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Only (almost) 3 years late.

112K views 563 replies 40 participants last post by  LawAnderson 
#1 · (Edited)
WARNING: VERY IMAGE HEAVY!

Like the title says, I've had the van almost three years (and it's only seen the road a handful of times!) and have yet to start (without lack of trying!) a build thread. I'll start off with photos that I've managed to find and become more in depth as time goes on (Big things planned for this year; injectors, VNT conversion rear ARB...etc.)

The closest I have to a photo from the state it was in when I first got hold of it:


I bought blind and thought I was getting a 1.9TD, and all the documentation said so, turns out that someone had stuck a 1X in at somepoint


Bulkhead removed:


Cab interior complete stripped for clean/dash paint.


Flashbanding:



Floor rust repair:


Insulating:





Carpeting, headlining and flooring:






 
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18
#2 · (Edited)
Gonna split these posts up as it was starting to get a tad ridiculous!

TDi Conversion:

Donor; 97 Golf (1z) with 141k on the clock :




All removed!




Van ancilliaries on 1z:



Corrado VR6 clutch:


All ready to go in!:




2.5 throttle pedal in:


Trial fitting the Sprinter intercooler:


Blue clock conversion - before:


After:



PPT side mount exhaust:


Sourced some of those Czech ebay chips
 
#4 ·
Started to work on a little AV stuff; including a T-line box (packs a punch for a small 6.5 inch sub driver)



Audi A8 seats fitted; makeshift looms created:


Makeshift bases modified (later to be replaced with box steel)


Seats fitted:



More Ikea unit/SMEV combinations!





New boots (courtesy of paulm on here; cheers mate!)




Brake overhaul; before...


...and after:



Suspension and all:



Power windows:


Drop out vent hole - incredibly daunting drilling that!


RCB installed along with split charge kit and mains battery charger:
 
#10 ·
Quick Q. Has anyone got any ideas on how to clean out the injector ports without removing the head/getting any of the crud to drop into the chamber? Or shall I leave it be?

Even more so has anyone local(ish) got an injector puller I could borrow? Only one of them was willing to play ball with the 15 mm spanner...
 
#11 ·
The overglorified 'Shake Weight' arrived in the post, so the old injectors that I suspect are responsible for my diesel knock have been ripped out:


Turns out that the actual injectors aren't as bad as I expected them to be, but those nozzles are absoluely caked in soot...


Managed to get Rake's massive hole injectors in, but I've a feeling that they'll have to come out soon (as soon as the turbo conversion's done); There appeared to be a lot of resistance, so I'm assuming the ports could do with a good clean.


The only downside to the whole operation though - looks like I'll be heading back to the body shop sooner that I would have liked.


Time to start saving those pennies!
 
#15 ·
All looking good matey..T:
Cheers guys.

Turk, to be honest all this is nothing compared to the time and effort you've put into the quad headlamp project. I've been keeping an eye since early on and I'm absolutely amazed. I'd swap in a heartbeat.

Keep up the great work!
 
#21 ·
Got a bit done over the last few days with the half decent weather.

Tuns out that the stock oil drain line was ever so slightly too short, had to 'fabricate' a new one




Given that this is a gravity fed line, I'm assuming (hoping!) that this rudimentary approach with jubilee clips should work.

One job sorted, followed by another screw up. The threads on my banjo bolt for the turbo oil feed line was ever so slightly off. This in turn resulted in stripped threads. Not happy.



Cue an eBay special. Hopefully that's all sorted now.

Finally got the short shift sorted. It's bloody short!



Finally got the mk4 integrated MAP and IAT sensor installed. Much cleaner given the vac line simplification that I'm trying to stick to...



I've noticed that the PAS pump bracket has worked itself loose - which hopefully explains my heavy steering issue. Need to find the exact belt required though. All the motor factors seem to have the wrong one on file. The only upside to all this is the fact that I want to replace the sump and clean all the sealant that's down there (a ridiculous amount!). I'm not looking forward to that at all...
 
#22 · (Edited)
Realised that's it's been a while since I last updated the thread so I thought it was high time I did so, with all the sun that we've been seeing.

Decided that it was a better idea to use waterproof connector from the MAP sesnor to the ECU, instead of the molex ones that I had in place; it also gave me a chance to upgrade from the horrid stuff that I had connected to some nice 1mm2 cable. Wrapped it all up in some nice cloth tape while I was out there.



Also managed to mock up the new intercooler pipes to - was a much better solution for all of 20 minutes, before a moment of madness where I decided to cut the wrong silicone hose. Absolutely livid. Also, The amount of times that I got the length of straight alloy pipe wrong was ridiculous. If anyone needs a 51mm 300mm or 20mm length, let me know; I have one of each spare!





Just waiting for a pipe beader to go to town on the angled pipes which had to be cut down.

Thought I'd use the time with the van jacked up to replace the sump. I didn't realise that I had so many busted threads in the block - might explain all the oil leaks on the drive. I've a feeling that this will be coming off again soon.



With the invaluable help of nicklouse's thread on here (http://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=375922) I managed to get the rear ARB fitted this evening. I can't stress enough that washing up liquid is an absolute godsend when fitting the bushings. Can't wait to finally get it back on the road.



Another thing of note, if ordering the kit of Brickwerks, make sure that you correct the number of M6 items (rivnuts, washers, bolts) from the default of 8 to 12. I wasted a fiver in postage because of this.
 
#24 · (Edited)
It was pretty simple, provided you get the right clocks.

I got mine of an earlier model 2.5TDI (pre-CANBUS). All I had to do was modify the loom so the corresponding wires went to the old type pins and ground the parts that I didn't require (e.g. emissions warning, ABS...etc.).

There are a few threads on here which go in to quite a bit of detail.

EDIT - This thread is invaluable when it comes to fitting blue clocks: http://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=104763
 
#28 · (Edited)
Cheers guys. The only depressing thing is that I've only driven it a handful of times since I bought it (not mentioning the money I've spent rectifying mistakes!), though the London LEZ was a massive setback.

Anyhow, a forced day off work and no rain meant progress - or so you would have thought. I did however learn a lot about the MSA15 ECU (and that it is godawful in so many ways!). First and foremost, for those of you planning a VNT upgrade without a complete ECU overhaul (I'm increasingly thinking about under taking it, I'm fed up of seeing this screen):



don't make the mistake of picking up any AFN ECU/software you con find. Ideally, it should be software coded for manual - the auto software isn't the biggest fan of having the soft. coding recoded and try to find one that is of a similar year (as stated on the case) to your own. The reason I say this is that, after flashing 028906021GL SW onto a pair of EEPROM cruise control decided it wanted to throw a wobble (or so I thought):



Resulting in a CEL (brake monitoring - implausible signal). As a side note, I'd advise everyone to edit their corresponding VAG COM label file so that the switch labels for F and F36 are the correct way round. It doesn't get half annoying after a while!

I THINK that on some ECUs the brake and clutch switches are subject to some kind on inversion (logic anyone) - hence voltage high signifies a binary 0 in VAG COM and vice versa. Something that I'll look into when I can find the time to scan through ridiculous amounts of hex values. 028906021JJ SW (used in a Seat Alhambra) seems to be fine, but I really don't like the look of some of the maps (e.g. a boost limiter that has an axis that only goes up to ~ 1100mBar atmospheric... but I digress).

Also got the EGT gauge finally fitted with dimmer control to boot. Chuffed.

 
#29 ·
After less cranking than expected, I managed to fire it up today. Not for long though:



Diesel everywhere. It appears to be coming from the (replaced) fuel return line and the fuel filter, hence the lack of air lock after changing the injectors AND clearing the fuel pump pipes. The return line's and easy one. Does anyone know the ACTUAL diameter for the fuel lines. I could have sworn that i read 8mm on here somewhere - but that is nowhere near (and is leaking at both end). Does anybody happen to know the actual diameter?

As for the filter, I'm stumped. I understand that there's a leak at the return end, but for it to also leak out of the bottom as well (the valve is closed tight and this has never leaked before - it's fairly new)? Seems a tad odd.
 
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