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Discussion Starter #1
hi guys/girls,

took my van out for its maiden voyage (a short 8 mile trip) to make sure everything was ok before i drive it about 50 to go and get it remapped. when i got back there was a distinct smell of burning and it didn't take long to realise it was the rear o/s brake that was red hot. while its been in the garage i replaced all the brake callipers, discs, hoses and pads. so not sure why this has happened?

has anyone got any ideas why and any solutions to fix the problem before wednesday!!!

all replies much appreciated!

Cheers

wadey.:*
 

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There are sliding pins on the calipers.

Take these off, one set at a time, and polish, if not too pitted, with a cream chrome polish such as Solvol Autosol.


Clean all the polish off with petrol or thinners, just a bit on a rag will do.

Dry thoroughly and apply copper grease.

Ensure you do not contaminate the little rubber covers.

Examine the pistons that they are not corroded.

As the pads wear more of the piston is exposed, these need to move too of course.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks for the reply guys!

the brakes are re-cons from GSF car parts. so basically new.
i will have a look at these sliding pins. have you got any photos of them??

definitely need some more copper grease

Cheers guys
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thats a good point,

i did tighten it up so it only clicks once.

would that cause just the one side to bind??

A:
 

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Totally disagree with copper grease, really really really bad idea.

Use high temp silicone grease, red rubber grease, ceratec or any other properly rated grease for the application and temps involved.

Ive seen so many stuffed up jammed slide pins and calipers due to copper grease.

It beggars asking but make sure the garage wound the calipers back properly, then as mentioned reset the handbrake levers and checked the handbrake adjustment.
 

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Copper grease is fine as an anti sieze for threads. I used to use this on the sliders before but they seized in between tyre changes for a new season.
I now use a white ceramic grease.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Awesome, thanks for all your replays!

No garage has got involved as yet (apart from fitting the timing belts) so tonight I will strip the brakes down and sort the rods and slacken off the handbrake again a bit.

I will let you all know how it goes!

Cheers all! T:
 

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One method is to get both back wheels off ground safely, draw lever up 3 or 4 clicks and adjust until the wheels are gripped both sides, and spin freely when the handbrake is released.

What will often happen with old calipers is both wheels wont grip at the same point, but if everythings right with the slide pins and new or recon calipers, and both cables are fine, then it should take up evenly.

When off you should see both levers on the rear calipers fully return to their stops, and the rubber boots on the cables intact. The boots can split and water and corrosion can enter the bowden cables sticking them, or the return springs weaken, but again the springs should be fine on new or recon calipers.
 

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Quote:

"Totally disagree with copper grease, really really really bad idea."

Will take this advice on board. It was given in good faith and have used it for years.

Off to buy some white ceramic grease/high temp silicone grease/red rubber grease.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
ok,

seems that the problem is to do with the handbrake... wheel runs fine then if i apply the handbrake it locks on and the cable doesn't return hence it staying tight to the pads.

anyone else had this problem???

cheers people.

:*
 

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20 - 30 yers ago it was considered good practice but time and knowledge move on, some people havent :) I used to use it long ago myself

I recently used ceratec on some lucas rears on my brothers astra, its been fine since. Cleaned a load of blackened grease and old copper grease out of the pins.
 

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ok,

seems that the problem is to do with the handbrake... wheel runs fine then if i apply the handbrake it locks on and the cable doesn't return hence it staying tight to the pads.

anyone else had this problem???

cheers people.

:*
Is the lever returning to its stop as I previously mentioned???

As I said in my previous post.

Weak return spring.
Bad handbrake cable due to corrosion or dirt ingress.

Could also be :

Knackered internal drive thread inside the caliper if you didnt use a wind back tool to compress the piston.
Sticking piston due to damaged or displaced seal.
 
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