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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Passenger door started to play up and locking would be hit and miss. When it did lock the deadlock did not work. Meant to get on and fix it then couple of weeks ago it deadlocked and would not open. Spent a couple of weeks on the forums getting advice and ordered a new lock but new it was haste getting the lock out with the deadlock jammed. Decided to tackle it today after usual electrical checks showed no issue. When locking or unlocking the door lock was silent as if no power. Sat in the passenger seat and pulled the internal Handel and held it open and pressed the remote and the lock made a little noise. Released the handle and hit the remote and no noise again. Opened the internal handle and pressed the remote maybe 30 times and could hear some movement and then bingo the deadlock activated. Ran around the van a few times to celebrate and will change out the lock tomorrow. Leave it unlocked until then. My advice is try the same.. don't give up..
 

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Must be in the air!!
I fitted a new passenger door lock today as mine was hit and miss.
Got one from eBay for £17.90.
Only took a hour. While the door card was off I inserted a blue led light next to the door button and ran a wire to the drivers led light which i changed to a blue one a couple of years ago.
Good day all n all!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I could not access the hole in the door, in line with the handle on the passenger side, as California's have rhs sliding door which
Makes matters worse. If it starts playing up change it fast is my advice..
 

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I looked everywhere for a way to open the passenger door once jammed / deadlocked, and could not find anything useful anywhere. So, once I fixed it, I'd like to share the solution I found so that others can benefit. There are quite a few youtube videos covering unlocking or opening the passenger door on vw cars, but none applied in this case.

Problem: passenger door was acting weird, at times wouldn't unlock from the remote, until one day it was completely jammed. It could not be unlocked or opened from the inside or outside handle, the knob was stuck. Pulling it up with strong pliers, would only result in moving it slightly before it jumped back.

Note: it helps to have the replacement part in hand to be able to see how it is oriented and what to push/pull.

Steps taken (and failed):
- play with the remote countless times. The door wouldn't make any sound (doorlock engine was not activating)
- pulled/pushed/hit/tapped the door while pulling the inside handle, after a proper bath in WD40 around the latch through the gap after opening the sliding door
- completely removed the door handle from the door to get to the cable
- removed the top 2 screws behind the inner handle and the center screw of the inner door card, to reach out to the inside cable. Cable was pulled, the mechanism would move (could be seen through the knob whole) but the door wouldn't open
- removed the door pin (the long twisted metal wire) and tried to pull up the plastic clip with a large screwdriver. It would move up, and revert to initial position once pressure was removed. In the top position, with pressure applied, the door would still not unlock by pulling the cable(two people were needed)

At this point, two solutions were left:
-cut a piece of the metal door with a certain result and a costly replacement
-cut the plastic doorcard, with the doubt that we may still not have access to the lock, but it would be less costly to replace

Picked #2. But didn't cut the doorcard. The only screws holding it were the bottom 3, which are inaccessible with the door closed. To make room, I had to pull out the plastic doorstep (obviously, after removing the passenger bench first). This resulted in 3 of 5 plastic fasteners broken. Once the plastic door card was open, the metal one almost came out quickly (after taking down the dashboard end, 2 bottom plastic covers, removed the window glass and broke one plastic spacer/holder on the inside). At this point, the metal doorcard would still be attached to the door by the electric harness.

With everything on the door removed but the door lock, you would think everything went smooth. Well, not really. The space there is limited and no matter how hard or well I pushed/pull all the moving parts, it wouldn't open. While you can see 3 of the 6 star headed screws holding the lock cover in place, you would probably be able to access only the top one.

The only way I thought to open it up was to melt it. I took a small (lighter sized) blowtorch and heated up the small screws one by one, while pushing them away through the melted plastic. Caution! It's hot, may catch fire, toxic fumes (etc).
Only 5 of the 6 were out (last one - out of reach for the torch). I was able to pry open the cover, extract the electric motor, and a long rod with cogs from right behind it.

At this point, the lock was released and the door opened by pulling the lever normally operated by the inside handle.

Succes! The door is open. The replacement process of the latch can be found elsewhere. It's 2 screws away, and a quarter of the car to rebuild.

I pity thee who get into such trouble.
Best of luck!
 

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Had the same issue on my passenger door and couldn`t get it open to fill the fuel tank up :confused:
Ended up slapping the door above and below the handle while clicking the remote and eventually it unlocked T:


Sometimes a bit of brute force does work and no damgaed panels or mechanism.
The thumping must have jolted the mechanism into working.
Need less to say the door stayed unlocked until the repalcement arrived from Ebay.



Worth a try for anyone in the same trouble.
 

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Hi

I'm currently have this problem. Passenger door has been slowly getting worse. Went to refuel today and could not open at all. Had to keep locking/unlocking with the fob and eventually it opened!

Seems to be a common problem, with many saying that the issue is an electrical one, where a connection under the passenger seat to the comfort module gets corrosion in it. The other fix seems to be a replacement lock.

I'll take a guess that mine is the lock at fault as I can hear the mechanism move when I press the fob.
 

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Passenger door started to play up and locking would be hit and miss. When it did lock the deadlock did not work. Meant to get on and fix it then couple of weeks ago it deadlocked and would not open. Spent a couple of weeks on the forums getting advice and ordered a new lock but new it was haste getting the lock out with the deadlock jammed. Decided to tackle it today after usual electrical checks showed no issue. When locking or unlocking the door lock was silent as if no power. Sat in the passenger seat and pulled the internal Handel and held it open and pressed the remote and the lock made a little noise. Released the handle and hit the remote and no noise again. Opened the internal handle and pressed the remote maybe 30 times and could hear some movement and then bingo the deadlock activated. Ran around the van a few times to celebrate and will change out the lock tomorrow. Leave it unlocked until then. My advice is try the same.. don't give up..
I cut out the shelf in the door too access the metal plate after breaking half the door card out,struggled like mad to undo most of the bolts then had the idea to make a small hole in the white locking housing and pumped in WD 4o, could have been coincidence,but tried fob 1 last time and it worked,hope this helps some one
 
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