep and cleaning work.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Thanks for the encouragement guys.

Looking forward to getting into this one. Current Butty Van only has 66BHP on petrol (off the shelf). With luck the new engine will top 100BHP. (112BHP off the shelf with injection)



i was always of the understanding that it was the lpg that made converted cars head gaskets fail as they run hotter ? whats going to stop the same thing happening again ?
does your van already have an internal/external petrol pump in place or was it a mechanical pump on the engine as there may not be an outlet on the cam for working the pump ?
you dont know how good this engine is and you are on a timescale i would be more tempted to fix the head gasket on yours than spend an age swapping and fitting parts engine for it to be u/s :(

Points taken

Could be but I suspected the HG was weeping before I had the conversion done. We'll see. I agree it may go again but that's the game you play I guess. Even with a sickish HG I've done welll over 20k miles on it. I looked at repair and stuff. £400 or so. Plus the van will need a new clutch in the near future. The engine cost me £20 and new gaskets AND clutch has come to £200. So I'm winning there.

Not sure what you mean on the Pump etc. but running a GTi engine on a carb is not unique when you look on the Golf Gti forums. Engine should be decent (no guarantee I admit) but the only reason the guy took it out was to fit a 16V ABF in his. He's a Golf nut.
Basically I'll only be using the GTi block and head. The rest is the original van set up.
 

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Not sure what you mean on the Pump etc. but running a GTi engine on a carb is not unique when you look on the Golf Gti forums. Engine should be decent (no guarantee I admit) but the only reason the guy took it out was to fit a 16V ABF in his. He's a Golf nut.
Basically I'll only be using the GTi block and head. The rest is the original van set up.


was wondering if the t4 petrol already had a fuel pump in the tank or externally or if it was a manual pump running of the cam as the gti wont have a hole on the cyl head for a manual one
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Doh

Sorry. Fuel pump is on the front of the block - totally remote from the carb and head.

Good thing you mentioned it though as I need to order a couple of sealing rings to swap it over. A:T:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
right got some more done this weekend.

Firstly, took some more ancillaries off - water pump and PAS pump etc.

Time to block the injector holes. 10mm allen key gets the sleeves out.



Then block the holes with 1p coins and put the sleeves back to hold it in place. Truly adding value

 

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Discussion Starter #16
All that done it was time to really attack it. Far too dirty to stick in the Butty Van. Wash and scrub time

Back



Front, I';ve also fitted a new dizzy. Note the vacuum chamber on the side of it. K-Jet one. T:

 

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Discussion Starter #17
Cant stop now.

More cleaning and a nice paint job to finish





Pulleys and stuff gat a coat of silver paint too. really pleased with the result. Almost be a shame to bury it in the belly of a T4 now.

Couple of weeks off now. Vansurf next weekend before the big weekend after that. Scary stuff to come
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Right it's in and running. A: That was a pretty intense weekend and I'm glad work has come back so I can have a rest. :confused: strange person.

Absolutely no way I can thank my mate enough for all the help. Constant stream of tea from his better half wont go forgotten either. Without the extra know how and the odd tool here and there it would have taken me well over a week and a good few tears. Not a one person job.

The good news is it wasn't a hugely complex job. Just lots to do, a fair chunk of effort and the right tools required. I've learned loads and my best advice is eat your Weetabix!

Unfortunately I'm not quite done. :(

1. Timing is off, far too retarded so I really need to advance that.

2. Damn Golf power steering pump is different to a T4 one so I'll need to review that.

3. Most difficult problem is the dipstick. Golf one is on the front of the engine and short. T4 one comes out the back. I couldn't believe it when I compared the two engine blocks. They are ever so slightly different and repositioning the dipstick at the rear isn't possible. At the front it's ok butbeing so short and with the engine now leaning forward I'm getting oil pushing up past the dipstick. rething and a good bung needed!! LOL:

Photo's and the story of the change to follow when I can load them all up.
 

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That's great news Colyn, glad to hear its running A:

I would seal up the old dipstick tube as it won't give a correct reading with the engine leaning forward. If you must check your oil, drop it out the sump, measure it and throw it back in. Anyway you've got an oil light on the dash, what more do you want???
As long as them valve stem oil seals are good you won't lose a drop, the're good engines them 1800's.

You don't need power steering with that enormous steering wheel and also your popeye arms would waste away, that's why i can't do unhooked handlepasses LOL:

Did you say your van's retarded, i could have told you that LOL:

cheers,
crezz
 
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