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T4 power window problem

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T
The Viking
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Discussion Starter • #1 1 h ago
Hi all, hope ur all keeping safe and doin well during this lockdown..
Pleas help... I have a problem with my 2001 T4 2.5tdi ACV power windows.......drivers side stays closed and wont open and the passenger side is stuck in the fully open position an wont close.... I dont know if it helps at all but a couple of days earlier the drivers side window appeared/seemed tight when opening and closing.
Ive tried to do a little research ( apparently no window fuses) but cant seem to find much.
As im my 75yr old mums carer, i rely on the van and cant afford financially and more importantly timewise to have it in a garage for any length of time..( its not long, about a month ago, come out of a garage after being in for over 6 weeks with welding on chassis, wheel bearing, offside rear light cluster not working,,, (horn not working and airbag light on, said he couldnt get steering wheel off to fix altho he got 2 x t4 of his own and always doin bits on them.)???
Cost me just over £1600 so PLEASE HELP as this van is turning out to be a nightmare.
Thank you everyone in advance to your much appreciated help.
Regards
 

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UPDATE...
With further inspection ( dont know why i didnt check in first place), the passenger side front window, raise and lowers on the passenger side button ONLY....
From the drivers side control buttons.. it only LOWERS the passenger side window, It does NOT RAISE IT...... and the drivers side control buttons does not RAISE or LOWER the drivers side window.
Any advice would be very much appreciated.
Thanks
 

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ANOTHER UPDATE..
I have also just discovered that along with the above symptoms..... if i pull or push BOTH driver side window controls/rockers at the same time...the passenger side still slides down ONLY, whether i PUSH or PULL the controls (at the same time)..
Apologies for the continual updates... im just trying to grab a few minutes here and there on it..
ANY IDEA'S PLEASE????
Could it be the control switch? Bad connections?? Etc etc..
Thanks again.
 

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Hi. Thanks for your quick reply.... no i havent checked the bellows yet and just googled it... it looks a right nightmare of a job, but if its a notorius problem with the T4's i'll have to have a looksie at it in the nxt couple of days as Im getting desperate now.... is there anyway of looking at something less intrusive first?? i.e. checking relays etc?? Soz if Im being ignorant as elektrikery is not my forte whatsoever.....and no doubt if there were other checks first you wouldve mentioned them..
Do YOU, or ANYONE ELSE know what size/ gauge/colour/rating, wires i need to purchase to repair?? Its always handy to have a few reels lying around anyway.
Thanks once again for really quick reply and the heads-up.
 

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Hi, you only need 0.5 or .75mm wire, and as for colour, I wouldn't worry. (You'd have trouble sourcing all the different ones as some have stripes on!)
The way to do it is to "add" a section about 2" long into ALL the broken/frayed ones, with ANY colour.
That way, you can still see what colour went in and came out of the repair.
I'm afraid the only "sensible" way is to solder a section in and heatshrink sleeve the joints (JUST the solder joint, not the whole cable, a sit needs to flex)
That's the reason crimps won't work....takes up too much space and don't flex.

You'll probably find 1 or 2 broken ones, and half a dozen "frayed" ones.
If VW had spent an extra few pence and made the loom longer, it wouldn't have happened!

I'm 99% sure that is your problem.
 

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Thats AWESOME buddy... how dull am I eh, the 2 inch section is a great idea, saves ££££'s aswell.
Just ordered a few metres of 0.75, hearshrink and soldering iron..... soon as they arrive Im gona have a bash..
I'll let you know how I get on.
Thanks again. 👍👍👍👍👍
 

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Practice with the soldering iron on some spare wire.
The trick is to apply the iron to the wire and THEN use the solder.
Many people do it the other way around, and you end up burning the flux off that is supposed to "bond/clean" the joint on the tip of the iron.
You really need 3 hands to do it correctly, but with practice, you can hold one end of the wire, and the solder, in one hand, and use the other for the iron.....just hope the other wire stays where it's supposed to be..LOL
When i was younger (and eyesight worked!), I could hold a "micro" 5 pin plug in one hand, and the 5 wires I had to solder to it, and the real of solder on the bench
These days....I have trouble seeing the bench..LOL

Like I say, have a few practice runs on spare cable before doing the loom....you should get a "nice, round" solder joint...not one with whiskers of dull grey colour.

OH...and remember to put the heatshrink over the wire BEFORE soldering the joint (Not that I ever forgot that bit..HAHA)
You can hold the soldering iron CLOSE to the heatshrink to melt it...but try not to touch it.
 

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Excellent tips... thank you very much.. 👍👍👍...
I can build you a wall, re-roof your house, plaster the walls, plumb the house....BUT when it comes to intricate, technical electrickery Im screwed, so every little helps...
Just ordered a multimeter aswell ( need to google how to use it tho...LOL)...
Theres a very small part of me thats excited to give this a go now... Cant wait for the gear to arrive...
Next on the agenda is the horn not parpping and Airbag/seatbelt light wont extinguish... had it reset twice (once by garage, once by a mate of a mate) but it came straight back on. GRRRR.
Another story anyway, so one job at a time.
Thanks ever so much once again for your help and advice.
GREAT FORUM AND GREAT PEOPLE.👍👍👍👍
 

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Re: Horn...
Could be the contacts in/behind the wheel, but horn is a simple slip ring type contact.
Airbag could be as simple as undoing the (yellow?) connector, using contact cleaner spray (NOT WD40!!) and connecting back together.
Unless the bag goes off, there is very little current passed down the wire/connector....just a "pulse" to let the ECU know it is there.

Other common horn problem is due to where it is placed...under the wheel arch, covered in crud!
You should have a 12v supply to one side of the horn, the other contact is then taken to "earth" when you press the button.
Very common for the contact at the horn to be corroded.
Unless you have twin horns, there is no relay involved.

For the airbag, do you have single or twin?
Passenger side can also suffer from simply being a bad connection.

IF there is a problem with either bag, you can get around the light problem (for MOT) by inserting a 2.2 Ohm 1/4W resistor into the connector going to either, to "replace" the airbag.
Will fix the light, but NOT the arbag!!!!!
There is NO sensor for the seatbelts....it's just a common symbol showing the belt on the dash.

BTW, I can also do the jobs you list..apart from plastering...every time I attempt it, I get an almost perfect "rough artex" finish...LOL...one thing I NEVER mastered!
Everyone to there own ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Once again some great info, thanks.
Ive been doing a few bits and pieces research etc but for sum reason time constraints is stopping me from being able to do thorough time consuming research so your help and anothers has been invaluable..
I have twin airbags, so ill check out both of them.. didnt realize seatbelt didnt have a warning light.. DOH! What a numpty.
I checked horn contacts and wiring under wheel arch as far back as i could see and looks ok.
Ive had an itermittent horn problem more or less since a mate of a mate put a cruise control arm in a few yrs ago, and now its given up altogether so it is probably the thin copper washer you mentioned. Airbag is recentish, about 4 months ago, so now windows have packed in aswell im gona tackle all at same time. (Wrong attitude but ive always been a procrastinator and the job always ends up 10 times worse. GRRRR) I need to buck up my ideas.
Still waiting on the 0.75mm, 0.5mm and soldering iron..... not long now.. with regards to your building skills sounds like you enjoy learning and more importatntly.... saving money..... plasterings just like everything else. Practice.. if u did it regularly youd pick it up in no time... with newer and newer products, good flat surface etc its a lot easier now than it was 10years ago..
Thanks again fella.. i'll keep uposted as to how i get on when the gear arrives and i can squeeze a day in. 👍👍👍👍
 
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