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Discussion Starter #1
(2005 T30 2.5tdi)
The yellow oil level warning light comes up on my dash every 60miles/100km after its been reset by the bonnet microswitch. (opening the bonnet turns the light out as it is under the assumption oil level has been rectified)
It's been a problem since my water pump gave up although that may be coincidental.
I've read about every similar account there is online and nobody has nailed the cause, it is also not limited to transporters as several Vw and Audi car owners have the same problem.
I gave it to Vw Edinburgh to fix and 2 days later they gave it back telling me not to worry about it..A: nice one guys.

Here's what I've found out online:
Yellow symbol with water line under it on constant is oil LEVEL not PRESSURE. Thankfully.
Yellow symbol flashing signifies a problem with the sensor.
The warning does not generate a fault code, and the light is put out by my bonnet catch sensor which is working fine.
Oil level seems only to be checked every 100km regardless of if the engine is hot or cold, high revving or at idle.
The threshold programmed into the ecu for turning the light on is not variable so it cannot fall out of calibration or be changed.

Has anybody seen this problem before?
Could it be to do with viscosity of oil? I have had the oil changed 3 times since the water pump failure and there is still some emulsification/signs of moisture in the oil (not losing a drop of coolant anymore)

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Yellow oil light problem fixed!

Been putting up with this problem for a while as I had no clear answers from the garage...
Finally got round to changing my oil level/temperature sensor on the sump and voila! My problems are solved!
I can only assume that the sensor was damaged as a result of coolant in the sump when my water pump failed.

For anybody who is having problems with the yellow oil light coming on (warning tone and light on until bonnet is opened) if your levels are fine my advice would be to change out the sensor- 20 minute job and cost me £55 for the part. If your yellow oil light flashes 3-4 times on key turn and then goes out it signifies a wiring fault to the sensor.

To change the sensor you need to remove the plastic cover on the underside of the engine, drain the oil by removing the sump plug, remove the thermal jacket on the sump which is simply held on by 3 plastic screws in plugs- undo the screw with a slotted screwdriver then prize the plugs out. The sensor is next to the sump plug and is held on with 3 T30 torx bit screws. Then it's a case of re-assembly and replacing the oil ( I just measured what came out and put an equal amount back in)

Hope this helps somebody- I was pulling my hair out as Vw and my local guy couldn't get to the bottom of it but as is quite often the case the fix was simple and not too costly.
 

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Many thanks, I've had the same issue for a couple of years now and its about to go in for a clutch overhaul and service. I shall get hold of a new sensor so it can be replaced at the same time as this service
 

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Hi,
Just to say i had the light coming on every 60 miles. Sensor was changed and now its fine. A local VW specialist (Blackridge in Bedford) charged me £150 for a genuine sensor and fitting.
 

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Thanks Thekaydog, this problem has been plaguing me for a while. I suspected it was the sump sensor as I've already changed the bonnet catch on my 04 T30 174 Kombi, just haven't got round to doing it yet. I:
Will get this done on the next oil change.
 

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If this is the sensor, (G62 I think) that's located in the engine sump then it's a combined oil level & oil temperature sensor.
This item can be faulty without the oil light flashing so don't just assume that because the light is not flashing it's not faulty.

What you have to remember with sensors like this is the fault codes are only logged if that type fault is detected. The designers of these systems think of many of the fault options, but not always every one so consequently not all faults are logged when there is a fault.

If you have changed this sensor for a new one then I'd start looking at the bonnet switch, maybe disconnecting it & putting a link in it's place to rule that particular item out. Depending upon how the switch works, either Normally Open or Normally Closed, a link may or may not be required to show the bonnet is closed.
Once you've confirmed this switch is OK, then you need to start looking at the wiring from the sensor to the ECU. Check all/any plugs for signs of corrosion & clean as necessary. A little silicone grease on the plugs & contacts will help prevent future problems.

Sadly fault finding these sorts of problems are never easy, sometimes you get lucky & sometimes it seems to take forever.
 
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