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332 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello all!!

I'm a noobie T5 owner! I purchased my beaut 2 weeks ago, she needs some TLC, but already in the last 2 weeks i've been ripping her apart and starting from nout to turn her into a camper.

Shes a 2.5 /130, Already shes suffered the ever so common 'missing gears' - rather red faced when i had no reverse, 1st and 3rd... lol!! Following the guides on here, resolved, use a cable tie to clip the gear leaver cable back into the holder. Silly VW design, lol I looked rather silly blocking the road for 10 minutes while i cracked out a cable tie, hahahah Gotta love these little bugs! :DT:


332 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Here is my transformation story!
- she was a right mess inside and out to be honest.

- Step 2 (step 1 being purchasing the van)

- wallow in the mercy of the DUB god that the previous evil sprit (aka owner) hasn't left any nasty supprises behind the gunked on ... - STUFF ---

- Dodgy Seats - > As it turned out, when getting ready to remove these seats (the same seats used to cart his young children around in) i was ready to rock it out under the van to take of the bolts. I was a litte worried to discover they were finger tight and 2 were missing altogheter...

- Yes the van was divided in TWO halfs... i'm not going to ask...

2nd half appears to be his work half. - crud

Nice silicone - EVERYWHERE in this van! - CHECK out his speaker covers, yes they are polystirine bowls... (i can't spell)

Dodgy shelves. - my firewood

Well looked after door seals

HIS Carpeting job.... - OMG

Almost ripped back to bare metal

My misses rounding screw heads off ... i mean, helping :) A:

SKIP Boring hands and knees scrubbing action - to get it this clean i removed all seats, parts of dash and all flooring.

Ripping the old stuff out was great, cleaning the mess was alot of hard work, shame i don't have photos as to what hid under the floor, it was terrible.

71 Posts
rite then mate!
wots the plan now???????????????????????
havnt heard from u in a couple of weeks are we to begin now shes all clean inside??

Andys almost there with his now!! looks v nice! had his bumpers done now, he picked it up on fri!
they did a realy good job!

Im in the middle of fixing juss's car at mo! she put window down on monday and it never went up again!
cable got caught in the motor! so i had to jam the glass up with wood till i can get new one! doh!!!! but lent andy my multi spline bits, and he left them in his van at bodyshop so had to wait till fri to get the car in bits!!! garage cant order parts till monday if they still can get them! will find out tomorow!!!! :gl

probs give u call later anyways! T:

332 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
The next thing i did was put in some of the foil backed insulation bubble wrap stuff,

I got mine off ebay for £58 from ebay for 30msq, i'd say 30msq is just about enough if you do a really tidy multi layered job. everywhere had at least 2 covers, the majority had at least 3 layers, all super neat and cut really tight to get the maximum benifit. i've heard about people insulating in a day. it took me around 5 days to insulate everything perfectly. (well to the best of my ability) it's worth taking you time and doing a neat job, it will pay you back in the long term. you don't want to rush and be cold!

i've got a few pictures below, i haven't included some containing more detail, i was so in the swing of things i just wanted to crack on. but to explain how i did it.....

You can see some yellow insulation on this stage, in the end i did't use that there, i actaully done another layer of bubble wrap and then filled EVERY SINGLE gap with the plastic bottle insulation stuff, it's really termally good and helps avoid damp issues.

As heat rises up i put 4 layers neatly in the pannels.

On the large side pannel i done 3 layers of bubble wrap and then a thick layer of plastic inulation adn then another layer of the reflective stuff. Obviously to help kep cables safe and stuf i put in some ducting with pull wires.

Just make sure you don't make it to thick, otherwise you will either damage the outside of your van or loose to much space on the inside, every cm counts when converting! I even made some cubby holes out of the "spare" space including JUST cramming in a sub.

When i boarded it, i spent a week driving around with it like that, any vibrations i addressed with more screws to pull tighter / use some vrbration matting.

332 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Next i boarded and carpeted! :D This is the bit that you really must not rush, I used


WARNING This stuff is twice as thick as the standard super strech stuff. Personally i think it was worth it, price wise they are the same (roughtly) If you do go with Mega van mats i do advise that to start the sticking process you get help to start. once started you should be ok, just the weight of the fabric is enough over time to tire you into a mistake. Just getting 2 minutes help to start will save you so much time, stress and glue!

- The thicker (4mm) carpet is almost as workable as the thinner 1 -2mm stuff just needs ot be heated with a hair dryer!
- Carpet does burn, so be careful! I:
- cover anything you don't want glue on
- Cover the COUNTERSUNK screw holes with duct tape - stops the risk of the carpet catching when you are pulling it tight.
- Do the wheel arches sepperatley personally i found it easier to carpet them 1st.
- cover the completed arches before starting the rest of the carpeting, glue flys everywhere when the nossles get dirty
- spray the board and carpet, spray lightly all over rather than concentrate each bit
- Make sure you have EVERYTHING to hand, the glue drys quick
- Knife blades - you need lots, i used 8 and even then some more would have made bits easier. they blunt really quickly. Stanley blades are the worst on this carpet. so avoid.
- I started each side in the middle rear pannel, take you time to line everything up, get person number 2 to hold in place. GLUE GLUE GLUE and then check all edges can be covered,
- Don't waste carpet, 10meters x 2meters on a LWB is plenty but 1 or 2 mistakes will mean you will be super close to running out. I made no mistakes but had wastage, i have about 1msq left ( i have a lwb and carpeted past the drivers seat and big cubby holes with average wastage.)

- Feel free to message me for any advice, i am a noob too, but will help if i can. / have done it :) T:

Personally i find carpeting the whole van in 1 go looks better then doing it pannel by pannel.

MegaVanMats provide a really good guide, however some of the above goes against what they advise, it comes down to the look you want, the coverage and time. - don't rush ever, you will kick your self.

Heres some piccccss!

Big jump in pics, full concentration on attempt 1, didn't want to mess it up! :)

WARNING The glue doesn't stick to the plastic very well, i'm trying different things to get this perfect..

You can see this bit has ripples, it's where the glue is coming unstuck, working on a solution :) - THIS IS OPTIONAL Ionly did this far up because the plank before me drilled holes into the plastic making it look nasty.

More cubby holes :) - love em

NEXT STOP - Speak time, o right!.. Preview!! = Pioneer TS-E1702is (THE S IS IMPORTANT)

So nice!! 10/10 Reviews £150 a set.. i got 3 sets for £200!!! Bargin! Pioneer Car Audio Online

332 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
So far this is where i have put my speakers and how i have done it, these photos won't detail everything and show my amps, mainly because currently i've taken them all out bar 1 while i finish making a mess. I will at a later date show how i've managed to cram 3 big amps under the drivers seat.. it was tricky but perfectly safe and aired.

So here we go,

The 1st of myu speakers to go in was my sub. The reason for this was because i wanted to hear nothing at all, other than the sub. This was because i wanted to have no distractions of music to make sure the sub wasn't causing loads of rattle. I've managed to mout my FLI Sub here...

I installed it to test BEFORE i carpeted anything, this was so i could tighten up anything causing a rattle. I'm glad i did this because i had some rattle on the inital install. to work around this i cheated, to cover the van in the sound deading material was going to cost in excess of £200... i don't have a spare £200 to 'Help' combat rattle. so... i loosened the boards, rammed more insulation up there, as much as i could without going to mad. then tightened up the screws super tight, i used 4 x 50mm / 5 x 50mm screws to grab the metal work, depending on what part of the van i was screwing LOL: i used various sized screws, in total on 1 side i used in excess of 50 screws to hold the board super tight, each hole was countersunk and predrilled.

It took a little time but worth it, i ended with a sub that was giving me all the right sounds. Although i'm not a lover of Fly speakers or amps, it was a sub i've had for a while and was shallow enough that i could fit it in the skin of the van (JUST) You can't really have it sticking out more than i have, otherwise you might catch it on the R&R Bed when pulled out.


sub installed, all the wires and things i preinstalled before putting the wood pannels on. ever so carful not to drill the cable. personally i would cut out all the holes for speakers before screwing to the skin, it would be a pain to drill when installed.

Next, some 17cms - you can one of these in the above photo and...

Looking at the picture the left side was fine, the speakers have large magnets and coils, no problem. However... Like some others do, to maximize space behind the units (every cm counts remember!) i chopped the board short on the right side, made it end level at the ridge of the support. basicly after the wheel arch you can end it about 7 inches early and finish up on the body work. If you don't do this and plan to carpet like i have. (NOT Pannel by pannel method) try and get a smooth finish.

- it's hard to explain so if you want more details on this part, please message me, i will send photo's and mounting instructions to get a perfectly smooooooth finish.

Also by using my method, you claw back about 1" - 2.5cm - > 3.5 cm, you also get a nicer finish onto the window behind the drivers seat. 2 - 4Cms might not seem alot, but it really really REAALLLLY is, anyone with a conversion done will say the same, makes everything work so much easier later or. Any way, it meant the speaker to the right of the photo needed to be brought out by about 10mm to allow it to fit. look at the photo, you can just about make it out, i just cut out a ring, covered it in carpet, no one who's seen my van in person has ever noticed :) i gained more space for this amendment :) (Or get shallow fit speakers and avoid this situation)

FYI BASS on these speakers is amazing, honestly, i don't think i need a sub, really impressed with these units, great clarity and power handling, bass response is the best i've ever had.. (and i like my sound systems) Money wise, £1000 says you can't do better for the dollar..


- don't do what i did, take out the old std speakers, think o look, what a perfect fit my new speakers are... fit as direct replacement, put it all together, put the windows down... doh! the magnets are too big they jam the window half way down... lol!! o balls.

i am yet to cut out a ring / or 2, to move the speakers further forward like the std mount does... my bad..


Another set of pioneers to be installed, also a set of infinity's 6x9 i had spare, a genius idea for NON amping while camping (saves juice but provides tunes on head unit internal amp)

i will take more pics of these once i have completed the install, no one i've found has attempted to do what i've almost finished, :) time consuming yes, tollerance for mistake, about 2mm...

Stay tuned folkes...

332 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Barn door windows

Hello all

this stage is showing how myself and BlueT5Man installed the barn door windows i ordered from http://www.kiravans.co.uk/ I am under a budget, bills to pay and all that, so i looked at the 'Slight seconds' The slight seconds are far cheaper than the perfect ones. The windows i received from http://www.kiravans.co.uk/ Slight seconds @ £75 were a bargin, when they arrived i was nervous about how bad the slight seconds would be. However with me and my mates at work all looking at them no one could see what the fuss was about. After holding up to a light and getting really really picky i could see what the damage was. the windows just had a few scuffs on them around teh edges of each window. Anyone who has perfect windows in stock is looking for about £150+ ... if i was you, save your money and get seconds. really you will never notice.

I got the fitting kit from http://www.kiravans.co.uk/ also, all in all with delivery it came to £125.00 - bargin!

So this is how me and BlueT5Man got on...

Pilot hole... nervous...

4 pilot holes 10mm start drilling from the inside 10mm before the inner rim, DONT USE FORCE, you will damage the metal, might snag or dent..

using caution i cut out the pannel wayyyy to small, but it's hard when if you mess it up... big problems...

Be careful you don't snap your blades by being a wimp about it, use a fine tooth metal jigsaw, if you prance around like we did, you will snap blades, and need to run to BNQ to get more more, LOL:

the 2nd window we stopped farting around BlueT5Man went to town on teh door, following the inner frame as a guide, this worked so much better, 1 cut made it so much easier. no damaged blades.


File down and tidy up, carful not to damage the body work that will be seen

Prep using the guide provided (some differ)

and stick, we heated the glue tubes on teh hob as it was like pumping dried concrete though a siv...

result. =

- note *strange man not included in most kits....

I left mine perfectly still for about 15 hours even though most say drive away after a hour... i wouldn't if you could help it, just not worth rushing, as the night time temp drops i'd do it in a garage like i have. Lucky for me, my garage is surrounded by house so stays nice and warm too :)


332 Posts
Discussion Starter #14

Hello Folks,


If you are like me and want to try and shave a few quid here and now, plus have the fun to doing everything your self... i didn't purchase a precut system of flooring. I created a template myself and from that template i created my floor.

To do this i wanted a 10x 5ft sheet of 12mm ply. however this isn't a stock item and had to get it ordered in from jewsons. However, i wasn't there for the delivery and what i actually got was a 10 x 4ft sheet! grr JEWONS YOU ***** Any way, i had a good think about the impact and worked out that it's not so bad, 10ft covers the whole floor area top to bottom of my LWB. I confirmed with Blue T5 Man that the units would sit on the join, he agreed. So, as long as i made no mistakes the width of the board, including trimming it would not cause any joins on any walkable areas (although if joined really really well, this makes no difference) but as i had the choice, i choose to cover all walkable areas in a single sheet.

TO make my template i grabbed some strong boxes from work. i layed these out and scribed to the contores of the van. I did this accross the whole area, although a mess, it was TIGHT. don't forget, many parts of the floor area actually WIDEN as you go up, so... if your using 4mm card, but will end up with 8mm of insulation + 12mm ply you could end up having a nasty gap around all the edges... not good. I did my template with this in mind. i made sure it was super tight. i stuck the whole thing together to keep it tight.

I then drew this on to my ply sheet. i followed the template but added a few extra MM around the whole thing, 1 way to make this easy is to line up the templates deepest point 4 mm from the edge of the wood.. (no more) Then grab the fattest Pen you can find, i used a white board marker that i've used for other shizzle. I then drew around the whole template. when cutting out i kept to the far edge of the line, making the emplate about 4mm - 5mm wider all over. Obviously some sections don't get wider as you go up, some get more narrow, but you can make it smaller but what a pain if you mis cut by a few mm. I took ages over the floor, quite simply because it's the major thing that will get the most abuse, and everything will mount to. doing this poorly will always leave a poor overall result. I spent a week of evenings, just a few hours or sometimes just 30 minutes, going over the template, checking, double checking, i then started cutting, i made it to big as i wanted, and chopped out every bit that fowl's

i admit, i'm in no hurry, i wanted a spanking job, i continued to take the wood in and out until i was confident of a tight fit including insulation. I then copped out the other side from a 8x4 sheet. means i needed 2 joints, but both under cabs.. :D

I done the same on the other side, and then over lapped the massive boards and drew a line on the 2nd board. again i wanted a really tight fit, so... i used a thick pen again, this time 1 with a 2 - 3 mm nib, cut down it and fitted. my fit was sooo tight i needed to hammer the edges into place (with chock block as not to damage) the boards popped in. Problem, how to get them out to cut the floor!!! :-O

(i did it,,, eventually.. who needs screws!LOL:

this is how i looked

Not sure why this one looks all funny... bad light, bad flash

oo don't forget a double layer of

Because i wanted to make sure i didn't mess up the actual flooring, otherwise it would be pointless having a nice bit of wood, i took the lot out, safe in the knowing my floor fits perfectly all the way around, made cutting the floor a sinch! i used


Altro / Marley Type Safety Flooring Vinyl - LWB Van -


I got the black version £75 including delivery, this is the 2nd megavanmats purchased i've made. The floor seems good for the money, it's quite thick and has a good finish. it seems tough enough, Perfect services from these guys, cannot fault them,

I only wish they done a bundle that included the adhesive, anyway, good product, ordered 2pm wednesday delivered 10am Thursday... Great service from these guys

A good tip on screwing down your floor just before fitting the flooring is to ONLY scew into the raised bits of the flooring. It's important not to use long screws or scew in the wrong place. the raised bumps give you another 8mm of clear space. I marked them out with hand cream!!! yes! only thing that was clearly show and be easy to spot.

I dabbed little spikes on the centre of the small ridges and das it ends of long runs of ridges. I then put the board in and pressed down. I took the floor back out and drilled 1mm holes through the centre of the splodges, this reverse drilling left a dot to dot game on the other side. I then joined up the dots.

so when i install it i can drill by self tapping 25mm screws right through the lines :)


332 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Flooring time!

After much prep i was dreading messing this bit up.

I did manage it without incident :D i took my time and removed the whole wooden template to draw around the black flooring. i used a silver pen as nothing else really showed. I cut it out cutting to the widest line, so included the pen in the final finish. this gave me a few mm tollerance all the way around. This is important as the van widens the further up to the centre you go.

When screwing the floor down, if you used my previous method this takes minutes (and as long as u've not save 50p on rubbish quality self tappers.

you will find that any join you have needs to be smoothed over. screw everything down tight then fill all the counter sunk screw holes with std wood fillter. of you have any other gaps with the joins, i recommend you fill those to. Now in current conditions i found my filler took an age to dry! it was only 5deg when i filled my scew heads and i skimmed over the joints, took hours and hours! it took so long i sanded it and it was hardly dry enough, but i managed.

Here is the result!!

Those pesky cables you can see for the speakers have been moved as they annoyed me :) i have put them through the celing now :)

332 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
You can see that oversizing the flooring worked, i now have a very neat small lip all the way around, so if i spill something it won't soak up into the carpeting :D


332 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Rear doors DIY Spray job

Hi All again!

when i got my van the rear doors were in real bad shape, i think the person before must have carried pipe or something, the rear doors combined had around 50 circular dents and 1 massive smack

Although i know this isn't the correct method, it worked,

to get the deep dent out of the barn door in the lower corner, i managed to get a vice arm in there and crank it up, after some sweating it popped right out! :D the remaining dents i sanded back to bare metal and filled using quick steal, it's basicly taking the form of liquid metal until you had a hardner, of all places Halfords did the best deal, a big tin for £7.99! :D

I filled the dents and then (after reading recommendations on here) purchased the halfords red primer and tornado red paint, although the lid looks brown, it was a perfect match!

here is the result of weeks of prep

- NOTE: Spraying in winter sucks! had to leave it dry for a week before sanding between coats, it was touch dry quick, but you couldn't work the paint, it just rubbed off... thats more to do with air temps, i do recommend you doing all spraying in a garage or something, it gets everywhere even without the wind!

and these are just for funzies!

re routed speaker cable (so glad i left pull strings in!!)


332 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
O and before anyone notices, yes i'm aware the inside frame has some weird gunk left on it, thats the orignal paint with gunk on it.

i'm going to purchased frames for all windows :) so going to need ot reglue :)

i will give anyone a free.... prize if they can tell me where the orignal factory paint is and what i've sprayed ;)

- T5MAN Is excluded from this comp as he saw me spraying it! :DA:*<:)>

332 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Thanks Man,
Yea come back to it, feel free to message me or post on here if you want more info on anything, i will try and assist :ILU:
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