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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My van was sitting too low :cool: after fitting a set of higher profile 45 tyres which replaced the original 40 profiles so started rubbing when i carried any weight so i fitted in a couple of additional "spacers" which gave me another few mill height without ruining the slammed look! :cool:

Here's a qucik guide which might help someone remove and replace their springs



IMPORTANT- ALTHOUGH THIS IS ONE OF THE EASIER THINGS TO DO ON A T4 IT CAN GO HORRIBLY WRONG- YOU MUST HAVE VAN ON A FLAT SURFACE, USE AXLE STANDS AND CHOCK OFF YOUR OTHER WHEELS TO STOP IT ROLLING OFF STANDS!!!!!!

WATCH OUT FOR SPRINGS UNDER TENSION AND KEEP YOUR HANDS/ HEAD/ BODY CLEAR OF THE VAN JUST IN CASE- NO NEED TO BE UNDER VAN FOR THIS JOB!




I Jacked the van up as high as i could, and put 3 axle stands around at the same height to make sure van didnt move.

Make sure you put stands at jacking point/ reinforced load bearing points (such as chassis members)- NOT on the swingarm- this has to move freely (i did remove the jack shown here- honest!)->







I then chocked off the front wheels.

I suggest only doing one wheel at a time..I:I:

Take off your wheel and locate the 17mmnut fixing the bottom of the gas strut/ shock absorber-
HERE->








Undo it and this should happen (the swingarm will drop down and spring should pop out pretty easily)..
->




If it doesnt, you might not have the van high enough on the stands or something is restricting the swingarm from moving down......





Make sure the bump stop hasnt popped off (black dome shaped bit of rubber on spring mounting point).
Note the spring plate shown- springs sit in a notched groove in this which gives some protection to metal underside of bottom of van body.
Replacement springs should be put back on in reverse order that originals taken off.









I found it easier to put a jack under the swingarm and hold the spring up towards the van underside while jacking slowly to raise the swingarm up to lock the spring in place.
Dont jack it up too far just enough to stop the spring jumping out again which lets you slide the spacer plate round to sit the spring in the notch AND- you still need to relocate the gas strut!
Move the strut over to locate the hole on swingarm and jack up the swingarm again just enough to start compressing the shocker- it will make fitting and tightening the nut and rubber removed in first step just that bit easier T:








TIGHTEN EVERYTHING UP PROPERLY AND FIT WHEEL, ENSURING ALL NUTS ARE TORQUED UP PROPERLY

Once the van is off the stands and safely onto the wheel- do the other side- EASY!! T:

i took it for a test drive and re-checked all the nuts bolts etc just to be sure..

Hope this helps.
 

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Just done mine - very easy to do apart from the fiddle of aligning the top of the spring in the plate!

Only difference I found was the bolt at the bottom of the shock was a 16mm T:
 

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just got mine today GMAX -55mm im going for it tomoz and also cleaning and soaking my front torsion bar treads up, 10mm = 25mm drop rule in mind, ill take some pics *<:)>
 

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Good guide... Pretty much knew what i needed to do, but good to have a reference:)

I was able to replace the springs without the use of a jack underneath the swing arm... not sure if that is a good thing or not tbh, nonetheless job done.... thanks
 

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im doing mine tommrow.. it sounds easy enough lol ive tuck the front up with the tousion bars aNnd springs next hope for the smoother rideT: ill put pics of before and after ............................ thanks for the easy dtep by step guide
 

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great thread mate, hope to do mine soon. can I ask a daft question do you support the swing arm with the jack and then lower it smoothly to get the spring out? or do you just support it with your hand to drop it down and just use the jack to move it back up into place...?

Cheers,

Geo
I used jack to lower down and jack to bring back to top smoothly whlst i could get shocker bolt hole lined up (i used the one at the top of the munt and not at the bottom as it was easier to get to with the tools i had) T:
 

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thanks for the reply dude, got them done last weekend and manged to get the bottom bolt out the shocker and the nearside one dropped a treat spring popped out and new one in... but the offside was a different story it just wouldn't drop for love nor money but just when I was about to call it a day I got the trolley-jack handle wedged in-between the spring and levered it and the swing arm dropped had to wrestle withe srping to get it out as it was stuck solid but all looking good now. just to drop the front.
 

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Good pics and sounds easy if you can get the bolt of the shocker, mine spins and no were to grip it! grips may damage the shocker any tips? Ron.
 

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Hi, just came across your thread, am in the same situation, changing to 45's from 40's, not sure which springs are on now but changing shocks and wondered what size spring you put on to keep the lowered look but functional. Did it make a better ride with the tyre changes? Tired of punctures from potholes!!
 

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HELP!! Just done my front torsion bars in about 30 mins, rear shocks a different story. As per previous conversation the bottom rear bolts are just spinning the shock, tried mole grips and worried about damaging the shock. Have I read this correctly and the advice is to undo the top bolt and get the new springs on this way?

In addition am I likely to have done any damage to the shocks whilst trying to undo the bolts and is it worth getting some new ones.

Thanks, sat here gently rocking!

Matthsy:hsy:
 

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HELP!! Just done my front torsion bars in about 30 mins, rear shocks a different story. As per previous conversation the bottom rear bolts are just spinning the shock, tried mole grips and worried about damaging the shock. Have I read this correctly and the advice is to undo the top bolt and get the new springs on this way?

In addition am I likely to have done any damage to the shocks whilst trying to undo the bolts and is it worth getting some new ones.

Thanks, sat here gently rocking!

Matthsy:hsy:
This is kind of difficult to explain, but what I did was wind a wheel bolt between the bottom of the shock and the swing arm. That was just enough to stop the shock from spinning T:
 
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