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187 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi Everyone.

We picked "Toby" up after my old crappy Mk5 Fiesta broke down on the A34 in September 2013. I wasn't planning on getting a T4 until the new year but we ended up getting it a little earlier due to the death of "Fillis". Not the best idea because I needed transport quickly and rushed the purchase a little (I bought the first van I looked at, haha).

My technical ability is very limited but I learn quickly. When I picked it up, I'd done a couple of oil changes and changed a few wheels but nothing more. I'd never driven a diesel and had only been in a panel van once (the previous week when the seller took us out for a spin).

Toby's a 2000-plate, 2.4d with a tailgate, electrics and 118k miles under its belt and some Audi A3 alloys in need of a refurb. I didn't have a clue what I was looking at when I went to view it. I had a poke around and after 20 minutes I was pretty confident that it was, in fact, a van.

After a bit more looking, I found that there was some rust on the roof, a little around the screen and around the tailgate glass. There's a few spots here and there but no rot that I could see. Everything looked solid underneath and it started fine. My top tip at this stage is to do exactly the opposite of what I did and take someone with T4 knowledge to help check it out.

This is it the day we went to pick it up:

In terms of plans, my OH (Madeleine) and I are both skydivers and we spend nearly every friday/saturday night between January and November camped outside various hangars across the UK/europe. We basically want to build a bedroom on wheels so we can take some luxury with us at the weekends. The ultimate goal is warmth (insulation, propex), entertainment (speakers, TV, battery) and comfort (big wide bed).

On the day I picked it up, I spent a little while in the driver's seat making sure I knew where everything was. I fired it up and carefully pulled out of the drive and took it down the end of the seller's cul-de-sac to get used to it. At the end of the road, I pulled up into someone's driveway (who happened to be standing there watering his plants), reached down to the gear stick and realised that I didn't know how to get it into reverse. My lack of knowledge, combined with some completely shagged gear linkage bushes, meant that I spent about 10 minutes slowly nudging up this guy's drive, getting closer and closer to his front wall and more and more desperate to reverse back out into the road. LOL:

On getting out of the seller's road, I made it to the first T junction (a right-turn) and realised that I couldn't see a thing out of the left window and, due to the car rammed up my preventing a cheeky reverse, meant I had to sheepishly edge out into the road hoping nothing wiped me out. For anyone reading this who's never driven a van before, turn left a bit before you turn right so you can see where the hell you're going T:.

So, eventually, I made it home.

A lot has happened since then and I've been meaning to start this thread for months. It's mainly for my own amusement/records but hopefully someone will find it useful one day.

I'll try and get it up to speed over the next week or so.


187 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
It was definitely in need of TLC when I started working on it. (I forgot to take pictures initially because I got carried away with stripping it out.)

It had a half-height metal bulkhead with a wooden bit bolted on to make it full height (with some massive plastic speakers bolted through it on the cab side and the speaker cables all over the place).

The back had 9mm ply lining, painted black with a paintbrush and attached with tons of rivets. Various bits of the bodywork had been rattle-canned red by the previous owner (he said he had a bit of a "shmoke" and decided to touch it up a bit, haha T:). There was a splintered old ply floor, screwed through the floor pan far too many times and an old offcut of brown carpet.

It took me 3 evenings to strip out all of the old ply, leaving various holes and rivets in the bodywork. Another couple of evenings to dremel out the rivets (what a great job that was) left me with this:

Luckily, I didn't find any serious rust or rot. Just lots of surface rust and screw holes which needed sorting.

I gave it clean out (with a dust mask and goggles - stuff was flying everywhere), sanded down the rust spots and got the Kurust on them, followed by a tin of Red Oxide Primer.

At this stage, I was making some progress and absolutely loving the van. I drove home from work in the sun, windows down, thinking that life was great. One rain shower later and the electric windows went haywire and all power to them was lost. Great.

After some reading on here, I pulled out the cab-to-door loom and found this:

An obvious bodge by one of the previous owners that was weather sealed with a strepsils packet and an old split door bellow.

I'd never used a soldering iron before so, lots of reading ensued and, after finding a useful thread on here and swearing a few times, I ended up with this:

I don't want to bore anyone with insulation pictures but here's a few for good measure. There's a good shot of the previous owner's ganja-inspired artwork and one of my OH lending a hand (doing the work).

At this point, it was still good weather so we were jumping every weekend. This was our first night in Toby:

This rusty old panel van was a massive step up in comfort level from our usual tent or the human-dna infested "bunk house" at the dropzone.

However, it didn't take long for me to learn a great lesson on condensation as, at about 5am, I woke up to an internal downpour of condensation dripping off of the roof. Madeleine loved the fact that it all hit me and completely missed her.

A pair of wind deflectors helped but we still got rained on a bit for the next few weeks.

The clouds came over during a day of jumping so I gave the bodywork a clean. This is when I started really finding all the rust spots that I didn't see before. The wheel arches must of had a quick blow over to hide the rust as it started showing through as soon as I cleaned it. Oh well, I'm going to repaint it all anyway.

Lastly, after a ton of reading on here about fuel pumps and mix ratios, I lumped up some courage and filled up with 50% veg oil. Woohoo. I love putting 40l of veg oil on the conveyer belt at the super market and making up stories of just "loving" chips when people ask about it.

I think that's it for now because I've run out of photos on my laptop. I'll start pulling them off my phone and will carry on later!

187 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I spent a lot of time reading threads on here before buying the van but I didn't think I'd need every single "how to" thread within a month of owning it.

It feels like I've fixed every single possible problem a T4 can encounter. When I first started, I enjoyed fixing the little problems but, after more and more things broke or were found to be broken, I got a bit fed up with it.

One bonus though was that, while I had the door cards off to fix the door loom, I found solenoids for factory central locking which I didn't know the van had. Neither of the solenoids were doing anything so I pulled them out and took them apart. Both motors were fubared so I replaced them and soldered a few connections.

The squeaky throttle pedal was doing my nut in so I fitted a re-enforcement bracket next. Made a massive difference...

It was about this time that I noticed the juddering on take off which, after reading on here, I assumed to be the DMF starting to go. Great. I planned to leave this for at least a few months while I cracked on with other stuff. It must of been a coincidence but I only started noticing it after fitting the pedal bracket.

The tailgate lock wasn't opening from either side so I had that apart and got it fixed.

Next, the door lock on the front N/S had snapped in two so I ordered a new lock from ebay. The van already had 3 different keys to open various doors so I looked into how to retumble them. After finding out VW charge ~£80 for a set of tumblers, I found a set on ebay for about 30 quid and got all the locks tumbled to the same key as the ignition.

At this stage, it was getting dark in the evenings and my progress slowed down. So, around November time I took a week off and set off to my Dad's place to borrow his driveway and garage.

The plan was to get all the odd jobs finished, finish the insulation, carpet it all and fit a roof lining. With these vans though, there's no point trying to hit a deadline because everything always takes 10x longer than you can ever imagine.

Here's the van at my Dad's ready for work to start. Couldn't of picked a better week for the weather! :)


187 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Now, the alternator clutch pulley saga...

One of the main things I wanted to fix while I was at my dad's was the racket coming from the aux belt at idle. It went away when when I started driving but, at neutral, it slapped around all over the place. When I took the belly pan off, I could see the belt slapping between the two lower pulleys.

Here's the noise it was making: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C1MPygAJD98&feature=youtu.be

I did a ton of reading and the general consensus was that it could be caused by the alternator clutch pulley having seized. With my limited knowledge, this made sense. I found a good deal on a clutch pulley from INA and the £15 tool that you need to get it off and thought nothing more of it.

The first day of my week off didn't go so well. I got the belly pan off, put the radiator into service mode and was feeling pretty pleased with myself.

I then spent an entire morning trying to get the alternator off. I was confident that I'd got all of the bolts out but the thing wasn't budging. I nearly gave up before a few "taps" with a hammer and chisel finally got it out of the bushes.

It was this stage that, after getting it onto the bench, I realised the clutch pulley I'd bought was for a T5 and that T4's don't have clutch pulleys.

So I walked around swearing for a bit and then refitted the alternator as it started to rain.

Oh well, at least I could put on the new aux serpentine belt I'd bought? Oh no, it was too tight and I couldn't work out how to release the tension enough to get it on so, on goes the old stretched one.

Not the best first day I have to say!

187 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Day 2, the "fuel pump saga".

So, after a rubbish first day that consisted completely of taking things apart and putting them back together again, I started fresh.

First thing on the agenda was the simple task of replacing the throttle cable as mine felt like dragging a set of christmas tree lights through a pin hole every time I put my foot down.

This took about an hour and I was pretty damn happy with the results. It felt SO much smoother.

I fired it up to take it out for a spin and I got the fuel warning light bang in the face. I ran around to the front and was greeted with a fast stream of diesel (and veg oil :D) running down the drive from the bonnet.

I'd heard that the fuel pump seal can go if you're not careful but, knowing this, I was extremely gentle on the throttle level. I was not happy about this at all. Luckily, my Dad had taken the day after off of work to help me with the carpeting so I had a means to get around town if needs be.

I spent the evening reading the awesome how to guide on here and felt confident that I'd be able to fix it myself. Luckily, a diesel specialist around the corner had the bushes, o-rings and gasket that I'd need and we went to pick up the parts in the morning.

On the way out of the shop, we'd been blocked in the car park by a delivery van so we spent half an hour trying to find the owner to let us out. I thought this was pretty funny as it highlighted why these projects take so long. To solve the throttle cable problem, you end up breaking the fuel pump seal. In order to solve that problem you need to buy parts from the diesel specialist but in order to solve that you first have to solve the car park problem to find a way home. Will it ever stop?

So, home with parts in hand.

Now, step 1 of the fuel pump repair: a small nut holding the throttle level on to the spindle. Oh, it's rounded off and we spend the entire morning trying every single tool we have to try and get it free. Nothing. Thwarted at the first hurdle by a 14mm nut.

In the end, we found a drill-bit attachment that fitted that got a good grip on the nut (much better than various star sockets we'd tried) but we had nothing to use to get leverage on it.

After more swearing and a trip to town to chat to a local tool place, we ended up with this tree of socket adapters:

And boom, it was free.

Now, it's late afternoon and we're on to the second step...

Luckily, the rest was pretty easy and, with more swearing, we got it all apart and back together before dark.


187 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Day 3.

We woke up and tried to start the van and, predictably, it wouldn't turn over.

One last trip to town to buy a couple of litres of diesel and a syphon pump and we got it fired up. This was a proper hallelujah moment for me as I'd never tackled anything like this before and it felt great to have it running (even it was was idling at like 2000RPM).

I fiddled around for a bit and it was all good. I went from hating the van to loving it again in one turn of the key.

Next was the bulkhead which I'd been dreading.

I spent 30 mins trying to drill out a single spotweld before learning that drill bits only cut if they turn clockwise. Hmm. I probably should of known that.

I then hammer and chiselled out the rest of it over a couple of hours.

A couple of tips here. Wear ear plugs as the chisel makes a racket in the enclosed space of the van. I didn't and my ears were ringing all night. Also, don't get to the end and get so excited about it that you inadvertently chisel through the B Pillar... I:

Removing the bulkhead made such a huge difference to the space in the back. I wasn't sure at the time but, looking back now, I'm so glad that I removed it.

I then spent the last part of the day painting the floor with black Hammerite. It was so cold that I used nearly half the tin painting the first 25% of the floor before realising it needed to be thinned down. The part with the thick coat took days to dry so a word of warning there...


187 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The cab door wiring was easy but a little fiddly. You take the door handle and door card off and disconnect everything on the door card side. Then, once you gain access to the fuse box and drop it out, you just need to locate the 3 connector blocks and feed them through the door bellows into the door.

Fixing the broken loom is a nice job to do but it does take some time.

Here's the awesome thread that I used http://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=208142 (thanks TetleyT4).

I'll hopefully have time to log some more updates tonight. It's nice having the "journey" in one place so I can look back on it in the future.

187 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Looking good mate, just whack it with the lowering stick ;)
Cheers. That's on the list but it's down at the bottom, unfortunately. It's like a monster truck at the moment but, apart from looking rubbish, it doesn't prevent us doing anything (like sleeping in a comfortable bed instead of roll mats :D)

I'm going to tackle the bodywork in a month or so. I'm thinking of going down the rustoleum route though as I can't justify the money for a respray. I like the idea of being able to touch it up over the years as well.

I might change my mind though once I've had a practice on my old bonnet...

187 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
OK, I'm supposed to be cleaning the flat ready to move to our new house on Friday but, instead, here's another instalment. Rasp:

This is the note on my bedroom door, courtesy of the OH. It's half tongue-in-cheek and half deadly serious.

Anyway, more pictures for this update as the last few were very text-heavy...

We bought the van for a reason and we've been using it every weekend, despite how far from finished it is.

I completely overdid the insulation when I first did it so I peeled back the foil and pulled out all the bits I'd stuffed into the cavities to aid airflow and help keep it free from the inevitable moisture.

Then, I nipped out to buy some ply and, on coming back to the van which I always park at the far side of the carpark on its own, I found this:

Mine's much cooler than the T5 (I'm not a girl you see LOL:) but it made my day to know that the owner had parked there deliberately.

Wickes didn't have any 3mm ply so my plans of spending the evening cutting it out in the garage were scuppered so I added a couple of layers of insulation to the roof.

I decided at this point, given that I only had a couple of days left before I was back at work, that I'd order some pre-cut ply from a trader to save time and give me a chance of getting it carpeted before going home. After all, I'd proudly promised Madeleine that it'd be a clean, carpeted box with a floor and roof lining.

So, ply kit ordered by next day delivery and off to bed I went. Unfortnately, it didn't turn up until 4pm and, when it did, it looked like this:

The courier had lent it up against the side of his van and it had taken a beating all day. Damn!

Part of the reason that I ordered it was because I didn't have any templates. I really wanted to use the MVM hidden fixing clips and knew that cutting them into fresh ply without templates would be almost impossible.

So, I was pretty dismayed to find out that my expensive pre-cut kit didn't come with fixing holes on the rear panels and behind-driver panel.

Top tip: If you're about to line your T4 and you've read loads of useful threads about using hidden clips on all of your panels then, like me (again), you've been reading the T5 section of the forum by mistake.

I spent ages peeling back the insulation looking for holes in the bodywork to fit clips into before realising that the T4 only has them on the tailgate and sliding door panels. You'll need to use self-tappers for everything else. (When you see how much the rear panels bend, you'll not want to mess around with clips anyway.)

I called it a week at this point and drove back home with a van that looked pretty much the same as it did a week before, minus a bulkhead and plus some black paint. I say again, don't give yourself a deadline or you'll only be disappointed with the slow progress!


187 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
When I got home, Madeleine laughed at my tales of woe and then, at the weekend, we got started carpet lining it.

The MVM carpet looks super cool around all the contours and shapes of the bodywork.

I cut the carpet over the front side panels to take the pressure off and make it easier to mould it. I'm going to fit side windows at some point and the plan is to tuck it all away neatly at the same time.

Next, we started lining the panels:

We found that using the spray glue lids to smooth it out really helped. (P.S. Check out the cat in this picture. I've only just noticed that!)

You find that, after doing a few, you find ways to save time and make it easier.

I mounted speakers into both rear panels and 3 rocker switches into the N/S one.

The original idea was to have 2 light circuits and a third switch to disable the door switches. I ended up changing my mind on this later though, as I found some nifty 3-way on/off/on switches on ebay.

Before putting the panels on, I spent a hell of a lot of time trying to think about what we want in terms of electrics. You very quickly get to a point where running cable for an extra light switch is more effort than it's worth so I didn't want to rush ahead.

I hadn't even considered electrics at this point so we put the fitting of the panels on hold and I ordered a 50m roll of 2mm thin wall cable and starting a long campaign of research. At this stage, I couldn't tell you why a light circuit negative went to an earthing point. I knew absolutely nothing.

187 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So, after mentally drowning in information about voltage drop, cable sizing, SPDT switches, soldering vs crimping etc, I had a plan.

I decided on 2 x light circuits in the rear: main lights and mood lights, both independently controlled by a 3-way switch for on, off, or on with the doors open. In order to keep the cable runs as short as possible with the switches in the rear, I took a positive feed from the existing light circuit to both sets of lights in the roof. From there, I took the negatives down the rear pillar and into the cavity that will sit behind the panel, into the switches and then out to the earthing point in the rear lights.

I also extended the door switch circuit to behind the panel in the same way.

The third switch will allow me to switch the stereo on from the back of the van and run it from the leisure battery (when I get it) so I ran 3 separate cables so they can be connected up later on without removing the panel.

Stereos have two positives. One permanently on and another used to switch it on/off.

Of the three cables I ran:

1) Will take a positive from the ignition switched live into the rocker switch
2) Will take a positive from the leisure battery into the rocker switch
3) Will take the positive (whichever one is switched on) back to the stereo.

(The stereo will then be permanently connected to the leisure battery which I don't need to worry about now.)

Finally, I ran speaker cables from the dash, under the cab mat, along the rear floor and up into the rear side panels (to keep it isolated from the power circuits).

I was surprised at how much planning I had to do at this stage. I really wasn't prepared for this when I set out to start ply lining and carpeting.

You can see all the cables going to the rear panel here:


187 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
It was around this time that I started spending an inordinate amount of time driving around, music off, listening to noises coming from the engine and transmission.

My mech skills are very limited so, after my failed attempts at DIY, I took it in to Dr V Dub in Southsea.

What a cool guy. He specialises in restoring old split screens, bugs etc but takes work on later models as well.

He did cambelt, water pump, tensioner, some suspension bushes, gearbox mount (was fubared). aux tensioner, aux belt and some other little bits.

Shortly after, it went to Briggs Motors, a gearbox specialist in Fareham to have clutch, DMF and a gearbox strip and new bearings.

Since then, it's had ball joints done and some other little bits.

A total cost of about £2000 in mechanical work so far but it's running sweet now. I feel like I'm paying for work the previous owner should have had done but I'm in it for the long haul so it's not the end of the world. At least I know it's all been done now.

It just needs the rear part of the exhaust replacing and a new O/S engine mount now.

Back to the fun stuff....!

187 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
We fitted the panels using the small slit and stainless screw method that's been covered on here a few times. Apart from a couple I messed up, they are nearly impossible to find again. If you're worried about visible screws, this is the way to go.

Top tip here: Buy yourself some "self-drilling, self-tapping, stainless screws" from ebay. They are amazing. You just offer them up and them in without having to drill a pilot hole with a, probably blunt, drill bit and then try and find it again to get the screw into it.

Here is where we are at:

Next was the floor!

After fixing all the rust from the previous screws, I really didn't want to screw the floor through the floor pan. However, being a LWB, I couldn't cut a single piece floor and wanted it fixed down firmly to prevent the different pieces being uneven and creating ridges.

In the end, I decided to sikaflex 15mm batons to the floor pan and screw into those. This cost me some headroom but gave me a space to run wires and put insulation.

So, a bit of this:

And a lot of this:

Gave us this:

I had a hard time getting the long pieces of baton to stay flat so either the ridges on the floor are uneven or the floor is warped. I ended up cutting lots of smaller pieces so I could get them flat enough to glue down without one end being in the air.

These little pieces of baton made it really hard to cut out the insulation. I've seen pictures of other people's and they just laid strips along at intervals which just didn't work for me.

We then used the old floor to mark up the new pieces of 12mm ply (it took 2), moving the join at the front to the rear but keeping the one down the O/S as it was.

Remember, before using power tools, always bubble wrap something to make yourself feel safer. Anything will do - I used an old chair.

The cutting, putting it into the van, taking it out, cutting it again etc went on for about an hour after we thought we'd finished but we got there in the end.

Then, after careful measuring, we secured it into the batons with stainless self tappers.

Lastly (but not least - it took 2 evenings) we fitted a piece of wood effect altro floor, leaving us with this:

One word of warning: Don't be tempted to use cheap alternatives to Sikaflex. I used some rubbish stuff to do the small rear piece when the sikaflex ran out. It isn't permanently flexible like sikaflex and, when I came to screw it down a couple of weeks later (I ran out of screws at the time), the batons had all broken free. Presumably, they hadn't been able to flex when we walked on them and just cracked away from the floor.

187 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
(The next post covers a span of 2-3 weeks where I completely took over the living room. During this period, it felt like I had half the van taken apart and stacked around the flat. Between panels, glove compartments, hardboard, pva glue and material, there was hardly anywhere for us to sit.)

The next thing on the list is the roof lining. The van didn't come with any original panels so I had nothing to use for templates. As already mentioned, I wanted two separate light circuits: one for main lighting and another for mood lighting.

Ideally, I wanted to fit the roof lining without any (or many) visible fixings. I thought about holding out for a set of templates and using MVM roof clips but, in the end, I went a different route.

A single piece roof was unlikely given the size of the LWB (same problem as the floor), so I got my pen and paper out and got creative.

Here is the plan:

It's 4 separate pieces for the sides and a single long piece for the middle.

The piece in the middle will contain the main lighting and the mood lighting will run down either side.

I decided on using 6 IKEA dioders for the main lighting. I bought 2 packs of 4 and used the remaining two in the tailgate and wired them to come on when it opens and have their own switch to turn them off if required. (See the picture in my previous post.)

I used hardboard instead of ply after reading numerous debates on here about the two. B&Q offer a free cutting service came in really handy. We thought you only got 2 free cuts per sheet so we sat in the isle at B&Q for nearly an hour trying to draw up a cutting plan that would maximise our "cuts for money". When we finally finished, we took it up to the counter and found out that your first 20 cuts are free anyway. Oh well!

The strip down the middle would be too long to cut from a single sheet so I got 4 smaller pieces and laminated them together in two rows (like bricks) with PVA glue. I didn't have any clamps so I laid them down behind my sofa and piled nearly everything I owned on top of them until the morning.

The result was a really long, bendy, wibble board type affair.

We took it out to the van and marked up the position of the roof supports. The idea is to mount the IKEA lights over the roof supports and then fix the strip to the roof with screws, hidden behind the lights.

Next, I ordered some 3mm scrim foam from eBay and applied it to all of the panels (the 4 side panels and my big centre piece).

My ultimate plan is to upholster the front seats and the rock'n'roll bed myself using vinyl. I've even ordered samples and have picked the colours I want. I was therefore going to cover the centre strip in teal blue vinyl so it will match the seats in the future.

However, I'd need 3m of vinyl for the strip and, with delivery, it worked out at 60 quid!!

So, I ordered some cheaper "chenille" type fabric from eBay. It turned out much greener than I expected but it's kind of cool. I might replace it eventually though.

Then, we mounted the dioders...

I cut the transformer off and wired all 6 lights in parallel. Tip: Keep the transformer in your tool box because it comes in really useful for testing 12v circuits inside. (The brown wire is positive, the blue one negative, confusingly. I just crimped some quick disconnects to the wires.)

Here's the lights on inside:

I decided that I'd cover the roof panels down either side of the centre strip with a dark grey faux suede and that I'd also use it for the cab head lining.

For the cab head lining, I removed all of the existing foam with a scraper (it took about 2 hours...). The old foam absolutely stunk so I'm glad I got rid of it. I recovered it with scrim foam and then the suede.

I did the same for the roof panels too but I don't have any pictures of those being done.

For the mood lights, I used a pack of 10 15mm "MiniSun" LEDs from ebay because they were only 20mm tall (as opposed to most cabinet LEDs which are too tall to fit in the roof recess...).

I wired all 10 lights up on my living room floor which was pretty fiddly. However, to fit them into the van, the completed circuit needed to be split into 4 (a piece on each panel). This was SO confusing. Each panel had either 2 or 3 lights on with 3-5 wires coming out with quick disconnects on so they could be connected up in the van.

Here's the wiring on two of the panels

We were now ready to fit the side strips to the van. To keep the visible fixings on show at a minimum, I ran industrial velcro down each side of the roof and down the side of the roof panels.

The inner edges of the panels were fixed with screws because these would later be covered by the centre strip.

This worked but the panels didn't conform to the shape of the roof. Reluctantly, I had to put a screw in the middle of each side strip panel to make it fit the curve of the roof. I'll cover these with screw caps later.

Then, the first light reveal:


My only criticism of the lights is that, compared to the warm glow of the dioders, they feel a bit cold. I wonder if I can colour the plastic lenses some how to "warm" them up a bit?

Next was the centre strip:

Hiding the screws behind the dioders worked a treat. We just needed a couple of screws at the very front and rear which will need screw caps when I get around to it.

I still need to cover and fit the thin divider strip between the side pieces of the roof panels but it's looking good!

187 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Replaced the sliding door runners. What a great job that was? I:

I was smashing the bottom bolts with an impact driver until my hands blistered before they finally let go.

The door feels so much better now. Although, we still need to slam it to close it fully. Is that normal? I've seen people close van doors (newer vans, admittedly) by just letting it slide almost unassisted.

Also did the filters.

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