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Buy a timing belt kit.
There probably the easiest belts to do as everything locks off that needs to be locked off.
But if you are not 100% confident then don't risk it as it then becomes a possible engine rather than just a belt and pump

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One of the reasons for asking what tests the garage have done is because I would expect a "sniff test" to be pretty conclusive in a case like this. If it is a failure of the water pump you would expect that test to show a negative result.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I'm starting to formulate a plan or sequence of things I need to do.

Thank you so much guys very much appreciated - what are your thoughts about maybe getting the water pump upgraded because of the remapping from 84 - 156bhp or not really beneficial?
 

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TBH I don't think it should be necessary unless you're ragging it the whole time. Most modern diesels are pretty efficient, and the cooling will have been sized so that it can routinely cope with pulling 5 tonnes GTW up big hills. You can, but I wouldn't bother if it were mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Thanks triffic

Got the radiator thermoswitch and the thermostat this morning but I won't fit them until I decide what to do about the water pump. Im'm thinking about driving the van again and getting my son to rev the engine and checking whether I can see bubbling rising in the reservoir tank as FWD indicated, but I don't know whether that would be boiling over or gas bubbles from the gasket. But I don't think I would tackle a head gasket change myself but will look to see if the water pump change is more within my DIYer skills, or not worth the risk.

Thanks again
 

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If the water pump hasn't been done it's worth doing, you will soon see if the impeller is slipping once you get it in your hands because you will be able to turn it while you are holding the cam belt drive cog still. If the pump is ok and the thermostat turns out not to be jammed closed then the head gasket it very likely imo. Blocked rads are possible but very rare these days, No need to change the rad, as long as it is not showing any leaks it could do another 100k. However If there are any leaks however small on the seams it means the extra coolant pressure has damaged it.

You could do the cam belt yourself but if you get the tensioning wrong it could prove very expensive! If you have done many other cam belts it isn't a bad one at all, plenty of room but make sure you get the manual and the correct tools.

Do you you get any residual pressure hiss when you open the coolant bottle with the engine stone cold in the morning?
 

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Discussion Starter #28
If the water pump hasn't been done it's worth doing, you will soon see if the impeller is slipping once you get it in your hands because you will be able to turn it while you are holding the cam belt drive cog still. If the pump is ok and the thermostat turns out not to be jammed closed then the head gasket it very likely imo. Blocked rads are possible but very rare these days, No need to change the rad, as long as it is not showing any leaks it could do another 100k. However If there are any leaks however small on the seams it means the extra coolant pressure has damaged it.

You could do the cam belt yourself but if you get the tensioning wrong it could prove very expensive! If you have done many other cam belts it isn't a bad one at all, plenty of room but make sure you get the manual and the correct tools.

Do you you get any residual pressure hiss when you open the coolant bottle with the engine stone cold in the morning?
Hi T5 TDI

Thanks for your info above

This will be the first cam belt change so I will study up but if still unsure willl get the garage to do it.

With regards to residual pressure hiss when I open the coolant - Yes and it bubbles up but I haven't used it for 2 days now and just checked for the hiss - is that good?

Thanks for your help
 

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Trust me the belts are easy on these engines.
The crank has a mark on the tooth part or in between.
The cam gear pins up. The tensioner has markings for correct tension.
The biggest issue is that someone has done it incorrectly before and that could throw you off a little.
YouTube will probably have step by step guidance on it.
Everything else is make sure you tightened it correctly but not to tight

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Save all the stripping of the belt, take the thermostat out and I'm pretty sure ou can see the back of the water pump the impeller part. Try and turn/ move it without touching the cambelt but I'd also say more likely the headgasket.

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Discussion Starter #31
Thanks Guys for your support,

I'll try the thermostat first and see if I can check out the water pump impeller, but if it's not been changed to date I would feel better getting it changed anyway.

I've had a look at the 2014 - 2.0 - T5 cam belt change - seems okay, but he had to take off the wheel and the an engine mount and supported it with a jack on the sump to support the engine via a block of wood - which made me nervous.

I'll check out some other videos and my Haynes Manual
 

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I've had a look at the 2014 - 2.0 - T5 cam belt change - seems okay, but he had to take off the wheel and the an engine mount and supported it with a jack on the sump to support the engine via a block of wood - which made me nervous.
Taking the engine mounting off is a common start for most cambelt jobs. No problem with supporting the engine with a jack and a wood block to protect the sump.

Trust me the belts are easy on these engines.
Call me Mr conservative but without knowing their experience I wouldn't recommend anyone to do their own cambelt and certainly not call it easy. Do they understand stretch bolt tightening? Do they understand to the purpose of the keyless cam sprocket that they will need to loosen? If they get it wrong and wreck their engine you won't be paying..
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Taking the engine mounting off is a common start for most cambelt jobs. No problem with supporting the engine with a jack and a wood block to protect the sump.



Call me Mr conservative but without knowing their experience I wouldn't recommend anyone to do their own cambelt and certainly not call it easy. Do they understand stretch bolt tightening? Do they understand to the purpose of the keyless cam sprocket that they will need to loosen? If they get it wrong and wreck their engine you won't be paying..

I've not heard of either of those 2 terminologies - I've heard of torque settings and wrenches

So that will be a no then
 

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I'd crack on with it mate.
I'm here if you need guidance.
I've done thousands of these belts.
I'll be doing my own soon.
If you are not confident don't do it to save risk

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I'd crack on with it mate.
I'm here if you need guidance.
I've done thousands of these belts.
I'll be doing my own soon.
If you are not confident don't do it to save risk

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Oh I'd like to add I work for Volkswagen but car not commercial

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Discussion Starter #36
What is

"Do they understand stretch bolt tightening? Do they understand to the purpose of the keyless cam sprocket that they will need to loosen?"

Is it to do with the locking pins and lighting up the marks or some else completely different - just looked up the terminologies and I think it is, but, the stretch bolt means it can only be used once so a new will will need to be installed with the new part at the correct torque setting

Am I correct?
 

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There isnt any stretch bolts on the 1.9 tdi pd engine.
Usually every bolt that is needed is in the kit.
The cam pulley has 3 13mm bolts the allow the pulley movement but the cam needs to be pinned up in timing first.
The tensioner usually has a 15mm nut that is about 20nm + 1/4 but of I remember correctly its printed on the cambelt top cover.
The crank bolts are 4 6mm Allen key bolts that went to 4 10mm spline bolts on later engines.
If all the Mark's line up before you loosen any bolts and even after completion of the belt then it's fine.
VW recommend two full engine rotations on the engine after renewing a belt to recheck timing.
Also the kits usually come with a threaded pin for the tensioner but I'd leave that alone unless its obviously damaged or faults as these have been know to strip the threads from the cylinder head.
But like I said if you are not 100% then don't take the chance for the sake of a few hundred pounds.

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Discussion Starter #38
That's pretty much what I watched in the video, but I'll watch a couple more

And if your offer still stands "I'll here if you need guidance" - it's not so much about saving money it's more to do with getting to know my precious T5 - I don't know if it's bad form, but I don't mind undertaking the work my self, but paying for expert guidance and any time helping me

Hope this hasn't offended anyone
 

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I'm a strong believer in if you don't try you wont learn.
But then again don't push yourself even and exceed your limitations either.
I've always thought as the engine as the heart of the vehicle so break that you break it all.
I'd change both belt and pump for piece of mind so you know it's done.
But maybe get some assistance from someone who knows what they are doing.
It might not cure the fault but it's a cause of elimination

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Discussion Starter #40
" if your offer still stands "I'll here if you need guidance" - it's not so much about saving money it's more to do with getting to know my precious T5 - I don't know if it's bad form, but I don't mind undertaking the work my self, but paying for expert guidance and any time helping me"

Would you be interested in helping me - as someone that knows what they are doing
 
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