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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Got a bit done over the last few days with the half decent weather.

Tuns out that the stock oil drain line was ever so slightly too short, had to 'fabricate' a new one




Given that this is a gravity fed line, I'm assuming (hoping!) that this rudimentary approach with jubilee clips should work.

One job sorted, followed by another screw up. The threads on my banjo bolt for the turbo oil feed line was ever so slightly off. This in turn resulted in stripped threads. Not happy.



Cue an eBay special. Hopefully that's all sorted now.

Finally got the short shift sorted. It's bloody short!



Finally got the mk4 integrated MAP and IAT sensor installed. Much cleaner given the vac line simplification that I'm trying to stick to...



I've noticed that the PAS pump bracket has worked itself loose - which hopefully explains my heavy steering issue. Need to find the exact belt required though. All the motor factors seem to have the wrong one on file. The only upside to all this is the fact that I want to replace the sump and clean all the sealant that's down there (a ridiculous amount!). I'm not looking forward to that at all...
 
Discussion starter · #22 · (Edited)
Realised that's it's been a while since I last updated the thread so I thought it was high time I did so, with all the sun that we've been seeing.

Decided that it was a better idea to use waterproof connector from the MAP sesnor to the ECU, instead of the molex ones that I had in place; it also gave me a chance to upgrade from the horrid stuff that I had connected to some nice 1mm2 cable. Wrapped it all up in some nice cloth tape while I was out there.



Also managed to mock up the new intercooler pipes to - was a much better solution for all of 20 minutes, before a moment of madness where I decided to cut the wrong silicone hose. Absolutely livid. Also, The amount of times that I got the length of straight alloy pipe wrong was ridiculous. If anyone needs a 51mm 300mm or 20mm length, let me know; I have one of each spare!





Just waiting for a pipe beader to go to town on the angled pipes which had to be cut down.

Thought I'd use the time with the van jacked up to replace the sump. I didn't realise that I had so many busted threads in the block - might explain all the oil leaks on the drive. I've a feeling that this will be coming off again soon.



With the invaluable help of nicklouse's thread on here (http://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=375922) I managed to get the rear ARB fitted this evening. I can't stress enough that washing up liquid is an absolute godsend when fitting the bushings. Can't wait to finally get it back on the road.



Another thing of note, if ordering the kit of Brickwerks, make sure that you correct the number of M6 items (rivnuts, washers, bolts) from the default of 8 to 12. I wasted a fiver in postage because of this.
 
looking good bud was the clock conversion easy or hard in the process of swapping engine and i have the olg clocks like you but i would much rather have the blue one with the rev counter cheers keep up the good work
 
Discussion starter · #24 · (Edited)
It was pretty simple, provided you get the right clocks.

I got mine of an earlier model 2.5TDI (pre-CANBUS). All I had to do was modify the loom so the corresponding wires went to the old type pins and ground the parts that I didn't require (e.g. emissions warning, ABS...etc.).

There are a few threads on here which go in to quite a bit of detail.

EDIT - This thread is invaluable when it comes to fitting blue clocks: http://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=104763
 
thanks for the reply really need to get these clocks fitted once my van is back next week am i correct in thinking if i buy the newer 99 on tdi speedo loom i can fit the new clocks tbh i have no idea :*
 
Discussion starter · #28 · (Edited)
Cheers guys. The only depressing thing is that I've only driven it a handful of times since I bought it (not mentioning the money I've spent rectifying mistakes!), though the London LEZ was a massive setback.

Anyhow, a forced day off work and no rain meant progress - or so you would have thought. I did however learn a lot about the MSA15 ECU (and that it is godawful in so many ways!). First and foremost, for those of you planning a VNT upgrade without a complete ECU overhaul (I'm increasingly thinking about under taking it, I'm fed up of seeing this screen):



don't make the mistake of picking up any AFN ECU/software you con find. Ideally, it should be software coded for manual - the auto software isn't the biggest fan of having the soft. coding recoded and try to find one that is of a similar year (as stated on the case) to your own. The reason I say this is that, after flashing 028906021GL SW onto a pair of EEPROM cruise control decided it wanted to throw a wobble (or so I thought):



Resulting in a CEL (brake monitoring - implausible signal). As a side note, I'd advise everyone to edit their corresponding VAG COM label file so that the switch labels for F and F36 are the correct way round. It doesn't get half annoying after a while!

I THINK that on some ECUs the brake and clutch switches are subject to some kind on inversion (logic anyone) - hence voltage high signifies a binary 0 in VAG COM and vice versa. Something that I'll look into when I can find the time to scan through ridiculous amounts of hex values. 028906021JJ SW (used in a Seat Alhambra) seems to be fine, but I really don't like the look of some of the maps (e.g. a boost limiter that has an axis that only goes up to ~ 1100mBar atmospheric... but I digress).

Also got the EGT gauge finally fitted with dimmer control to boot. Chuffed.

 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
After less cranking than expected, I managed to fire it up today. Not for long though:



Diesel everywhere. It appears to be coming from the (replaced) fuel return line and the fuel filter, hence the lack of air lock after changing the injectors AND clearing the fuel pump pipes. The return line's and easy one. Does anyone know the ACTUAL diameter for the fuel lines. I could have sworn that i read 8mm on here somewhere - but that is nowhere near (and is leaking at both end). Does anybody happen to know the actual diameter?

As for the filter, I'm stumped. I understand that there's a leak at the return end, but for it to also leak out of the bottom as well (the valve is closed tight and this has never leaked before - it's fairly new)? Seems a tad odd.
 
Discussion starter · #30 · (Edited)
Argh!

Diesel leaks fixed (turns out it was 6mm hose and not 8). The filter side leak was also from the hose. I didn't think the pump returned so much fuel! I also finished the most important mod (only two years late):



Also screwed the cupholder down that I got from Steban on here. Cheers mate! Now to get me a forum
Travel mug!



What should be a prep for for my downpipe appointment on Thursday appears to be going not so well. I thought I read somewhere that the darkside flange would fit this turbo. Turns out I read incorrectly:



Back to the drawing board. Looks like yet another deadline missed! Does anyone know of somebody local to London that will do me a couple of flanges with a quick turnaround? Even more so does anybody need a flange for a VNT17? I've got one going spare!
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
Some of you may have seen my 'whinge thread' (http://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=389876) in the engine section. Anyhow, 600 notes lighter and I have some kind of downpipe and an engine that starts again:



The garage were incredibly vague when it came to explaining how they managed to get the motor to start again (resealed injectors, diesel in oil is all they kept talking about). One thing they did say was that the timing belt was stripped and needed changing which they would replace it for an extra 300 - no way! So I had the van trailered back and (after they had completely flattened the battery removed a ton of fuses and ruined my headlight upgrade loom - suffice to say i won't be going back there (they've ruined my lovely PPT side exit exhaust, so it's no longer a bolt on affair):



So time for the belt swap? Not quite. Turns out that the belt hadn't been stripped; quite the opposite:



The belt had somehow melted part of the lower timing belt cover and taken some with it. Never mind; off with the old and on with the new...

These new injector appear to be incredibly smoky (white). I'm beginning to think that I went a little too big with the Xtraflo nozzles. Finding anyone to map it around these parts appears to be incredibly difficult as well... Never a dull moment!
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
While the engine woes are ongoing, I picked up a new toy to complement the 6.5 t-line box and focal k2s:



Needs a little more tweaking, but with the mids and tweeters running in bridged mode, I can't fault it one bit. If anything it has exposed my poor tweeter placement.

Returning to the engine issues, I noticed that on return of the van from the garage, I was getting no oil pressure and the filter was bone dry. On the advice from JohnCa, I pulled the vac pump; but it all looked fine. What next? But a new oil pump and haul the sump off. What did I find?



The oil pump dropped to hit me in the face. It appears that somehow it had become loose :*. That's all been put back together, but what worries me is that that the top of the thread appears to be stripped, hence not getting the best purchase. I guess we'll see if it causes an issue. Given that I finished replacing the sump at 11pm on the drive, I've not been able to put the rest of the front end (and induction piping)/test whether this was the cause of the lack of oil flow. We shall see.
 
Discussion starter · #34 · (Edited)
Thought the van had been a little smoky as of recent, so while I was messing with vag-com looking at MFA solutions, I thought I'd look at block 4:



How the hell has that happened!? :eek:

EDIT - that 27.9 static BTDC figure and control start deviation code worries me greatly. A failing NLS possibly (cold resistance checks out - 96.5Ω)?
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
So what was supposed to be back on the road for summer '11 looks like it won't be until summer '15 at the earliest.

I've only gone and thought of another ridiculous project to undertake…



If I pull this off and can say goodbye to pulling chips everytime I change an engine component it'll be well worth it!
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
After a few grounding issues and sparks (namely a loose nut and the fact that all the grounds and B+ on both connectors HAVE to be connected ), we finally have k-line comms!





What is strange is the fact that you are able to read the flash using KWP-1281 over the K-line alone. I thought the whole point was that these later EDC15 units were CANBUS based and this allowed the read/write over OBD port? Maybe I'm missing the point.
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
So it's time for a (kind of) break from the ECU swap. Decided to remove as much of the the Sigma SG20 alarm/immobiliser. I can believe how badly the thing had been installed to begin with; insulation tape in the worst places and as for the actual application - put it this way; it would have been INCREDIBLY easy to defeat.



Anyone got any good suggestions to a good replacement?
 
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