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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,

So...

Blue smoke on start up :eek: and only on hard acceleration once warmed up, but otherwise sounding and running well.. Any ideas on where best to start to resolve problem. The vans (T4, 2.5TDI, ACV) done nearly 300k and other than regular fluid/filter changes he's been a bit neglected whilst i've been rebuilding my bug. But it's defo time for some TLC.

I'm going to give it a service on the weekend and change oil, filters and glow plugs. I've found a split in the high pressure turbo hose and the EGR blanking plate had a hole worn through and the EGR connecting pipe is full of crud.



The van is already in service position and i've taken a few bits off already, any advice on which bits to clean and which bits to service or replace? I don't have the kit to remove the engine so i'll have to work on the van in place .

I'd be really grateful on advice on parts to replace (gaskets?, injectors? sensors? etc) and if and how I should clean the engine and which bits of it do I tackle??

I had a wee peek down the ports and it's filthy in there!






Mucho thanks for any advice and tips x
 

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I have an AJT with over 300K on it.

First job was to completely remove the EGR system, blank everything off and fit an Allard EGR delete kit

Then I ripped the airbox out and fitted a K&N induction kit. People will tell you all sorts of bobbins about induction kits but in 30 years or more of mucking about with cars, vans and motorbikes I've never yet had one that caused any problems. Personally I prefer ones with cotton and gauze filters (such as K&N or Green) because foam filters (like ITG or PiperCross) break down over time and get ingested into the engine.

Both the above mods will allow the engine to breath properly and are relatively cheap and easy to accomplish yourself. Whether they release any more ponies or improve fuel efficiency or not is open to question, but neither will do harm

But the biggest benefit came a couple of weeks ago in fitting a set of Rake's PP0.5 Project Power injectors - no smoke on startup (once the idle was corrected), definitely more power and torque, and quite possibly better fuel economy as well but the jury's still out on that one.
 

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What injectors did you have before - I have PP1 - Bosches and just failed MOT on emissions 1.6 instead of 0.8

I've bunged a load of RHINO in, the EGR has been off for a few years - since the new injectors,

The intake manifold could do with a clean to get the last of the cack out.

Is it worth leaving the air filter out for the test?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the great advice dude. I've contacted Rake's for the injectors. I'm gonna take your advice on the Allard kit and the Induction kit. Do I need to buy any additional parts to do these jobs and are they straight forward? Cheers man.

Any suggestions on where to get the Induction kit at a good price?

Thanks again dude
 

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What injectors did you have before - I have PP1 - Bosches and just failed MOT on emissions 1.6 instead of 0.8

I've bunged a load of RHINO in, the EGR has been off for a few years - since the new injectors,

The intake manifold could do with a clean to get the last of the cack out.

Is it worth leaving the air filter out for the test?
The van had it's original Stanadynes in, it was smokier than a Whitby kipper shed.

I can't think that leaving the air filter off will help, but emissions can be down to a number of things, not just the injectors - worn rings or valve guides, turbo oil seals leaking, overfuelling (idle/timing out of adjustment)....

If you cover the emissions standard box on the VIN plate with piece of black tape (so that the tester can't see the required standard), they have to put it through to the lowest possible standard....
 

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One downside to induction kits....
I had to drive through some VERY heavy rain in Poland.
The water vapour got through the filter and onto the MAF.
Meant I was in "limp mode" every 15 mins or so...
Stop, wait for the engine heat to dry the MAF/pipework, and carry on...for another 15 mins!

I was only going to Poland as my Polish lodger "knew some guys" who could my smoking issues out....and they did (simple O-Ring or something in the pump....50p part, cost me a fortune driving there and back....but no one here had a clue!)
Anyway, they also said the induction kits were bad for these vans, as where the air filter sits (next to the side grill) they suffer from lots of moisture!
Put the standard one back in, and can't say I noticed ANY loss in performance, just the lack of hearing the turbo while!
 

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Few things I did when we got the T4 ACV with 200,000miles on the clock. I've done some small DIY on it and engine improved noticeably. Everything is stock. This is what I did:

Replaced all the braided vacuum hoses (yours look shot as you can see the braids fraying in multiple places) with 3mm inner diameter silicone hoses (cheap on eBay). 5m should be plenty to replace all of them. Just replace one by one: remove the old braided hose, measure & cut the silicone hose and replace to avoid mixing up the vacuum circuit. Hissing in the cab diminished noticeably.

Also replaced the vacuum filter (there is one!), which should be hiding behind the coolant reservoir. It looks like a small in-line fuel filter. Follow one of the braided vacuum hoses around there and you would fine one with the filter on the end.

Then cleaned MAF sensor with electric contact cleaner / MAF spray. Then used kitchen towel with a bit of brake cleaner to clean all the plastic and rubber intake and inter-cooler hoses. Lots of black gunk that you see inside your intake manifold.

Same process for EGR (I removed it for better cleaning). Liberal use of brake cleaner and kitchen towel / wire brush / old tooth brush. I wanted to do the same for the intake and exhaust manifolds, as well as the turbo but I just didn't have the time, skill and confidence to tackle the bolts that are hidden behind the engine to remove them. I've done all these on my old Audi A4, which was soooooooo easy to remove all the components, including taking the turbo apart to clean up the vanes.

If you are competent in removing those components, then tuck in and get rid of as much black oily gunk as you can from all the components.

By upgrading to silicone hose + new vacuum filter, cleaning out MAF sensor, EGR and intake pipes/hoses, the engine was working much better and efficiency improved much better. I was hitting 270miles to half a tank pre-clean and improved to consistent 400miles per half tank since then.
 

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There are products out there that claims to clean engine in situ, such as Terra Clean. Some DIY hackers rave about oven clearner into turbo, but there are numbers of failed attempt and even worse a blown turbo for doing it wrong. So I wouldn't recommend a dodgy hack.

I never used those "in situ" engine cleaner and quite frankly I'm not a believer for any product that cost £200-300 and claiming to clean engine "in situ" by simply injecting something into it. The fact that I've experienced how hard it is to get rid of those black oily gunk with lots of elbow grease, I just can't see how they would shift by injecting a chemical and letting the engine run for a while, and somehow dissolves and escape into the air through the exhaust. To me it sounds very much like a snake oil.

A simple manual clean helps massively. But given the mileage on yours, perhaps a whole hog engine rebuild could be worth (it's your call if that's worth the investment for your money to keep the van going).

Good luck!
 

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Ok last post from me...

EGR blanking or aftermarket EGR delete pipe: word of caution. If EGR component was fitted at factory and is not present (i.e. blanking place obviously visible or completely removed) at the next MOT inspection, there's a risk of instant fail and the vehicle cannot be removed from the inspection garage (Major fault) until rectified (new MOT in effect since May 2018).

So far, no one with Allard or EGR blanking plate seem to have reported such fail since the new MOT regulation, but it's a risk to consider. I know the other changes on the new MOT affected "de-cat" vans (catalytic converter should be present if fitted at factory, which can be detected by VIN number, apparently), and have caused fellow owners some nightmare.

So I'd clean the EGR, and put it back in as it should have been when it came out of the factory.

Just in case you weren't aware of the changes in MOT inspection since May 2018...
 

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"Quality" blanking plates for the EGR look no different to a gasket....so basically undetectable.
Poor quality ones are maybe the wrong size, and so stand out like my thumb (sore after dis-locating it!)
 

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Few things I did when we got the T4 ACV with 200,000miles on the clock. I've done some small DIY on it and engine improved noticeably. Everything is stock. This is what I did:
did you clean the I/C out as well cheeseface ? you didnt mention this. prob negligible benefit, unless really bad (and that could be bad news) but easy enough to do, not done it but ive read/ heard acetone is the stuff to use.
 

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did you clean the I/C out as well cheeseface ? you didnt mention this. prob negligible benefit, unless really bad (and that could be bad news) but easy enough to do, not done it but ive read/ heard acetone is the stuff to use.

I don't think I have, as I wasn't sure if it can be cleaned out with brake cleaner. The rubber hose leading into and out from the I/C was only "moist" with oil so I thought bettner not agitate anything if it's not dripping with oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for all the advice and help dudes, so I've slowly had 'mission creep' and more things have been coming off!





Also, I think the rad has had it!



So far I'm replacing /swapping the:
glow plugs and wiring loom (totally frayed at 2 plugs)
vacuum pipes (with silicone pipes)
Vacuum filter
Air, fuel and oil filter and oil
Air induction kit (K & N)
EGR delete kit
Injectors (Project power 1.0, will remap afterwards)
Radiator
High pressure turbo hose (split)
Alternator belt (had got very baggy)

Can anyone think of anything else I should change/clean whilst all the bits are out? Any gaskets etc worth doing?

Cheers dudes
 

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You know its a big job when all your spanners are out.

My only advise would be to replace as many gaskets and seals as possible
 

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Discussion Starter #18
You know its a big job when all your spanners are out.

My only advise would be to replace as many gaskets and seals as possible
Ha ha, you know it!

Do you know which gaskets I can get to at current state of dismantle?

Cheers.
 

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Does anyone know if a clean EGR actually helps for the MOT. Mine went MIA years ago but I'm in MOT - Plate-Value purgatory ATM.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
So the PP 1 injectors have arrived (thanks Rake) :) and I'm just about ready to swap them in. I've removed the fuel lines, leak-off hoses and injector clamps (eventually after one sheared allen key:eek:).



Have not attempted to remove the injectors yet but thought I'd see if anybody has any good tips/techniques for a stress free removal? Or any warnings of things to avoid/watch out for. Don't think my carpal tunnel wrists can take much more wrestling!





Thanks for all the advice so far everyone, it's been a massive help A:
 
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