Interesting. I’ll have to do some background reading, as I have no CAN pins at my diagnostics port. If it’s as easy to retrofit as I hope, I may well go down this route.
Even if I end up using the Saxo EHPAS route (it’s highly likely) it can’t hurt to have a powertrain CANBUS, right?
Any progress on the gearbox fitting? I tore mine apart again after we moved a few months ago, and have been staring at it longingly. The 0a5 4mo box is fitted to the motor right now, but without completely removing the power steering rack, it wont fit correctly. I made up some adapters to convert the 0a5 stubs to 114mm cv flanges from the van, but its about 2" too wide, so at least one axle needs to be shortened. Not ideal.
So I'm back to futzing with the 02m, gonna do that today. I think I can use the 108mm 5 speed axles and CVs that I have with that, and the bigger tires will put the TT gas gearing about where I need it.
I was re skimming here and you guys were talking of a 4mo vr6 box that was canted forwards, I didnt think any of the 4 pots would bolt up to the vr6 boxes? I doubt I would have luck finding an r32 box around here anyways...
vr6 box that was canted forwards, I didnt think any of the 4 pots would bolt up to the vr6 boxes? I doubt I would have luck finding an r32 box around here anyways...
the vr engines lean forewards so the bellhousing is more suited to t4 use BUT as you say, 4 cylinders do not fit the vr bolt pattern
golf v5 gearboxes are same as vr gearboxes
the vr engines lean forewards so the bellhousing is more suited to t4 use BUT as you say, 4 cylinders do not fit the vr bolt pattern
golf v5 gearboxes are same as vr gearboxes
Right, that's what I thought. Darn VAG for not making it easier. I was really hoping to get the T5 box I have fitted, but without rebuilding the subframe (no thanks...), the 4motion transfer box won't fit with the steering rack. A 2wd box might though, and its canted forwards, just not as much as the T4 boxes.
It’s been a while since I’ve looked at any of this (the caddy is taking up all of my time at the moment), but I’ve a clutch cover from a V6 box which I believe lines up with the bolts on the AHU block.
So if you leave a vehicle out in the elements for x amount of years with no protection, you have no right to complain when it starts to rot in places.
However (and I get that the photo isn’t great), I can’t help but think some shenanigans have gone on here. It’s almost as if there are a few layers here, which might indicate a previous bodge (even more than I would). Is there a reason why there’d be more than two layers of (what was once) steel here? I’m assuming there’s an inner wing/arch which the panel is tacked to?
I missed the delivery of all the welding stuff that I needed, so it sure as hell won’t be happening this weekend.
I think that’s the extent of it, so now I need to figure out a plan of attack. Looks like I’ll have to sacrifice a lot of the healthy part of the wing in order to get inside the arch. I don’t think any steel merchants will be open until Tuesday unfortunately, so there’s not much I can really do.
As much as I didn’t want to, you were right. Cutting the rotten section from the inner wing was an absolute pain as it was difficult to get to with a standard grinder.
Despite the appearance, the rest seems to be solid, so I’ll clean that up and get some paint in there before I close it up. I’ve plenty of time as I’ve either got to get hold of an inner wing of some plate (ideally the former).
Gearing up to get this done over the weekend (I’ve welded once before in my life and it wasn’t great (bracket still holds to this day though!) and would I be right in thinking that you’ve Sean welded that section at top and spots at the side?
I was thinking about butt welding with a series of tacks but is there’s a method I should be thinking about that will cause less distortion; I’m all ears!
So I’ve sacked off the bodywork for a while (the weather round these parts have been shite, plus the welder needs a service) and have decided to have a look at the 02M gearbox. The initial plan was to design and have a lower mount milled from steel - this is as far as I got:
Only to find when (struggling to) hold the box in place - this:
The lower mount points of the new box compared to the 02B box are completely off. I’m somewhat amiss as to how I’m going to get around this, so it could take a while. Despite the difference in the way the 2 boxes are canted, there shouldn’t be to much issue with engine, bulkhead interference once the upper mounts have been figured out. Driveshaft/shock absorbers clearance could be interesting though…
The upper gearbox mount should be pretty straightforward - the only issue is whether my welder is powerful enough to weld steel thick enough.
I’ve reached a point where reverting to the 02B is pretty much off the cards, so I’ll have to figure this all out somehow.
Gearing up to get this done over the weekend (I’ve welded once before in my life and it wasn’t great (bracket still holds to this day though!) and would I be right in thinking that you’ve Sean welded that section at top and spots at the side?
I was thinking about butt welding with a series of tacks but is there’s a method I should be thinking about that will cause less distortion; I’m all ears!
Ooooh, bummer. For the super thin sheet metal like that, you'll want to do a number of tacks, start maybe 2 inches apart, even just at the corners to hold it in place, then start cutting the distances in half between the welds. Work your way around as you go, don't get any one spot too hot or weld on it for too long as you'll blow holes in it in no time otherwise. For the thinner stuff I like to watch the glow from the weld and let it cool from red hot, wait a second or two, and then go again. Short kind of pulses/bursts at a time. if you have any scrap from what you cut off lying around, practice a few runs to get a feel of what it will do. Biggest thing is take your time, and remember, a grinder and paint can make you the welder you ain't.
Source: Hobby welder, definitely not a professional over here. I do much better with the thicker stuff myself.
The lower mount points of the new box compared to the 02B box are completely off. I’m somewhat amiss as to how I’m going to get around this, so it could take a while. Despite the difference in the way the 2 boxes are canted, there shouldn’t be to much issue with engine, bulkhead interference once the upper mounts have been figured out. Driveshaft/shock absorbers clearance could be interesting though…
The upper gearbox mount should be pretty straightforward - the only issue is whether my welder is powerful enough to weld steel thick enough.
I’ve reached a point where reverting to the 02B is pretty much off the cards, so I’ll have to figure this all out somehow.
Interesting. I ran into the same thing when trying to fit a pendulum mount on the T5 box. I mocked up a makeshift pendulum mount out of 3/8" rod, some short pieces of angle steel and a generic sway bar mount bushing kit with nuts on either end to adjust it. It's not pretty or super strong, but at least the motor and gearbox aren't swinging all ***** nilly every time I cough. I still dont' know what I'm going to do for the final mount, but it's working for now. One thing you could do would be to weld a section of angle steel to the underside of the subframe, notch a U shape in it for the pendulum mount and that way you would have tabs on either side to bolt it to. Maybe use some 4-6mm angle. Or lop off the end of the T4 mount, unbolt the aluminum dog bone portion of the 02m mount, and weld them together with a plate in between. A little triangulation would help keep it in line if they weren't on the same center line. I've found cutting 45s from the 1.5" steel bars that I grab at the hardware store works well for little braces. You can also cut/move the mounts for the T4 mount off of the subframe and reweld them where you want them to be.
There's another thread I was reading today of someone working on an adapter plate for a T4. The 02n box from a Sharan is more upright and might be a little better suited angle wise But that means you may have to buy more stuff, and I know how that goes. He was going to have the case where the adapter mounts shaved down by 10mm so that the adapter plate he was using would be flush mounted when the block gets fitted back to it. That is a genius thought and will keep from having to use a flywheel adapter and longer flywheel bolts that are torqued to kingdom come at baseline, but again, introduces more cost and shenanigans. Run what you got when all else fails!
At what point does one consider giving up? Finally got the rear n/s wing patched up and filled only to find the following:
The n/s inner sill and o/s outrigger are an absolute state. I’m seriously considering jacking it all in. To make matters worse, when I last had the van sprayed, the n/s outrigger had rotted through and the last bodyshop was supposed to sort it out. Turns out they just sealed the new one on top of the old rotten one. That’ll have to be sorted as well.
This is quickly turning into what I really didn’t want, a full driveway restoration…
On another note, does anyone happen to know what this part is?
It’s a rather brittle bit of plastic that was clipped in behind the offside indicator. If I can get away without it, it’s going straight in the bin.
521 - 540 of 564 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
A forum community dedicated to Volkswagen T4 owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, conversions, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!