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If you can, post up pics of your current mount, I'll try and dig this plan out, might have to wait a bit because London this week.
 

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Discussion Starter · #102 ·
If you can, post up pics of your current mount, I'll try and dig this plan out, might have to wait a bit because London this week.
Will do. Surprise surprise it's lashing it down again. It hasn't stopped here for a month and it's really starting to get me down.
 

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Found the plan this morning and gave it to the missus to scan, so fingers crossed I'll have it for you soon :) With you on the weather, next year I'll live out the van somewhere warm for the winter.

The general idea with my mount is that it bolts onto the standard bracket that attaches to the block, then bridges to the stock T4 mount on the chassis. I didnt want to modify either van or block, so when the engine explodes I can drop in another scrap yard engine, or if I start caring about fuel economy, I can drop a diesel in without having to change the chassis. You can see the standard bracket on the right hand side of this engine, the silver bit past the cam cover, you can just see the bolt holes on top:



This shows my mount, before the reinforcing fillets are welded on, bolted onto that bracket with the standard bolts (hence the big spacer under the bolts, theyre fine threaded m16(?) and i didn't have any short ones kicking around. You can see the box section used to attach the rubber mount, in my next version I plan to use a smaller piece of box section, so I can use a larger rubber mount (I am currently using an early 2.0 petrol mount, I have a later 1.9td mount in a box waiting to go on, and its about twice the size!). That said, I've not had an issues with the petrol mount so far.

 

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Discussion Starter · #104 ·
yeah. Just ordered one up.

Personally I'm not having much luck with this engine. There always seems to be something amiss, needs fixing or a problem to live with. There's also several things I don't like about the engineering of the 1.8t in general either.

I'm also not sure if having it stripped to bare basics has been a good or bad thing. The good side is that it's very easy to understand what's going on. Bad could be the lack of diagnostics etc. Not sure there.

But I'm stuck with it now and I do like the performance.
 

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Super wasted and nowhere near my heap of van bits and engines, but I'm 99% sure your block will be ok for the stock mount. Looks like your block has been drilled for that mount, who did that?

In the blurry top pic, it looks like the bottom half of the tensioner has been cut off, which acts as the belt shield. Tiny little bolts holding that on too.

Fwiw, I'm very happy with the 1.8t, but I probably do a lot less miles than you, currently 8k or so since it went in. Ive had issues with a slight oil leak from sump, but mostly due to my mess up with the drain plug. The biggest issue I have is lack of traction!

Pm me your email and I'll forward over the mount template. Don't forget you'll need bolts, they're fine threaded and fairly high tensile iirc, I can probably source some used for postage costs, or you can get the from tps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #107 ·
Yeah drilled when the conversion was done. it probably would have been ok had one of the bolts not worked loose for some reason. That said it doesn't look as robust as the standard 1.8t mount and your system. The tensioner is unchanged. That's the new one I'm putting on and it's at an odd angle in that photo. If you look at the damper pulley and come left to the small bolt holding the damper. Keep going left and you'll see the half hole where the block is broken.


There's also a plate been welded to the mounting arm.

Need to get back out there shortly. Yes it's raining again. Finish timing belt which I'm filling a swear box with quickly, (not the time to be learning on the job) remove and reseal sump, new sump bolt, fit upgraded alternator, and remove and clean the breather system. Change the headlights back to OEM if I get a chance too. Hoping that I can get the mount to hold temporarily.
 

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Discussion Starter · #108 · (Edited)
Thought I'd update this as I've pretty much gone through hell over the last couple of days.

Firstly the good news is that it's all back together and running. I think, hope, pray that I've sorted the oil leak issues as well. No visible puddles under it so far but I will need to get under it to check if there's anything seeping anywhere. That's another day.

Back on OEM headlights now too, with 130% bulbs and uprated loom. So much better. Ridiculous those DRL things. How there isn't a standard for the minimum light requirements for car lights is beyond me. There's a standard for everything else!

Anyway here's what I've done. By the way it's been lashing it down with rain and I've been rolling round under the van sorting these issues. Had to in the end and I needed to drive it to Reading with work. Far from pleasant and I'm not in any hurry to go there again.

jobs done are:


  • New timing belt and water pump. Water pump is now a proper steel one rather than the plastic one's that come as standard.
  • Sump removed and resealed. Interestingly I found a 1.8t sump gasket and used that. Surprisingly it was a nice steel one, about 2mm thick and I think it actually improves the clearance to the drivers side output shaft / drive shaft. 1.8t converts will know this horrible / precision area of the conversion. Personally I hate the sump detail on the conversion and on these engines in general actually.
  • Breather cleaned and new seal and pipe added.
  • The original mount is fixed back on temporarily. Surprise surprise the knocking is gone. But I'm far from happy with it and will upgrade to something along D-9's format. I currently have a hole in the block that goes right through and comes out under cylinder no. 1. The bolt plugs the hole now thankfully but previously guess what was leaking oil? Even though it was far from obvious. In brief I do not recommend this form of engine mount with this conversion.
  • Alternator upgrade to 120A to cover recharging requirements and I want it to cover my plans to add a bolt on air con system early next year.
  • Headlights back to OEM.I can see in the dark!


Still loads to do and I do need to post up some pictures of this contraption.
 

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this is mine, done for the very reason yours has failed.

This is by far and away the best way to do it. it contracts the torsional force that is created.
 

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Discussion Starter · #110 ·
Will change what I have for sure. I certainly don't like having a bolt going through the block. Barmy.

Not 100% sure why it failed but the bolt working loose and falling out certainly played a big part in it. That's what caused cracking in the tab on the block. There's actually a repair for this area available in the States. I'll be considering it.
 

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Good work getting it back together in the rain, that cambelt is a pita job when its on a stand. Did one in the the missus golf the other month and it took two of us to get the damn belt on!

Tonic - nice mount, if mine fails I'll look at something like that. Dont really want to weld the chassis thou.
 

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Discussion Starter · #112 ·
Cheers

It was far from pleasant. In no hurry to roll around under there again. I found these 2 vids that helped a lot. First one great, just for a laugh. So much useful stuff in there - especially about Mexican bolts!

Second one is spot on and is a massive help on how to change the belt on these. Really easy when you follow the tips given.

deffo watch the first though, if you half hour spare.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RlpN0Mm276g


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pfDoRbLwMqw
 
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