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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all

3 months ago my engine suddenly cut out on me on the motorway as I took the foot off the accelerator. I managed to get it started up again with my foot on the throttle, but it would stall again next time I took the foot of the accelerator. The AA guy looked at it for a good hour and eventually concluded it was a partially seized alternator as it suddenly started smoking after 20 minutes of running.

Since then I have changed the alternator, glow plugs and have also checked that the immobiliser is working fine. Vagcom doesn't give any error codes. I turned the idle controlling screw a little, so its idling at around 950-1000 now.

The situation now is that

I can start the engine as long as I push the accelerator down - it will then smoke a little. Without pushing the accelerator it only starts 1 out of 5 times, and will take quite some time.

As long as I have the choke pulled out it idles ok, though sometimes it oscillates a little.

If I push the choke in, or if I use electricity (lights + blowers on), it will start oscillating quite heavily, +- 200 often, and then stall. If I push down the accelerator, the revs are constant. If I accelerate without throttle pulled out and then let go of the accelerator, the engine will stall.


Has anyone experienced this before or got any ideas? Had it in the garage for 3 days, but they couldn't figure out what it was. Twice last year I turned off the engine and pulled the key out, but the engine kept running. I only just remembered this, and am thinking maybe a dodgy cut off valve? But then again, it seems to run fine at higher revs and when the alternator isn't putting extra work on the engine.

Video showing the engine at idle with choke pulled, and then choke pushed in leading to oscillations and a quick stall:
https://flic.kr/p/r9B4Ss

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Moritz
 

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Hi mate

what year van mate?

Have they checked the Crank Pulley? Common failure point.
Sounds like a timing issue and the pulley can give this as sounds like it may have
jumped a tooth which is why better with cold start pulled out.


best of luck
Mike
 

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As for the starting with and without cold start lever I would say this is down to timing. Mine always needed the cold start lever to start. I replaced my lifters and reset the timing spot on and now I don't need the locks start advance. The fluctuating is something I also occasionally get on mine but I have never got to the bottom of it ! As for VCDS check, I am not sure wha the checked as there is no ecu!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the replies. its a 2001.

Have they checked the Crank Pulley? Common failure point.
Sounds like a timing issue and the pulley can give this as sounds like it may have
jumped a tooth which is why better with cold start pulled out.
I had timing belt and crank pullez changed last summer, so would be quite surprised it it was that. Can't see any wobble when I run it.

In terms of starting with and without cold lever, its basically the same, always need to push the accelerator down. The cold lever only makes a difference in terms of whether or not it will oscillate and stall.

I don't get this whole ecu or no ecu thing. I bought a cheap cable of ebay and installed VCDS lite, and it run through the different systems fine.
 

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There is no engine control unit. You can go into dash 017 and read of coolant temp and a few other bits with vcds but there is no diagnosis in 001 engine. I take it you haven't been tdi'd and it is the original abl engine??
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
There is no engine control unit. You can go into dash 017 and read of coolant temp and a few other bits with vcds but there is no diagnosis in 001 engine. I take it you haven't been tdi'd and it is the original abl engine??
Yeah, original abl, td.
 
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